Question: DIY centerlink?

[SgtKilroy]

What would be the pros/cons of modifying the stock centerlink to be a straight centerlink? It's cast so I'm not planning on welding a nut to it, but I was wondering if I could cut it off (cut A), drill and tap it again for the tie rods. I was also wondering if I couldn't save some turning radius by cutting it at an angle (cut B).

A piece of DOM with threaded ends and a reamer is another option, but I just figured I'd give it a shot. With the stock centerlink, it's essentially free other than the alignment afterwards.

 

[D-MAX Mafia]

You can weld on the stock center link. I welded a shackle on the end of mine.

On the DroidX

 

[JMK777]

You will need a long inner tierod and cutting it on a angle will not do anything.

 

[jheyob]

You will need a long inner tierod and cutting it on a angle will not do anything.

ditto..


From what I've learned and with some help from JMK in the beginning...

You need to drill ~1.100in with a standard drill bit to get a plug tap far enough in the hole to have the proper thread engagement for the tie rod, ~.900in with a bottoming tap/modified bottoming tap. You would be into the taper at that depth. Your tie rods aren't even long enough for that much being cut off the ends.

DOM won't work, needs to be solid for the tapers or they will seat/wear badly.

You also need to countersink/bore the ends for clearance from the lack of threads near the face of the tie rod.

I could not find a taper reamer online or through any catalog with the proper taper. Taper reamers also grab super hard at full engagement and don't hold up very well.

^Those are DIY

 

[ripmf666]

 

[JMK777]

ditto..


From what I've learned and with some help from JMK in the beginning...

You need to drill ~1.100in with a standard drill bit to get a plug tap far enough in the hole to have the proper thread engagement for the tie rod, ~.900in with a bottoming tap/modified bottoming tap. You would be into the taper at that depth. Your tie rods aren't even long enough for that much being cut off the ends.

DOM won't work, needs to be solid for the tapers or they will seat/wear badly.

You also need to countersink/bore the ends for clearance from the lack of threads near the face of the tie rod.

I could not find a taper reamer online or through any catalog with the proper taper. Taper reamers also grab super hard at full engagement and don't hold up very well.

^Those are DIY

They came out good:thumb: how was the fit up on the truck?

 

[cafryer]

Just buy one from Henry They are awsome:thumb:

 

[SgtKilroy]

ditto..


From what I've learned and with some help from JMK in the beginning...

You need to drill ~1.100in with a standard drill bit to get a plug tap far enough in the hole to have the proper thread engagement for the tie rod, ~.900in with a bottoming tap/modified bottoming tap. You would be into the taper at that depth. Your tie rods aren't even long enough for that much being cut off the ends.

DOM won't work, needs to be solid for the tapers or they will seat/wear badly.

You also need to countersink/bore the ends for clearance from the lack of threads near the face of the tie rod.

I could not find a taper reamer online or through any catalog with the proper taper. Taper reamers also grab super hard at full engagement and don't hold up very well.

^Those are DIY

Gotcha. So basically I'm looking at starting from scratch or buying one. I'm using rare parts tie rods, so I have some length to play with. That was just a picture I found online.
The ones you made look awesome. How'd you end up tapering the holes if you couldn't find a reamer the correct size?
And guys I'd love to buy one, but 1) making my own parts is fun, 2) it's a lot cheaper to make your own most of the time, and 3) I don't have the money for a manufactured one.

 

[jheyob]

They came out good:thumb: how was the fit up on the truck?

Those are prototypes and before they got yellow zinc coated. But they fit perfect. Can push them up onto the tapers, give them a tap and they lock in and stay in place even though they weigh 13.49lbs according to SolidWorks.

The finals will have the ends turned in a turning center and the OD will be turned down a bit to clear a wrench better, similar to the SuperDiesel link.

