LBZ mileage tune
- Thread starter Dozerboy
- Start date
what kind of mileage before and after this tune??
Its been a long time IIRC 1 possibly 2 MPG in my truck on the hwy, but like 3+ MPG for my daily commute of mixed driving.
I put this same basic tune into an 06LLY, an LBZ DURABURB, and modded it slightly to put it in 2 different LMM's, and all of them say they seen an improvement in milage of about 1-3 MPG. The BURB says he now sees 21-22 running 65, the 06 LLY says he has seen 23 at 65, and the 2 LMM's are getting 20-22 running it.
This is still pretty much the base for most of my tunes I just a bit more fuel in it now. And you can see my MPG in my sig, No towing
:thumb: ill have to try it. I'm fixing to pull the TOYO MT's off and go back to a highway tread or a/t to help battle monthly fuel costs.
What timing are you running at cruising speeds with this tune. I'm not home to Dl it and check it out. thanks.
How does/would this tune respond to a stg 2 drop in turbo upgrade?
you had mentioned the e.g.t's may run a little hot in lower gears while towing, if you could get an additional ammount of air into the cylinder, with the same tune, theoretically wouldn't your e.g.t's be lower under the same duty cycle/load?
you had mentioned the e.g.t's may run a little hot in lower gears while towing, if you could get an additional ammount of air into the cylinder, with the same tune, theoretically wouldn't your e.g.t's be lower under the same duty cycle/load?
What was the estimated horsepower of this tune? Don't think I saw a guesstimate anywhere.
Also why are lower boost tunes suppose to get better mileage? You would think that higher boost tunes at cruising speed would because then you have higher cylinder pressure. Can you guys explain this to me?
Less boost=less fuel
more boost=more air=more fuel=less economy
Its all about the fuel/air ratio, right
of course there is a trade, its finding the fine line thats the hard part
more boost=more air=more fuel=less economy
Its all about the fuel/air ratio, right
of course there is a trade, its finding the fine line thats the hard part
Higher boost pressure than needed equals out to wasted work. A good example would be to go back 25 years and look at the old GM 6.2L diesel. They were slower than sin, only had 130HP, but got mid twenties for milage all day long running down the highway empty. Take the same diesel engine and turbo it and you could hit 200HP pretty easily(if the pump would do it), actually get up and go in traffic, but milage dropped to maybe 20. On the other hand though, the same engine would gain milage while towing with the turbo addition. More boost than needed for a situation equals out to wasted fuel as it takes fuel to make boost. So if you don't need any boost, then adding boost WILL use MORE fuel.
12000lb tow
I am currently in Chicago. I will be returning to Detroit tomorrow. I have a tune that I downloaded on my truck right now and am getting approximately 16 for the 70 mph run from Chicago to Detroit unloaded. I am going to load this post's tune tonight and I will list the results tomorrow. Note that I set cruise and maintain a speed 90% of the run.
Ultimately I need to tune my truck to tow my 12000+ pound 5th wheel toy hauler. I do not know how safe this tune will be. My only concern is that my ride home is Detroit to Allentown PA. If you have drive it you know there isn't a flat part to the run once you leave Ohio. I constantly monitor the engine via an old edge evolution tuner that I no longer use to tune (note, those tunes are not very impressive other than just making power).
I guess the main point of this post is...Does anyone think that I should avoid this pull on the tune in this post? It is relatively cool out now. I would avoid it as a test in the summer for sure unless I had good data.
I do not know where to start. I read Killer bee's stuff. It is very informative, however I don't have the state of mind to put myself on the side of the road in another state with the trailer while attempting hypermiling. Once I get home it will be a different story.
thoughts anyone?
I am currently in Chicago. I will be returning to Detroit tomorrow. I have a tune that I downloaded on my truck right now and am getting approximately 16 for the 70 mph run from Chicago to Detroit unloaded. I am going to load this post's tune tonight and I will list the results tomorrow. Note that I set cruise and maintain a speed 90% of the run.
Ultimately I need to tune my truck to tow my 12000+ pound 5th wheel toy hauler. I do not know how safe this tune will be. My only concern is that my ride home is Detroit to Allentown PA. If you have drive it you know there isn't a flat part to the run once you leave Ohio. I constantly monitor the engine via an old edge evolution tuner that I no longer use to tune (note, those tunes are not very impressive other than just making power).
I guess the main point of this post is...Does anyone think that I should avoid this pull on the tune in this post? It is relatively cool out now. I would avoid it as a test in the summer for sure unless I had good data.
I do not know where to start. I read Killer bee's stuff. It is very informative, however I don't have the state of mind to put myself on the side of the road in another state with the trailer while attempting hypermiling. Once I get home it will be a different story.
thoughts anyone?
Tuning ideas
I guess table is a little scary. What is the impact of this {B1128}
I am very new to this stuff. After looking at the changes made, what is the method to your changes. For example I would have started with changes like upping overall timing. I see some changes with that but I dont get the reasoning to start playing with some of the other items. If I pick one for arguments sake B1102.
Sorry if I sound ignorant. I am just trying to ease into this.
I have included my tune created from yours.
It is for an 06 LBZ and I have no grid heater or egr. Tire size 285/55r20. I removed post injections because I do not have any emissions equipment in the exhaust.
I guess table is a little scary. What is the impact of this {B1128}
I am very new to this stuff. After looking at the changes made, what is the method to your changes. For example I would have started with changes like upping overall timing. I see some changes with that but I dont get the reasoning to start playing with some of the other items. If I pick one for arguments sake B1102.
Sorry if I sound ignorant. I am just trying to ease into this.
I have included my tune created from yours.
It is for an 06 LBZ and I have no grid heater or egr. Tire size 285/55r20. I removed post injections because I do not have any emissions equipment in the exhaust.
Well I drove for a while and was unimpressed. So, I pulled over at a truck stop and realized that I made a mistake copying the tune. I started from scratch with my stock cal and modified every table by hand. The result 254 miles 70mph with cruise set rolling hills 80 iat = 22.4 mpg
Fuel 28-34mm avg
Boost 3-5
MIT 9-10 deg
Rpm 1690
2wd 2500hd tonneau Allison 285/55r20 lowered 4 inches
Now I feel that there is still room for improvement but I was impressed.
Fuel 28-34mm avg
Boost 3-5
MIT 9-10 deg
Rpm 1690
2wd 2500hd tonneau Allison 285/55r20 lowered 4 inches
Now I feel that there is still room for improvement but I was impressed.
Am I missing something? My lb7 does way better than the MPGs you guys are posting. Unloaded 70mph I average right around 20-21 hand calculated and corrected for tire size
LB7's get better milage than the 04.5+ trucks do because of teh fixed wastegated turbo whereas the newer trucks run a VVT turbo that tends to run higher boost at cruise.
My cruise boost is 7psi and I know the new trucks use VVT I just didn't realize the mpg was so drastic
It makes me wonder if a wastegate in parallel would help. I need to add a down pipe and also want exhaust manifolds but they are pricey.