2wd Street tires?

RMJ_LB7

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Feb 25, 2020
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Yeah ditch those progressive springs on the coils. Are those shocks dual adjustable (compression and rebound)?

Just out of curiosity, how do you have that axle panhard mount done?


I can send a Better picture when I get home but it’s just to the axle and then to the frame. I also believe that the coilovers are dual adjustable but not 100% sure. This is my first big build and am doing everything myself other than some help from like Brad on the fuel system and such. Feel free to criticize I would as much help as possible


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slowlml

Undercover Epa agent
Feb 6, 2015
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Strasburg Va/Wardensville Wv
Nice to see your build here too ryan. Compd is definitely more of the cummins crowd but theres quite a few guys there that just love anything diesel. Ive ran the 420s, the original proxes, and the kumhos. I think the kumho hooked the best on every surface but dont look as good as the 420s or proxes:D
 

RMJ_LB7

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Feb 25, 2020
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Nice to see your build here too ryan. Compd is definitely more of the cummins crowd but theres quite a few guys there that just love anything diesel. Ive ran the 420s, the original proxes, and the kumhos. I think the kumho hooked the best on every surface but dont look as good as the 420s or proxes:D


Hey good to see you too man! I definitely agree, I also still like to see the Cummins builds as well. What model Kumho? I’ve ran 420s before and I like how much they hooked however I’m trying to debate if I should even waste my money on a set of just go straight to a set of DOT drag radials.


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slowlml

Undercover Epa agent
Feb 6, 2015
542
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The ecsta stx. I ran them in a 305/50/20. I had them reccomended to me from another member here thats truck was well over 1khp and they did great on his. How much street use is the truck going to see?
 

RMJ_LB7

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Feb 25, 2020
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The ecsta stx. I ran them in a 305/50/20. I had them reccomended to me from another member here thats truck was well over 1khp and they did great on his. How much street use is the truck going to see?


Not a ton just when I decide to take it to get some groceries and such lol. I was planning on having a set of cheap wheels and tires just for the street and slicks for the track. I have a track only 20 mins from me so would be driving there and switching tires


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slowlml

Undercover Epa agent
Feb 6, 2015
542
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Strasburg Va/Wardensville Wv
If you can find a set of the original toyo proxes not the st2 i would pick them up for sure.
I would get slicks on some pyos and then wrap some other wheels in the proxes, 420s, or kumhos
 

Bdsankey

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The ecsta stx. I ran them in a 305/50/20. I had them reccomended to me from another member here thats truck was well over 1khp and they did great on his. How much street use is the truck going to see?
If you can find a set of the original toyo proxes not the st2 i would pick them up for sure.
I would get slicks on some pyos and then wrap some other wheels in the proxes, 420s, or kumhos
I would 100% agree on the original Proxes ST (not the ST2). They easily held my truck from a roll at the ~700hp mark and wore extremely well for how I drove it. I tried the Kuhmo for a short time and I would say they are very very similar in terms of traction to the Proxes ST but I had to return them as 2 had a bad wobble from being out-of-round. The tire shop that installed them swapped them for the Proxes due to quicker availability.
 

MarkBroviak

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I have the full length QA1 Double adjustable for the fronts and I made new top mounts so that the truck retained the super lowered look but I get full suspension travel without any issues and I think they are 1200lb springs on them put its been a minute so I may be wrong on that fact. If I lower my front all the way down the tires are tucked in the fenders like a low rider lol.
 

Chevy1925

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I can send a Better picture when I get home but it’s just to the axle and then to the frame. I also believe that the coilovers are dual adjustable but not 100% sure. This is my first big build and am doing everything myself other than some help from like Brad on the fuel system and such. Feel free to criticize I would as much help as possible


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please do. That mount looks weak but i can only see it from one side. you dont want that thing to snap on launch.

are you planning to brace the front link mount area as well?
 

sneaky98gt

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Nov 5, 2013
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Another one to consider is the Yokohama Parada Spec-X. I have them in a 305/50R20, and I've been very happy with them. Not just traction, but rain, noise, and wear as well.

