01 crewcab 6.6 turbo 127k miles

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,045
226
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Nor cal
I know this isn’t a fix, but those 2 lights have been on in my parents ‘01 Yukon for years lol. They haven’t experienced any adverse braking problems with it though, just the lights on the dash.

The abs module adjusts the front/rear brake proportion, I wouldn’t drive with them on.
 

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,045
226
63
Nor cal
Every Duramax I have owned I deleted the factor fuel filter when I added a airdog system. The factory filters are a pita to change.

I wouldn’t remove the factory filter, if the lift pumps filtration worked 100% there would be no need to ever change the factory filter again.
 
Mar 20, 2016
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I wouldn’t remove the factory filter, if the lift pumps filtration worked 100% there would be no need to ever change the factory filter again.
ok, so does this lift pump go in line with the factory filter....hope not to be asking dumb question/s? Going to hve to research this or talk with a dealer and see how all this works together?
 

ZeroGravity58

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
1,383
46
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Maryland
I wouldn’t remove the factory filter, if the lift pumps filtration worked 100% there would be no need to ever change the factory filter again.
If you use the factory airdog filters they aren't the best. I switched to a Donaldson P551315 for fuel filter and a Baldwin BF1275 water separator. The Donaldson is 3 micron absolute where a factory fuel filter is 4 micron. Everyone has there opinions I just don't see the point.
 
Mar 20, 2016
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ok, i bought the airdog kit and now i am at the point to disconnect fuel line. I've completed as much as the installation i could with leaving the stock on. On top, towards the front, the fuel cooler, i can't get the line off. I bought the fuel line tool and tried 4 different times and the line won't budge? I tried pushing and pulling but a no go. The fuel line tool (1/2 inch) is flush against the fuel line but it won't pop off? I am beginning to wonder if on the tool, the part that goes into the line, isn't long enough? I had new, braided fuel lines put in, not that it matters? I've not even tried on top of the fuel tank. Seems that will be a dozy to get off and it is the bigger of the two lines? My thoughts were, if i start above cooler, i'd trace line to top of fuel tank. I can't see the connection, will have to feel. I am working on the ground and with the line at top of fuel tank, that baffle on the side...can't see squat. Just feel. Thoughts? Tks
 
Mar 20, 2016
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If you use the factory airdog filters they aren't the best. I switched to a Donaldson P551315 for fuel filter and a Baldwin BF1275 water separator. The Donaldson is 3 micron absolute where a factory fuel filter is 4 micron. Everyone has there opinions I just don't see the point.
whats up with the microns...seems 4 micron would be better than 3?
 

darkness

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2009
1,226
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vegas
That return line is a major pain. 2 trucks I put my own lift pump on sucked lol. Just keep working at it.
 

ZeroGravity58

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
1,383
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38
Maryland
Don't cut that in half. If I remember right you have to remove the filler neck, pull it apart and put the tee in, then slide the vent tube back in. You should be able to get the filler neck off without to much trouble. If you cant take all the driverside bed bolts out (4), loosen the pass side bed bolts (4).Tip the bed up and slide some blocks of wood in.
 
Mar 20, 2016
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Don't cut that in half. If I remember right you have to remove the filler neck, pull it apart and put the tee in, then slide the vent tube back in. You should be able to get the filler neck off without to much trouble. If you cant take all the driverside bed bolts out (4), loosen the pass side bed bolts (4).Tip the bed up and slide some blocks of wood in.
tks for the input...i was wondering about that...that would've been a bummer cutting that...i have a cap on bed...hope this won't be a issue? Will have to do some research on removing it
 

ZeroGravity58

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
1,383
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Maryland
Leave to cap on it, the bed arnt that heavy. I could take my ARE cap on and off by myself. I just replaced the fuel gauge sender in my lbz and did it this way. I tipped the bed up and slid two 4x4's under it.
 
Mar 20, 2016
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Leave to cap on it, the bed arnt that heavy. I could take my ARE cap on and off by myself. I just replaced the fuel gauge sender in my lbz and did it this way. I tipped the bed up and slid two 4x4's under it.
sweet, just talked to manufacturer of kit and he states to cut outside of fill tube and pull the plastic tube from gas tank, run it thru the return fuel tube and then clamp it all together. We'll see how it goes? Just going to try and get those connectors apart. tks for response
 
Mar 20, 2016
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was going to put the filler tube (for return diesel to go back into tank) on with regards to the airdog that i am installing. The manufacturer stated to cut the protective hose (just found out per video), pull the tube out from gas tank, run it thru the metal filler tube with arrow pointing towards gas tank, install the protective hose on new filler tube and clamp it. What i am wonder about is with the diesel returning thru the filler tube (airdog) and it isn't going thru the tube into the tank (stock), where is the diesel going via the kit that is to return to the tank? The stock tube goes from outside of truck where diesel goes in, thru that smaller tube that goes into tank that is protected via the bigger, rubber tube on the outside of that tube. I would seem to think since i am adding the return from kit that goes via the return filler tube from kit, that is fitted between the outer, rubber hose that protects the stock filler tube, that the return diesel from the kit will just fill up the protective hose that is stock? Hope this makes sense?