Coilovers!!

HDdave

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Nov 16, 2010
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I'm confused.....why would you replace lca's?

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The lower shock mounts on the DJM ones are actually welded on when the whole UCA is built. Just seems a lot stronger and would gimme a peace of mind.. But since theyre for the 3" drop I am not actually sure if it would work for the ride height I wanna go. I put a shit ton of miles on my truck so I just like to think added safety if I am gonna delete torsion bars..

I wasnt sure about the bolts on the shock mounts if they were 10.9's or not.. I'm out of it today :eek:
 

jmaz268

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May 20, 2010
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The lower shock mounts on the DJM ones are actually welded on when the whole UCA is built. Just seems a lot stronger and would gimme a peace of mind.. But since theyre for the 3" drop I am not actually sure if it would work for the ride height I wanna go. I put a shit ton of miles on my truck so I just like to think added safety if I am gonna delete torsion bars..

I wasnt sure about the bolts on the shock mounts if they were 10.9's or not.. I'm out of it today :eek:

They are welded on, but you can use a pair of pliers and squeeze the metal together..... trust me, I know first hand lol.
 

jmaz268

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You think? I mean the stock ones arent what I would call weak but idk.. Like I said I am just worried about how itll react to all that weight over 30 or 40k miles..

Yeah Used to have em.

If I was gonna DD mine I would box in the lower part of the OE mount and not think twice about it.:thumb: or make some out of thicker gauge.

As far as I know, Todd has got some miles on his and no issues. Unless he has had some and not reported in.
 

HDdave

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Nov 16, 2010
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Yeah Used to have em.

If I was gonna DD mine I would box in the lower part of the OE mount and not think twice about it.:thumb:

As far as I know, Todd has got some miles on his and no issues. Unless he has had some and not reported in.


Now there you go. I think boxing it would be a good idea :thumb: I have never seen the DJM off the truck before just on one and mounted up so I had not got to see the mount for being that flimsy.. I like how yours is lookin though man cant wait to see how it sits!

I am trying to keep mine a little higher off the ground so I've been doing a little math on some different sized ones. We will see I guess lol
 

jmaz268

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Now there you go. I think boxing it would be a good idea :thumb: I have never seen the DJM off the truck before just on one and mounted up so I had not got to see the mount for being that flimsy.. I like how yours is lookin though man cant wait to see how it sits!

I am trying to keep mine a little higher off the ground so I've been doing a little math on some different sized ones. We will see I guess lol

The DJMs are a bit deceiving. They look thick and rugged. But they also have a thick powdercoat on em while the oe motor is just painted, if it still has some on it lol. So they are thinner, and from I remember the weld isn't all the way around the mount.

I personally wouldn't use them in this application. Plus the CV angle that you will get from them with be pretty negative unless you use a really long shock. Don't think you would be able to use a 10" spring. Hard to say, never mocked and measured it when I them on.

For a DD (not on the ground) I would use a 12" spring with the DS/DD502 which is the poly mount, the bearing style will be noisy and result in a harsher ride. I personally would go for the single adjustables as they are cheaper.

Also a bit of FYI.......I asked Hyperco about custom springs and I got a pretty good chuckle.

for a 10" spring in 1000 or 1100 lbs rate.......brace yourself. $986 for 2 springs. Granted it would probably be cheaper if you ordered a bunch. But I was laughing to hard to ask how many more I would need to order to make it reasonably priced.

But you can get them lol.

Thanks man, looking forward to having it on the ground tomorrow.
 

HDdave

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Nov 16, 2010
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Ok, I was thinking the 401's myself, but like I said, I do want to keep the CV axles right at level. Basically the same height as torsion keys almost the whole way out. So you may be right that I am best going for a 12" spring.

Those prices are fckin insane tho man... Like wow. I dont even wanna know what a 12" spring would cost :roflmao:. Its just a plan for sometime in the future.. I wanna get dual fuelers first lol.

Def post up some pics with her on the ground though!
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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The DJMs are a bit deceiving. They look thick and rugged. But they also have a thick powdercoat on em while the oe motor is just painted, if it still has some on it lol. So they are thinner, and from I remember the weld isn't all the way around the mount.

I personally wouldn't use them in this application. Plus the CV angle that you will get from them with be pretty negative unless you use a really long shock. Don't think you would be able to use a 10" spring. Hard to say, never mocked and measured it when I them on.

For a DD (not on the ground) I would use a 12" spring with the DS/DD502 which is the poly mount, the bearing style will be noisy and result in a harsher ride. I personally would go for the single adjustables as they are cheaper.

Also a bit of FYI.......I asked Hyperco about custom springs and I got a pretty good chuckle.

for a 10" spring in 1000 or 1100 lbs rate.......brace yourself. $986 for 2 springs. Granted it would probably be cheaper if you ordered a bunch. But I was laughing to hard to ask how many more I would need to order to make it reasonably priced.

But you can get them lol.

Thanks man, looking forward to having it on the ground tomorrow.

Couple things.

JDM arms were never ment to have the full weight of the truck put on those shock tabs. while you can box the tabs or even put thicker ones on, the tubing was never designed to hold the load there and you will wind up folding those arms not long down the road. if your gunna use a tubular/ plated arm, it needs to be designed around a coilover.

Dont expect the bushing ends to last longer over the spherical bearings. the bushings are not big enough to last under the load of the front end and will eventually smash out. there isnt enough info on the QA1s yet to say which will last longer but IMOP, id go spherical bearings first.