Granted I've got a CCSB 4x4 LB7, it's driven 99.9% of the time in 2-wheel drive. I've got the overload and 2nd leaf removed, and Caltracs set up with no preload. It's nothing special as far as power goes, just an intake / exhaust / hot tune truck with a built trans, so probably 450-500 rwhp. At that level, I've actually been really happy with 2WD traction. It's obviously nothing like 4x4 traction, but if I'm smart with my right foot, it's usually mostly hooked up in 2nd gear, and completely hooked up by 3rd gear. You won't be cutting any fast 60's with them, but for general, casual driving around on the street, they're actually pretty good.

I didn't realize just how much better they were than a normal truck tire until recently. I put my winter tires on a couple months back, some General ATX all-terrains. Holy smokes (literally). 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear are completely useless in 2WD with them. I'll break those things loose in 4th gear at 50-60 mph if I'm not careful. The Yokohamas legitimately have twice the grip the all-terrains do.
 

RMJ_LB7

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I have the full length QA1 Double adjustable for the fronts and I made new top mounts so that the truck retained the super lowered look but I get full suspension travel without any issues and I think they are 1200lb springs on them put its been a minute so I may be wrong on that fact. If I lower my front all the way down the tires are tucked in the fenders like a low rider lol.


When you go to coilovers in the front do you remove the torsion bar system?


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RMJ_LB7

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please do. That mount looks weak but i can only see it from one side. you dont want that thing to snap on launch.



are you planning to brace the front link mount area as well?


I’ve been looking at it as well and think it might be to weak. TheBac suggested to add some
Braces to the front link mount area as well and I am currently working on figuring out what to do that won’t be super heavy but strong.


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Chevy1925

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When you go to coilovers in the front do you remove the torsion bar system?


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yes, torsions go away. you drop 80lbs doing this.

I’ve been looking at it as well and think it might be to weak. TheBac suggested to add some
Braces to the front link mount area as well and I am currently working on figuring out what to do that won’t be super heavy but strong.


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take more pics and post them up. ill look them over and see if i cant draw something up on the pics that helps
 

Chevy1925

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make sure you fully weld the back side of these brackets (see circle) and then box in the forward side of the two bracket plates, that will let you put a round or square tube from the brackets up to the frame. you want to center the tube on the bracket between where the two links are currently mounted. This will brace the link bracket and keep it from flexing forward and back as well as some side to side.




for the pan hard, you are just on the cast center section and the upper mount is only in single shear (one single point mounted to the frame to hold the joint). The cast is very brittle, specially if you didnt pre-heat or post heat after welding. the welds will rip right off it. My suggestion is to box in the back side of the mount and run it out to the axle tube as far as you can (about where the link mounts are and the shock mounts). box all that in (in red) and then run a tube from the top mount to the far end of the axle tube (in green). Make sure you box in the mount as i show in red. it needs the strength from twisting up.

OR knock the whole thing off and move the mount out to the axle tube (better steel to weld on) and brace as i stated as well as make the pan hard longer. This would be the better way as a longer pan hard will reduce axle swing under suspension movement.

i would recommend pre-heating the housing at the axle tube and center section junction to around 500*, welding the axle tube to the center section, letting it slowly cool and then doing all your bracing. i dont know how much power you plan to put down but if you get that thing to hook hard with good power, the stock roset welds arent the best and that center section can spin right up, breaking your drive shaft.
 

RMJ_LB7

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James,

Thank you for clarifying what I should do. I think im going to knock the panhard mount off and start fresh. I did preheat the cast iron before welding however I have been nervous that it will not hold up. I am learning fabrication as I go so seriously if you have any opinions feel free to chime in.

As for the 4- link brackets i already have the front side of it boxed in so it will be very easy to finish that portion.

I am going to draw something up and see what you think.
 

2004LB7

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OR knock the whole thing off and move the mount out to the axle tube (better steel to weld on) and brace as i stated as well as make the pan hard longer. This would be the better way as a longer pan hard will reduce axle swing under suspension movement
While I'm not as learned as James when it comes to suspension, I think this is your best option
 

RMJ_LB7

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While I'm not as learned as James when it comes to suspension, I think this is your best option
I definitely agree. I think this is going to be my plan of attack. I need to get the truck running and moving since I am working out of a little single garage door lol. I am going to get the truck driveable to that I can get it to my buddies shop so he can help me with the welding/fabricating.
 

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