Considering DD'ing 350k mile LB7?

fl0w3n

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Jan 8, 2015
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According to this picture it looks like even bank has the feed line to the rear of the motor and odd bank has it to the front, so my rail is backwards. Doh .

30.jpg
 

fl0w3n

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Jan 8, 2015
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That’s a great idea. I do like to get things right and factory as I can, but I just rushed into the disassembly on this one and didn’t plan well enough.

I guess there’s always next time :thumb:
 

fl0w3n

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Jan 8, 2015
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There’s a stud and a bolt hole on top of the Y-bridge ... I don’t remember what it’s for.

Anyone know what I’m talking about?
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
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That looks like a LBZ FPR on there. Just a heads up: you're going to have a heck of a time getting that plugged in. I usually plug the connector in then install the banjo bolt to the return line.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
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That looks like a LBZ FPR on there. Just a heads up: you're going to have a heck of a time getting that plugged in. I usually plug the connector in then install the banjo bolt to the return line.

Yep. I wound up bending my line to get it in there. Took me a while. I don’t recommend that route tho
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Damn, that reminds me how much I like the lly fuel system over the lb7. Seemed like there was fricken hard lines everywhere on the lb7
 

fl0w3n

Active member
Jan 8, 2015
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That looks like a LBZ FPR on there. Just a heads up: you're going to have a heck of a time getting that plugged in. I usually plug the connector in then install the banjo bolt to the return line.

Yeah... I was just looking at that thinking what the hell.

I think I remember reading about trimming the plastic on the harness to help?

I already tightened the banjo bolt, maybe I can take the FPR out and plug it in then reinstall the FPR?
 

DAVe3283

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Sep 3, 2009
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Damn, that reminds me how much I like the lly fuel system over the lb7. Seemed like there was fricken hard lines everywhere on the lb7
The stock return setup was very... Japanese. I threw it all away and made my own hard line return setup and it's like 5x simpler.
Yeah... I was just looking at that thinking what the hell.

I think I remember reading about trimming the plastic on the harness to help?

I already tightened the banjo bolt, maybe I can take the FPR out and plug it in then reinstall the FPR?
I think that could work. You'll figure it out, one way or another.
 

fl0w3n

Active member
Jan 8, 2015
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The stock return setup was very... Japanese. I threw it all away and made my own hard line return setup and it's like 5x simpler.

I think that could work. You'll figure it out, one way or another.

Pulled the FPR out, plugged it in, trimmed the connector, and got it back together. I used my tool that I made from the first time I replaced the FPR with everything still in place other than AC.

Then I went ahead and cross threaded the FICM :mad:
Spent 20 min un-gaking that.

I also want to replace the whole wiring harness, mine is the type that has the hard plastic shroud for the whole center, and a lot of the looms have fallen apart and I wouldn’t doubt if I’ve got some wire knicks, and a few of the connectors are missing the rubber boot that seals it.
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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I got rid of that crappy plastic part on the harness on mine. Ended up retaping most of it. Got more flexibility and length for a lot of the connectors from that too
 

DAVe3283

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Sep 3, 2009
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Boise, ID, USA
On my built motor I removed the plastic raceway due to it being brittle and not fitting with my new turbo/intake setup. On my Suburban I kept it stock. I didn't notice any wire chafing or anything on either motor when I went through the harnesses.