To start off. Here is why I'm replacing the stock hitch. It's bent and pin holes are starting to oval.
Here is a shot of the clearance for the exhaust. It's a "ghetto" 4". I have just over a 1/4" gape. I wanted more but the exhaust wouldn't cooperate...yet! There's lots of room for the exhaust, but you may have to adjust the exhaust pipe to clear the hitch plate.
The cross member is heavy but very balance. It was very easy to lift with the floor jack and line-up with the bolts in the plate.
For the other side I reinstalled the stock bolt (per the instructions). Then swung it out of the way, lined up the cross member with the bolts, pushed it all together and bolted it up.
Note; The instructions say to tighten the bolts to 75 ft lbs. Then re-tighten them to 100 ft lbs. The ribs in the carriage bolts stripped way before I got to 75, more like 50 ft lbs.
One thing I didn't like is the trailer plug. Looks like an after thought to me. Could have been done better/different. There is only 1 bolt, off center, holding it.
All done...except for the stuff I'm going to re-due (Carriage bolts, exhaust and plug) in the near future.
Also...the hitch mounts to the frame using 10 (Grade 8) bolts total. 5 on a side. The cross member bolts to the mounting plates with 8 (Grade 5) bolts. 4 on a side.
The top reciever ended up 3/4" higher than the stock hitch on my truck.
The gape between the back of the cross member and my Mag-Hytec is 30.5". The tire you see in the pic's is for my TT. The spare H2 never did fit under there.