 

[jheyob]

Gotcha. So basically I'm looking at starting from scratch or buying one. I'm using rare parts tie rods, so I have some length to play with. That was just a picture I found online.
The ones you made look awesome. How'd you end up tapering the holes if you couldn't find a reamer the correct size?
And guys I'd love to buy one, but 1) making my own parts is fun, 2) it's a lot cheaper to make your own most of the time, and 3) I don't have the money for a manufactured one.

Def be best to start from scratch and become friends with a machinist. It takes time to get it down right even with some experience.

I do the tapers with a carbide indexable ball endmill. The inserts are cheap and last decently long. Leaves a finish similar to a reamer, just takes small depths of cut.

Mastercam toolpath, rough passes only shown.

Starting at the top of the hole it takes awhile
[YOUTUBE]GrYK0A8YQks?hd=1[/YOUTUBE]


But at 30ipm the tool zooms when it gets to the smaller diameters
[YOUTUBE]tkdnoBNXEEI?hd=1[/YOUTUBE]

 

[SgtKilroy]

Geez. So not really a job I can do with a drill press and some clamps. haha

 

[jheyob]

If you had a way to mill the flats you could get it to work.

 

[fctry286]

well i have a stock center link if you need one. haha

 

[SgtKilroy]

I'd be happy to take that off your hands.
I'll definitely get a mill vise for the drill press and give it a shot with some round stock.
In a slight mod to this project, would it be unwise to run a brace directly off the centerlink back to the pivots?

 

[JoshH]

I would be very leary of something that has been cut/welded or otherwise modified on my 7k lb truck that could result in a very serious loss of control if my experiment failed. Steering and brakes are two areas where experiments can get very dangerous and costly.

 

[SgtKilroy]

Agreed. Playing with the safety of my family and others to save a buck is just stupid. That's why I'm researching first.

 

[Chevy1925]

cutting the end of the stock center link wont work. you wont have enough bar left after milling the end so the surface is flat for the inner tie rod to sit up against it when you thread it in. when you go to drill and tap the ends, you also wont have enough of the "round tube" left to thread in deep enough before you hit the flat area for the ilder/pitman arm. Cutting the whole thing at an angle isnt a good idea eitehr as both sides would have to be at the exact same angle and jsut the right angle otherwise you can create funky steering and increased wear on the inner tie rod. Not to metion your trying to drill and tap something that is straight into curved steel.

I put alot of effort into trying this about 4 or so years ago before i went on my steering hunt. i jsut didnt feel safe about it after micing stuff out and talking with some machine shops. They would do it but after doing some measurments, it just seemed as though id loose alot of strenght due to the little bit of steel id have left to work with and how close it was to the idler/pitman arm. I just wouldnt recommend modifying it like that. Welding an extention to that area could work as well or putting tabs on but ive never been a fan of welding to cast. Specially on a steering part.

 

[D-MAX Mafia]

Its cast steel. Be different if it was cast iron. Welding to it is no big deal if you know what your doing.

On the DroidX

 

[diesel-max]

Def be best to start from scratch and become friends with a machinist. It takes time to get it down right even with some experience.

I do the tapers with a carbide indexable ball endmill. The inserts are cheap and last decently long. Leaves a finish similar to a reamer, just takes small depths of cut.

Mastercam toolpath, rough passes only shown.

Starting at the top of the hole it takes awhile
[YOUTUBE]GrYK0A8YQks?hd=1[/YOUTUBE]


But at 30ipm the tool zooms when it gets to the smaller diameters
[YOUTUBE]tkdnoBNXEEI?hd=1[/YOUTUBE]

thats exacly how i did mine! lolmade program on master cam and just tapered stepped it down with a ball endmill...... on a HAAS sweet to see im not the only one here to do that!

 

[jheyob]

thats exacly how i did mine! lolmade program on master cam and just tapered stepped it down with a ball endmill...... on a HAAS sweet to see im not the only one here to do that!

Sweet :thumb: It's about the best way to make them without using a reamer, maybe even better.