thanks for looking. im old, had stroke limited use of rt. arm and amputated left foot to start. never complain. looked on here and saw many good help with security light staying on. my question is could the drivers door latch work, outside key cylinder works kinda really hard, more unlock than lock. would this possible bad latch cause the security light to stay on all the time and run the batteries dead so after charging batteries light still on and still 2 second start and die? ill take latch out today but can't get one until Thursday next week. sometimes I dont make sense so please ask to clarify if I did. batteries charge up and test out good.
2001 Silverado lb7 security light and drivers door latch
- Thread starter duramax-rob
- Start date
THANKS FOR THE REPLIES!!! im pulling the latch tomorrow but won't be able to get a new one till about Thursday. I will let you know what the new one does when installed probably next weekend. thanks again and will let know.
Could be the rods from the door handle/lock assembly to the latch got messed up?
I would assume if the truck "thought" the door was still "unlocked" after you hit the lock fob that it would trip a security light....but that could be something else entirely.
I would assume if the truck "thought" the door was still "unlocked" after you hit the lock fob that it would trip a security light....but that could be something else entirely.
I'll check the latch situation out this weekend in-between the rain and storms. im taking the key fob into town also to check to see if it's working. will keep updated on progress. THANKS!
just an update. had key fob checked an its sending a signal. pulled the drivers door latch and the plastic in it was broken and levers didn't work correct. assume this is a problem, ordered new one, Dorman . will be here middle of week and update. thanks
hey all!!! I got the latch yesterday, and got it installed. only took 6 hours cause right arm is mostly paralyzed. got all working smoothly manual rods and arms. then big problem to me. power door locks all work, lock and unlock, except drivers door unlock. it won't unlock drivers door. I kinda remember watching another video where they live put 12v and then ground to the switch. I did that and one way showed no ground. also I noticed no interior lights either and security light on dash is on solid.
question? can somebody point me in the direction I I need to go? I searched but couldn't find anything pertaining to this. any help would be really appreciated .!!
question? can somebody point me in the direction I I need to go? I searched but couldn't find anything pertaining to this. any help would be really appreciated .!!
Hello all again. I'm still stuck with a truck that the security light on and starts and die. ive had it towed to a shop, best in 6 repair shop town, that has a snap on diagnostic tool and they said scanner couldn't communicate with any of trucks computers.
So here is what happened again. Truck sat for 3-4 days, normal, went to start and it was dead, 0volts. I charged batteries 10amp 1 charger on right fender battery. Next morning tried starting with security light on solid and jump box on jump posts left side of engine. Security light on, I cranked it, started and died, started and died. Drivers door electric locks would lock but wouldn't unlock drivers door, others locked-unlocked normal. I knew drivers door inside lock and outside lock were getting really stiff so I thought the latch was bad. ordered Dorman latch, installed latch.
While waiting for latch, batteries went dead again. Charged again, security light still on, truck acting same. Interstate batteries, borrowed neighbors charger so be using 2 chargers. Later his charger, electronic, condemms drivers side battery. Get 2 Wally World batteries and install, clean posts and grounds. Notice interior lights aren't working and repair shop just said drivers heated seat is on high and can't shut off.
I'm at a loss right now and so is my repair shop. They have ordered a body control module for now, 2 days out getting. shop never got scanner to confirm its the BMI, so any help would be appreciated very much.!!! thanks rob
it still is hard for me to believe batteries because they cranked almost as fast as new ones, were only few years old and they were interstate. gee wiz wally!!!
So here is what happened again. Truck sat for 3-4 days, normal, went to start and it was dead, 0volts. I charged batteries 10amp 1 charger on right fender battery. Next morning tried starting with security light on solid and jump box on jump posts left side of engine. Security light on, I cranked it, started and died, started and died. Drivers door electric locks would lock but wouldn't unlock drivers door, others locked-unlocked normal. I knew drivers door inside lock and outside lock were getting really stiff so I thought the latch was bad. ordered Dorman latch, installed latch.
While waiting for latch, batteries went dead again. Charged again, security light still on, truck acting same. Interstate batteries, borrowed neighbors charger so be using 2 chargers. Later his charger, electronic, condemms drivers side battery. Get 2 Wally World batteries and install, clean posts and grounds. Notice interior lights aren't working and repair shop just said drivers heated seat is on high and can't shut off.
I'm at a loss right now and so is my repair shop. They have ordered a body control module for now, 2 days out getting. shop never got scanner to confirm its the BMI, so any help would be appreciated very much.!!! thanks rob
it still is hard for me to believe batteries because they cranked almost as fast as new ones, were only few years old and they were interstate. gee wiz wally!!!
Any time I have severe battery problems, I disconnect both battery positive cables, or both negative cables, and charge each battery at least overnight, depending on the charger amps. Longer if la ow-amp charger is used. Then I confirm the charge level independently. If both batteries are in the circuit, you never know for sure what you're getting. And if you have a load tester, use that to see what condition they're in.
If you're topping off batteries that are in good condition, just attach to either one.
And once you get the batteries charged, make sure you don't have a parasitic draw or you'll likely be visiting the battery problem again.
Get the electrical manual for your truck here Charm Manuals for Chevrolet vehicles | Operation CHARM
If you're topping off batteries that are in good condition, just attach to either one.
And once you get the batteries charged, make sure you don't have a parasitic draw or you'll likely be visiting the battery problem again.
Get the electrical manual for your truck here Charm Manuals for Chevrolet vehicles | Operation CHARM
thanks for the replies. new batteries now, replaced last week. still security issue
Has this been resolved? Communication between all modules, including BCM?
question? before the new body control module is installed, do the body grounds to engine block need to be done first before installing the body control module to keep from frying it? thanks. rob
no. they are waiting for the body control module to see if that will make it communicate.
See the attachment. Better to be safe than sorry.
the only thing I have to report is the shop still hasn't fixed my truck. stopped by yesterday twice, was in town, and they said the had the dash out chasing down a broken wire. said the couldn't get any of the computers to communicate. repeated about the grounds block to frame and later it fell on deaf ears. went by again to explain to manager that if you think you have a broken wire that means the electricity isn't getting back to battery which is the same as not having a good ground. I think a light finally went off in his head. let's hope. also bad grounds might fry the new body control module just like original one.
The COM system in our trucks, in one aspect, is like older Christmas tree lights - if one goes out, they all go out. So one electrical truck device can screw up the communication for all the devices. That one device COULD be the BCM, or a broken wire supplying communications or power or ground for the BCM. Just one of the possible problems. It should be fairly easy for a tech who understands how the com system works to zero in on the actual problem.
Take a look here and see what basic steps it takes to figure these problems correctly. Eric O does a pretty good job of doing this.
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thanks Ron Nielson. it will probably be Monday or Tuesday before I know anything more. will keep everyone posted as to what they say.
no news yet. they said mon. yesterday that they still can't get the computers to communicate. said they did the block to body ground cleaning. my question now can a snap-on scanner find out as well as TECK 2 if anyone knows or experienced? also does the security light staying on and the other symptoms like no interior lights have to be resolved first ??