Engine build

Harbin_22

Active member
Dec 4, 2010
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Southern Indiana
I had the moroso deal plumbed into the exhaust. It was ok until this built motor. It has more blow by than the other motors. It was ok until started to see bigger boost. It would blow the dipstick out every time I went WOT.
 

moparkxracer

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2010
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Out and about
Did you put a pressure gauge in the crank case? Would be interesting to see how much pressure it takes to lift the dip stick, as well as how much it takes to blow a front or rear main seal.

I had the moroso deal plumbed into the exhaust. It was ok until this built motor. It has more blow by than the other motors. It was ok until started to see bigger boost. It would blow the dipstick out every time I went WOT.
 

rickaveryjr

Member
Nov 29, 2012
48
0
6
CT
I had the moroso deal plumbed into the exhaust. It was ok until this built motor. It has more blow by than the other motors. It was ok until started to see bigger boost. It would blow the dipstick out every time I went WOT.

you're not the only one blowing the dipstick out. A good friend have an almost identical setup on his lmm with the exception of an AF cam and fingers pistons. it started blowing the dipstick out and showering the engine bay with oil every time the pedal went to the floor. we didnt check crankcase pressures. motor has been pulled to get an AF cam and get the forged pistons out.
 

rickaveryjr

Member
Nov 29, 2012
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0
6
CT
the one im talking about was built by socal in 2012. im confident is was assembled properly. i think in this case its just several hard miles on forged pistons with multiple people behind the wheel having their fun.
 

POWER Freak

New member
Nov 20, 2008
46
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Idaho
I ran a GT5541R over a GT4094R on my old Cummins and it would push some oil past the o-ring on the oil cap. It was a fresh motor but it did it even after break in. I figured it was just life with triple digit boost numbers...
 

MAXX IT OUT

<<<IT WORKS
Mar 1, 2013
1,774
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Des Moines, Iowa
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Here is what I am using instead of a pump. This Evac fittings weld into the exhaust. Vaccum is created to suck out crankcase pressures. It pulls up to 3 lbs of vacuum.
How well does this work and where did you get the fitting? Is it better to us a one way check valve in this situation? I am looking at doing it to a buddys 13 cummins since i rerouted his CCV and he is complaning about the smell. If it works good, i may do it to mine.
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
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Quncy, Fl
The fittings came from Summit Racing. They are all stainless and made by Vibrant. They will work well. You shouldn't have anymore smells getting into the can. I don't believe a check valve will help any. It would probably restrict flow.
 

Harbin_22

Active member
Dec 4, 2010
3,858
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38
Southern Indiana
Does it matter where the fitting is plumbed in? Like how far from the turbo or after a bend? My engine was built a little on the loose side this go around. I think I had .008 ptw and .028 ring gap. I figure that is what is causing the higher blow by. Not a clue on the wall finish. Motor still only has about 3,500 miles on it. Maybe it will get better lol
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
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Quncy, Fl
You are runing a single turbo? I would place the fittings in the exhaust down by the tranny line area myself. I run triples and that is where mine are. Easy to get to and far enough away from the higher heats too.
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
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Quncy, Fl
So that you don't have a restriction from enough possible volume. Built motors do have a tendency to breathe more than stock motors. This is one of those items that you couldn't over do it in my opinion. Of course, not many address this anyways.