It has probably 65k on it, but been sitting in the backseat for the last almost 2 years. I cracked the injector lines and cranked and had fuel coming from the lines.
New lml engine build, no fuel rail pressure
- Thread starter Toxic
- Start date
I think your fpr2 on the front of drivers side rail is not getting power. This is a normally open regulator so it needs power to close. If this regulator is open when cranking in my experience it will read around 70 psi of rail pressure. Check wiring and check for bent pins at ecm plugs. If you have Injector return pressure problem, it will still build rail pressure but Injectors wont fire. Also check your plug where the fpr harness plugs into main engine harness. This same harness runs down to the oil pressure sensor and could be same problem with your oil pressure.
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Possibly but I took the oil feed off the top of the turbo and cranked and didn’t have any oil coming out. Oil galleys are full, and there is oil in the line at the turbo but wasn’t spraying out like I expected with the oil line off. Wasn’t even trickling out when cranking. I will see if I have a manual oil pressure gauge at work I can verify things with. If I do actually have oil pressure, I did initially when I first tried to start it, had like 40 cranking, I will do some verification with the wiring to the fpr2. I stripped a bunch of plugs from the harness when I moved the pins around for the AF cam. All the egr, intake heater, wif, fuel vacuum, the vgt turbo stuff and anything else that had anything to do with emissions. Pretty much went through the pinout and got rid of all the stuff that’s not there anymore.
I've had to back the oil filter off to allow the oil pickup and pump to prime on fresh builds. Usually with oil filters that have anti drain back valves in them.
Crimping off the main return would have told us if the fpr2 was open. At min it would have build rail.
Hose from fpr2 doesnt run to return, it runs back to supply
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Yes your right I didn't notice he clamped it off right at the rail. I would still pull the hose off and make sure theres no fuel coming out of rail when cranking. It would have to be pinched really hard to hold rail pressure back. Also might be worth checking regulator 1 commanded milliamps with a scanner to make sure theres nothing goofy with ecm or tuning.
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I do know it goes to 1300ish ma right after cranking, but it shows the desired is the same. Then after a bit, not sure how long it takes but it goes back to 400 desired and actual follows.
Got a little bit of time to mess with it tonight, hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the port on the front passenger side where the turbo feed line is at. The gauge didn’t move at all. That oil galley is full of oil though, pours out when you take the line off, but nothing was getting to the gauge.
Has a small oil leak on the rear driver side, from what I can see it’s above the coolant elbow on the oil cooler. Atleast there’s oil on the top stud on the elbow on the block .
Has a small oil leak on the rear driver side, from what I can see it’s above the coolant elbow on the oil cooler. Atleast there’s oil on the top stud on the elbow on the block .
I think at this point I’m just gonna pull the motor back out and take the front and rear covers off. Honestly thinking it blew the plugs out of the back. Never installed anything like that before so I installed them dry, but upon reading more I should have used silicone or red or green loctite. Or even tapped them and used threaded plugs.
I could just pull the trans and tcase or I could just unbolt the trans and converter and a few grounds, starter and some other misc things and have the motor out. Then maybe pop a main or rod cap off and check out the bearings, make sure I didn’t destroy them cranking for who knows how long with no oil pressure. Will check out the top end too.
I could just pull the trans and tcase or I could just unbolt the trans and converter and a few grounds, starter and some other misc things and have the motor out. Then maybe pop a main or rod cap off and check out the bearings, make sure I didn’t destroy them cranking for who knows how long with no oil pressure. Will check out the top end too.
If you blew the back ones out, youd know. Oil would be everywhere on the ground. I learned that the hard way. Only one that could blow out and you not know is in the front under the front cover behind the oil pump. Sealant is a good idea but again, if they came out or leaking, youd see it everywhere.
It’s got a drip from the rear on both sides I think. I know for sure on the driver side it does. Still probably gonna pull the front cover off first and check all that out before I pull the motor out again. Has a big puddle under it currently, and seen it dripping in the back the other day when I was under it trying to figure it out. The driver side is leaking somewhere right around where the elbow on the oil cooler bolts to the rear cover. Right around the area those galley plugs on that side are at. Obviously it shouldn’t be the elbow as it’s for coolant but it’s right in that area.
If you got a big puddle, more than likely the issue!
That’s what I was suspecting. Best course of action to pull the motor back out or drop the trans and everything else? Don’t have the core support or anything in yet. What do you suggest I use to keep them in place? Right stuff black or the grey silicone used on the pans and covers or red loctite? What about the green press fit loctite?
Pull the engine since the front hasn't been reinstalled yet would be easiest thing
My thoughts too, easier to work on also.
Pull the engine. Its what i did. Way easier since the midplate has to come off
I just used green seal retainer
I just used green seal retainer
So, back to this, I pulled the engine back out, replaced all the oil galley plugs, and reinstalled the engine. I have oil pressure cranking now, but none were blown out. The only thing I found, possibly suspect, was the O-ring on the back of the front cover. Still have an oil leak on the driver side, I think from the oil cooler, but it could be higher up. Not super concerned right now about it, as I'd like to get it running and be able to verify where it's leaking first.
It will still only build about 143 psi of fuel rail pressure. With the recommendation from Aaron Wiebe (tuner), I replaced the FPR on the CP3, as he suspected it was seized and stuck open from sitting for 2.5 years. That doesn't seem to have helped at all. I have the injector return pinched off with vise grips, also.
I noticed that with the scan tool hooked up, the "Ignition 1 signal" always shows "off". Key on, cranking, doesn't matter; it shows off. wondering if that's possibly the issue, but anywhere I've found to test it, I have power. Blue ECM connector, big engine harness connector, gpcm, maf, so far all have power on the pink ign 1 wire.
I've taken the regulator out of the front of the driver side fuel rail, it seems to be functioning, at least I can hear it clicking when I put power and ground to it.
I'm wondering at this point if I stripped something from the harness I shouldn't have, or something in the process got damaged, or a pin slipped out, or something. Have a buddy who may have a spare engine harness lying around to try when he gets back from vacation, to rule that out. I'll have to swap the injector pins around for the alt fire, though.
It has no engine codes.
It will still only build about 143 psi of fuel rail pressure. With the recommendation from Aaron Wiebe (tuner), I replaced the FPR on the CP3, as he suspected it was seized and stuck open from sitting for 2.5 years. That doesn't seem to have helped at all. I have the injector return pinched off with vise grips, also.
I noticed that with the scan tool hooked up, the "Ignition 1 signal" always shows "off". Key on, cranking, doesn't matter; it shows off. wondering if that's possibly the issue, but anywhere I've found to test it, I have power. Blue ECM connector, big engine harness connector, gpcm, maf, so far all have power on the pink ign 1 wire.
I've taken the regulator out of the front of the driver side fuel rail, it seems to be functioning, at least I can hear it clicking when I put power and ground to it.
I'm wondering at this point if I stripped something from the harness I shouldn't have, or something in the process got damaged, or a pin slipped out, or something. Have a buddy who may have a spare engine harness lying around to try when he gets back from vacation, to rule that out. I'll have to swap the injector pins around for the alt fire, though.
It has no engine codes.