Now i swore i found a 1100lbs spring before for a 2.0 coilover shock. ill have to do some hunting again. it was hard to find but it was only 100-150 each IIRC. i think it was even 12". that would be the ideal spring. I fear in a leveled truck, you will get coil bind with a 900lbs spring.
 

jmaz268

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May 20, 2010
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Ok, I was thinking the 401's myself, but like I said, I do want to keep the CV axles right at level. Basically the same height as torsion keys almost the whole way out. So you may be right that I am best going for a 12" spring.

Those prices are fckin insane tho man... Like wow. I dont even wanna know what a 12" spring would cost :roflmao:. Its just a plan for sometime in the future.. I wanna get dual fuelers first lol.

Def post up some pics with her on the ground though!

Normal 10-12" 2.5" id springs are pretty cheap....under 100 each.





Couple things.

JDM arms were never ment to have the full weight of the truck put on those shock tabs. while you can box the tabs or even put thicker ones on, the tubing was never designed to hold the load there and you will wind up folding those arms not long down the road. if your gunna use a tubular/ plated arm, it needs to be designed around a coilover.

Dont expect the bushing ends to last longer over the spherical bearings. the bushings are not big enough to last under the load of the front end and will eventually smash out. there isnt enough info on the QA1s yet to say which will last longer but IMOP, id go spherical bearings first.

Now i swore i found a 1100lbs spring before for a 2.0 coilover shock. ill have to do some hunting again. it was hard to find but it was only 100-150 each IIRC. i think it was even 12". that would be the ideal spring. I fear in a leveled truck, you will get coil bind with a 900lbs spring.

Oh yeah. I think the arms themselves would prob hold weight, they are pretty beefy and reinforced with 1/4" plate. I could just about guarantee the mount wont though.

Unless you know something I don't James......lol you know someone who knows from experience .....be a hell of story to fold a control arm for sure.

I looked forever and just about every spring manufacturer I could think of.....but sadly I don't think I ever did look at fox lol.

I'm sure some have to exist, or maybe even a variable rate spring would work. I just don't have the cashflow to test all the stuff I'd like to.

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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Normal 10-12" 2.5" id springs are pretty cheap....under 100 each.







Oh yeah. I think the arms themselves would prob hold weight, they are pretty beefy and reinforced with 1/4" plate. I could just about guarantee the mount wont though.

Unless you know something I don't James......lol you know someone who knows from experience .....be a hell of story to fold a control arm for sure.

I looked forever and just about every spring manufacturer I could think of.....but sadly I don't think I ever did look at fox lol.

I'm sure some have to exist, or maybe even a variable rate spring would work. I just don't have the cashflow to test all the stuff I'd like to.

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Lets put it like this. I put a bumpstop to hit half way down the arm on my old 1500 where it was never designed to be and i folded the arm after littke jumps and bottoming out the bumpstop. The bracing wasnt in that part of the arm to take the hit from all the force. I was 18 and retarded then.

Imop, if your gunna go tubular, build your own. You will be farther ahead.

As for the cash to test. Im in the same damn boat. Levi was suppose to run a kit was gunna build him but it was three months out from when i could finalize it and he bought some other stuff instead. One of these days ill get this kit put together....
 

jmaz268

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It would be cool to design some kits....but I think the liability would scare the shit out of me to not wanna do it

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TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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I've been exploring how I could get adjustable shocks on the front of the 1/2 ton. Difficult to do since the shocks are installed up thru the spring. A coil-over setup might do the trick. Problem is, I doubt the lower shock mount in the A-arm is strong enough. Maybe 1/4" plate welded into the spring pocket would work?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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I've been exploring how I could get adjustable shocks on the front of the 1/2 ton. Difficult to do since the shocks are installed up thru the spring. A coil-over setup might do the trick. Problem is, I doubt the lower shock mount in the A-arm is strong enough. Maybe 1/4" plate welded into the spring pocket would work?

Ive seen lots of guys do that and hold up off road if that helps tom.
 

Harbin_22

Active member
Dec 4, 2010
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Southern Indiana
I've been exploring how I could get adjustable shocks on the front of the 1/2 ton. Difficult to do since the shocks are installed up thru the spring. A coil-over setup might do the trick. Problem is, I doubt the lower shock mount in the A-arm is strong enough. Maybe 1/4" plate welded into the spring pocket would work?

Not sure on the old style, but NBS Tahoe's have coil over setup. Might look into their lower control arm. Don't have any idea if it will help but might give some ideas
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Now i swore i found a 1100lbs spring before for a 2.0 coilover shock. ill have to do some hunting again. it was hard to find but it was only 100-150 each IIRC. i think it was even 12". that would be the ideal spring. I fear in a leveled truck, you will get coil bind with a 900lbs spring.
I'm pretty sure Eibach makes a 1100 lb 12" spring.

Nevermind, they're only 8" springs.
 
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JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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What if you stacked a 1000 lb 6" and a 1300 lb 6" with some coupling spacers?
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
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I've been exploring how I could get adjustable shocks on the front of the 1/2 ton. Difficult to do since the shocks are installed up thru the spring. A coil-over setup might do the trick. Problem is, I doubt the lower shock mount in the A-arm is strong enough. Maybe 1/4" plate welded into the spring pocket would work?

What about a shock hoop that follows tight to the upper/inner fender well, then run a coil over or just the adjustable shock off the top A-arm, with a plate welded to the top of the arm?