Brake light issues after LML hydro boost upgrade

19jake91

New member
Jul 10, 2017
5
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Allentown, PA
I just installed the 2011 LML hydroboost in my 07 LBZ due to my factory one leaking. The install was straightforward but a problem I have had right away is intermittent brake lights, trailer brake controller and sometimes it will not shift out of park. All symptoms of the brake light switch not getting complete contact. Has anyone else done this swap and experienced these problems? If so, how did you fix the situation? Thanks in advance.
 

c5fourj

Occasionally moving quick
Dec 20, 2014
307
3
18
Brighton, CO
Did the exact same swap with no problems. You might of accidentally messed with a wire(s) in the process.
 

chevyburnout1

Fixing it till it breaks
Aug 25, 2008
2,368
1
38
Berthoud, CO
When I swapped mine I noticed the LML booster had a smaller diameter hole where it connects to the brake pedal/mounts the brake switch. Yours may be a bit tighter than other vehicles causing the push rod to not travel far enough to contact the brake switch. Drill it slightly larger.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
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Texas!!!
When I swapped mine I noticed the LML booster had a smaller diameter hole where it connects to the brake pedal/mounts the brake switch. Yours may be a bit tighter than other vehicles causing the push rod to not travel far enough to contact the brake switch. Drill it slightly larger.
What he said is correct. You need to drill the hole out on the booster rod where it goes onto the pedal with a 41/64" drill bit. The first one I did (on my truck), I used a step bit and drilled it out to 11/16" which worked, but 41/64" is almost exactly the same size as the factory booster.
 

19jake91

New member
Jul 10, 2017
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Allentown, PA
What he said is correct. You need to drill the hole out on the booster rod where it goes onto the pedal with a 41/64" drill bit. The first one I did (on my truck), I used a step bit and drilled it out to 11/16" which worked, but 41/64" is almost exactly the same size as the factory booster.

Thanks for the info. I’ll borrow a drill bit from work and hopefully I’ll have the same problem you guys did as well.
 

CarolinaHD

Member
Feb 8, 2011
969
6
18
NC
Good info this should be added to the other hydroboost thread. I hope I don't have this issue, really don't wanna remove it again.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
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Texas!!!
Good info this should be added to the other hydroboost thread. I hope I don't have this issue, really don't wanna remove it again.
You don't have to remove it. Just unhook the rod from the brake pedal and hold it with a pair of vice grips. It can be drilled in the truck.
 

19jake91

New member
Jul 10, 2017
5
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Allentown, PA
What he said is correct. You need to drill the hole out on the booster rod where it goes onto the pedal with a 41/64" drill bit. The first one I did (on my truck), I used a step bit and drilled it out to 11/16" which worked, but 41/64" is almost exactly the same size as the factory booster.

You don't have to remove it. Just unhook the rod from the brake pedal and hold it with a pair of vice grips. It can be drilled in the truck.

Thanks for the great info JoshH. I was able to drill out the rod to a 21/32”(closest size I had readily available) with it still in the truck and the brake light problem is fixed. I would definitely recommend drilling out the new rod before it is installed.

As for the swap, I am happy with the improvement in braking. I’m not sure if it was because of the new design or just because my old one was leaking.

Either way, thanks again for the great info and time saved!
 

19jake91

New member
Jul 10, 2017
5
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Allentown, PA
I know the info is out there but just to confirm other posts, I went with GM part number 178-0853. It was less than $200 to my door with no core charge.