LLY: 05 LLY Build

[Bdsankey]

I bought the truck from the original owner in the fall of 2015 with 312k miles for $5,000. It is leather, loaded, sunroof, bose ect. Its end game is going to be morphing into one hell of a good sleeper to mess with corvettes, camaros, ect.

About the Truck:
The trans was rebuilt at 320k (approx) with stock shafts, SunCoast 1058, t-case brace ect and I was very pleased with the trucks new found power.

Mods: Round 1
Two summers ago (2016) a couple of injectors stuck open and it was deemed time for new injectors. My head gaskets were gone also creating the ticking time bomb it became @ 342k miles.

I built my own traction bars out of 2" OD x 1.5" ID A513 DOM tube, 3/8" brackets, and Ballistic Fab 2.63" joints front/rear to keep the axle in place. I didn't know what the proper material or what everyone else used but I know how to overbuild things so that's what I did.

At this time it got 60% overs from Exergy, an Exergy 10mm pump used from a friend, WCFab 3" bridge/cold side/hot side, and a Danville 68mm Stage 2R 4094. The truck dyno'd @ 671hp/1187tq in April 2017.

 

[Bdsankey]

Mods: Round 2
Toward the end of Summer 2017 the truck started to idle weird and finally started showing signs of low compression. In order to fund my engine build I sold my rust free CC/SB 2002 LB7, leather/loaded and headed to the forums to see what was holding power and what wasn't.

I ended up on the below for the engine build:
-CP Carrillo Hybrid Kit (rods/pistons/rings/wrist pins)(saves 4lbs out of rotating assembly, has 0.202" longer rod)
-SunCoast billet flexplate (they ran a sale end of 2017 for $450 shipped)
-SoCal 6480AF cam
-Socal Pushrods
-SoCal Valve Beehive Springs (steel retainers)
-Fluidampr (I know, people say they break cranks but I feel they are not the cause)
-GM Oil Pump
-New GM oil cooler
-Coated main/cam/rod bearings
-ARP fasteners

This engine is going to be used as a hot street motor and for sled pulls. I would like to hit the strip but there isn't much of a bracket scene in my area.

I am going to feed it with a billet S476/87, throw a Goerend "J" converter in it, add a second 10mm pump, tubular 304SS exhaust manifolds/up-pipes and let it eat.

 

[Bdsankey]

I figured while I had everything apart it was time to do a little powdercoating. I went ahead and got the accessory brackets, front timing cover, valve covers, intake clams, coolant crossover, and a couple other components done up in "Illusion Orange".

My HSP S400 kit is done in "Silver Vein" (a hammered gray look).

 

[frankenstien]

Looking good that's a lot of work, I made my faction bars out of the same size tuning, might be over killing but it'll never break.

 

[Bdsankey]

Looking good that's a lot of work, I made my faction bars out of the same size tuning, might be over killing but it'll never break.

It's definitely a lot of work. Using the CP-Carrillo hybrid kit really threw my machine shop for a loop as they were expecting the rotating assy to take more weight.

I'm going to do some "not best practice" tuning on the regs to shoot rail through the roof in the big tune (put regs to full pressure) in an attempt to get more fuel. On tune 2 (depending on how you tune its tune 4) it will be the same profile other than the reg tuning will be put back to normal.

 

[TheBac]

Little bit o'toe-in going on during that pull, eh? :rofl:

Like what you're doing so far! :thumb:

 

[Bdsankey]

Little bit o'toe-in going on during that pull, eh? :rofl:

Like what you're doing so far! :thumb:

That was before I put the dhd support in. After that it doesn’t toe-in at all

 

[2005redlly]

Are a lot of people starting to run the cp hybrid kit? Can't find much info on it.

 

[Bdsankey]

Are a lot of people starting to run the cp hybrid kit? Can't find much info on it.

I can’t find anyone who is running it. There are zero reviews on usage.

