I ran one but not on the front. They are noisy but they work. I put one In a 7.5 10 bolt, didn't break the powetrax, just destroyed that tiny rear
Cons of front locker drag racing
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I ran one but not on the front. They are noisy but they work. I put one In a 7.5 10 bolt, didn't break the powetrax, just destroyed that tiny rear
I can get over noise for sure as long as it goes straight. We might get it dialed in where i dont need it but as far as right now it pulls one way pretty much every launch.
That won't keep you off the wall any better than welding it.
Old man's truck has them front and rear, only reason you can steer it is because the hubs unlock. They are extremely finicky, and barely any throttle input around a corner results in mild bucking at best :rofl: It's a 4spd too
They are cheap, and work. But less desirable than even a classic Detroit locker IMO
No, those “lunch box” lockers are no different than any other locker other than the packaging. The fact is, the front two axles become locked under power, you break an axle, all the power goes to the unbroken axle.
Limited slip is the best way to go and the truetrac is the strongest of the limited skips that don’t have wear items inside.
This does not pertain to you Jesse but running an auto locker in the front and disconnecting the slide collar up there will cause the locker to “ratchet” horribly as soon as you start to drive. The locker unlocks as the ring gear is not driving it and it starts ratcheting. I know this first hand as I have a locker in the front of my tracker. Left a hub locked forgetting to unlock and it had my mind racing pretty damn fast to figure out what the racket was under the hood. If we had selectable hubs, this would be a non issue.
If you can run upgrades axle shafts and rcv cv axles, I would say welded it/lock it all day as the potential to break a shaft would be low. The ring and Pinion would be the next thing to break
Limited slip is the best way to go and the truetrac is the strongest of the limited skips that don’t have wear items inside.
This does not pertain to you Jesse but running an auto locker in the front and disconnecting the slide collar up there will cause the locker to “ratchet” horribly as soon as you start to drive. The locker unlocks as the ring gear is not driving it and it starts ratcheting. I know this first hand as I have a locker in the front of my tracker. Left a hub locked forgetting to unlock and it had my mind racing pretty damn fast to figure out what the racket was under the hood. If we had selectable hubs, this would be a non issue.
If you can run upgrades axle shafts and rcv cv axles, I would say welded it/lock it all day as the potential to break a shaft would be low. The ring and Pinion would be the next thing to break
I took my chances. If you break an axle front or rear you risk hitting the wall. That's part of racing. I made 200 passes on my elocker with no problems. Not saying it's perfect but when I would launch it went perfectly straight unless it wheel hopped. Any other locker would prob act the same.
I’m kinda with you. You break a rear axle half way down the strip, you are changing lanes or hitting the wall. Most high hp guys are running rear spools. Now granted the rear end is much stronger than the front
Good info, I'm not dead set on locking it up. If a limited slip will help the launch and not put me into the wall then that's all I need. I'd weld it all day if it wasnt for the turning issue. Were gonna have 1 maybe 2 track days left this year were gonna flog it with the billet 76 upgrade which should put me well over 800 hp. And have the super stick worked over zf6. If we dont get it launching a little better by then, this winter i would like to add some help up front.
Well the rear is welded i could probably blow out a tire and smoke the wall like that anyway. Ill have to get a few more opinions l really like the idea of the e locker, I think if I break the front end it's gonna be launching anyway more so than down track aftrr I'm moving alot faster.
Lockers
I would run it open in the front. I ran a ARB in mine and broke everything you could break! You think it pulls now, put a locker in there. I thought the same as you that it would help but the opposite happens. Keep the front from coming up and keep the driveline angles strait and it will work just fine. I'm not sure what wheels you run but they play a big part in the front also.
I would run it open in the front. I ran a ARB in mine and broke everything you could break! You think it pulls now, put a locker in there. I thought the same as you that it would help but the opposite happens. Keep the front from coming up and keep the driveline angles strait and it will work just fine. I'm not sure what wheels you run but they play a big part in the front also.
I never broke anything but I also wasn't making the power you all were making. Plus I wasn't leaving on the Rev limiter and dumping the clutch. The shock from that will break stuff fast.
Held 8 passes the other night with probably 6 sub 1.7 60 foot. Average 60 was like 1.660. Then dipped into the 1.5s. I know that if rather have both fronts spin under power than have it spin one and switch to the other under power. I think I'm more likely to break something with the front end switching back and fourth and having to countersteer under power than equally spinning both fronts.
actually, the opposite is true. its how it works in the off road world. you lack traction right now so the moment one tire spins, all the power runs to it and the other gets nothing. then it starts to catch again and the other tire looses traction so power runs to it and back and forth you go till traction equalizes. in the case of a locker, both tires are going to be driving at all times which increases traction. the moment one tire has less grip than the other, the tire with traction now gains an increase in load and that load can increase quit of bit should there be any hop in the front end. shock load really kills parts. ive watched guys in these trackers have an open front end and absolutely wood it trying to make a climb where the hill twists the suspension up. the tire that starts spinning in the air will be going wildly till it can hit the other mound in front of it and the other side gives up. they dont break axles. now you throw a locker in the front and while you can now go slower up the hill with more traction, if you try to wood it, you will snap a cv in quick order cause its too much on the loaded tire.
hope that makes sense.
honestly, before i dropped a grand on the front diff, id put some double adjustable shocks in place up there first. that will aid you in a big way with keeping front end traction.
Makes scents the plan is qa1s and torsion delete before I do and locker up front. Was kind of getting info together to see if I wanted to do it at all first.
has anyone on here put the true trac in the gm 9.25 ifs. I called just differentials they said that its only listed for the dodge 9.25. called another place that explained the true trac doesn't work in the ifs due to the fact there is no cut out for the retaining clip on the ifs shafts
That really doesn’t clarify much. Usually people ask a question when they need more info
