Help: Boost gauge hook up

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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PPE has the best video on installing gauges, and tapping for pyro and boost bungs

Good luck, pretty straightforward.

My .02..... When you overlay the pillar pod, after you drill your holes, use heavy duty 3m spray adhesive to bond it to the factory pillar, it makes it a solid unit, no rattles or vibrations, and if some dipshit trys to use it as a handle to get into your rig it wont pull off or move at all......then paint it to match your interior, alligator performance sells factory match spray.
 

THEFERMANATOR

LEGALLY INSANE
Feb 16, 2009
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ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
If you have EFILIVE to disable the intake heater, then the best/easiest place to hook up the boost is to delete the intake heater and put a plug in drilled for the boost hookup. I know on mine I had it teed into the wastegate line and would see 24-25 on my boost guage, now with it in the intake I only see about 21-22. And most guys put the EGT in the passenger side exhaust manifold in the very rear just in front of the flange where the up pipe connects. Wish I could put mine there, but my rear heater lines run right by the manifold.
 

o4dirtymax

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Dec 17, 2012
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CA
You'll find tons of DIY forums on this explaining how to install, but one thing i didn't really see was about the brightness of the gauges. You can tap into your cluster dimmer but on my autometer's they don't go as dim as i'd like before the cluster goes totally dark. Might want to get a dimmer just for your new gauges.

Which gauges did you get?
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Idk where i saw it, but i think it was ben/duratothemax, did a write up on adding some kind of in line resistor or line inducter/inducer that copensate for the differance between the led lights in the gauges, and the halogen lights in your dash when using the dimmer function.

There is a way, i am sure someone has a link to it
 

DBUSHLB7

Team DMAX
Mar 9, 2012
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Albuquerque, NM
If you have EFILIVE to disable the intake heater, then the best/easiest place to hook up the boost is to delete the intake heater and put a plug in drilled for the boost hookup. I know on mine I had it teed into the wastegate line and would see 24-25 on my boost guage, now with it in the intake I only see about 21-22. And most guys put the EGT in the passenger side exhaust manifold in the very rear just in front of the flange where the up pipe connects. Wish I could put mine there, but my rear heater lines run right by the manifold.

Good suggestion. I just bought a AIH delete plug with boost tap from Toxic Diesels website. They were super friendly and it arrived promptly. Alligator has one as well but will rape on the shipping. Sorry a damn plug can fit in the flat rate box guys were not stupid.

On a budget, a cummins oil plug will thread right in
 

THEFERMANATOR

LEGALLY INSANE
Feb 16, 2009
3,890
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ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
Good suggestion. I just bought a AIH delete plug with boost tap from Toxic Diesels website. They were super friendly and it arrived promptly. Alligator has one as well but will rape on the shipping. Sorry a damn plug can fit in the flat rate box guys were not stupid.

On a budget, a cummins oil plug will thread right in

I didn't like the CUMMINS drain plug. They wanted $15 for one locally, and then you have that stupid 3/8 square drive hole to try and tap. I used a DORMAN 090-055. It is an exact fit for the IAH, same depth and all. Uses a 3/4" hex head to tighhten in, and cost $6.50.
 

DBUSHLB7

Team DMAX
Mar 9, 2012
2,789
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Albuquerque, NM
I didn't like the CUMMINS drain plug. They wanted $15 for one locally, and then you have that stupid 3/8 square drive hole to try and tap. I used a DORMAN 090-055. It is an exact fit for the IAH, same depth and all. Uses a 3/4" hex head to tighhten in, and cost $6.50.

You're right, I looked into drilling that Cummins drain plug and it seemed more trouble than it was worth. Glad you found a solid economic alternative that works well!
 

THEFERMANATOR

LEGALLY INSANE
Feb 16, 2009
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You're right, I looked into drilling that Cummins drain plug and it seemed more trouble than it was worth. Glad you found a solid economic alternative that works well!

It was very economical considering I do alot of business with CARQUEST, and he handed it to me because he didn't feel like ringing it up. So 15 minutes of work to drill and tap it and I now have a boost tap after the intercooler.