I figured it literally can’t hurt to remove weight and increase rod length. It is a pricey setup retailing for $5200-$5500 I believe. With that you get rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins, pin clips and some fancy stickers.

 

[Bdsankey]

Update, got everything from the machine shop today so I can start assembly this weekend.

More pictures to come this weekend into next week!

 

[Burn Down]

Sounds pretty solid.

 

[melvinalbs]

Sounds good, I can't wait to see it. :thumb:

 

[Bdsankey]

Sounds pretty solid.

The only thing I didn't do was billet mains/girdle/crank. I know the motor will hold together with any T4 single I put on it.

End goal is in a few years (complete billet trans first) is to pull it out again and do a callies narrow rod throw crank/billet caps/girdle and o-ring the block & heads.

I will be switching over to a set of LBZ heads probably for next season then I can also check out the pistons and see how they are doing. I'm hoping with the CP-Carrillo forged pistons she should get good street life due to the small piston-to-wall clearance (0.008 iirc) where as other forged pistons require a higher running tolerance.

 

[Bdsankey]

Update: Got the rotating assy and block back from the machine shop last Thursday. The amount of weight they pulled out of the crank for balancing is insane. I've seen inside a few other built motor trucks


I managed to break an oil ring Sunday with my cheap Summit tapered ring compressor. After that $100 overnight bill from California I decided to overnight the ARP tapered ring compressor as well for 4.075" bore. I managed to break 2 more rings with the ARP tapered compressor (oil rings) so I had to suck it up and get help from the machine shop. What doesn't make sense is I've done this numerous times on other engines and had zero issues.


This weekend/next week (before UCC) I am hoping to have the engine bolted in the truck/bolted to the trans. That would be awesome to get accomplished as then all I have to do is bolt the turbo setup on and hook up the easy stuff.

 

[Burn Down]

I’d be curious how long this set up can last. Lighter rotating assembly has to be easier on the crank. They did drill a lot out:thumb:

 

[Bdsankey]

I’d be curious how long this set up can last. Lighter rotating assembly has to be easier on the crank. They did drill a lot out:thumb:

Are you saying from a HP standpoint or from a miles/run time stand point?

HP it should easily hold 1k with a single as that is what the motor is built for. With a better crank/mains/girdle it would hold anything you throw at it as they are forged cp pistons and carillo rods.

With the rods being 0.202" longer they also take load off of the crank as well as increase dwell time in the top of the cylinder where pressure is highest (creating more tq). I'm curious to see how this girl likes rpm as thats what I built it for indirectly.

I wanted to keep my 3.73 ratio as well as run a 33" tall tire to keep the truck street-able/driveable to the pulls and to work. With that, I either need a ton more HP to run 4th gear OR turn more rpm. I decided on more rpm.

To run 28-30mph down the track with 33s I need ~4400rpm. That means if the track is lose or the sled is light I'll need a little more.

 

[Burn Down]

Cranks have broken under stock power... I’m curious if this lighter rod, piston , crank combo will save/slow down broken cranks.

 

[Bdsankey]

Cranks have broken under stock power... I’m curious if this lighter rod, piston , crank combo will save/slow down broken cranks.

I’m hoping so as well. Between that, the 6480af crank, and fluidampr keep it alive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Burn Down]

Either way I guess 4K+ for rods and pistons or 4K+ for a fancy crank:rofl:

 

[Bdsankey]

Either way I guess 4K+ for rods and pistons or 4K+ for a fancy crank:rofl:

Well, think about it this way:

"Standard" build rods/pistons (cast)
1) Rods (Carrillo): $2600
2) Mahle race forged oval bowl pistons: $2600
-Total: $5200

"Hybrid" build rods/pistons: $5200MSRP for forged cp-carrillo pistons, rods, hemi top fuel wrist pins, spiralok pin clips, and complete ring package. Really not too bad compared to the guy doing a full comp engine build w/forged pistons.