Head gaskets.

[036.6turbo]

Well, I have been ignoring the low coolant warnings for too long.

It's time.

Yes, the upper read hose stays pressurized long after the truck has cooled down.

Yes, the coolant tank internals look like a hooka bar on a busy night.

But, this is the first time it has ever pushed coolant out, been dealing with the warnings for far longer than I care to admit, but it never showed external signs of losing coolant until now. Hell, I've rarely had to ad coolant.

I will be lifting the cab to do this job. It will get studs as well.

107,000miles on it, thinking about a turbo upgrade while I'm in there, just to help with EGTs when pulling heavy on inclines.

Truck has FULL delete. WCF intake and charge piping. CP3 converted since 29,000mi. And before you ask, I built it from a wreck, back in 2017. So, when the CP4 failed I had no warranty.

All the EGR hardware has been gone since 17 as well as the DEF tank and system.

I am trying to wrap my head around pulling the cab. Here is what I have so far.

• Pull the Grill
• Pull the bumper
• Pull the fender liners
• Disconnect shift cable
• Disconnect E brake cable
• Pull upper and low coolant/rad
• Hot and cold ic
• Trans cooler lines
• Fuse box/wiring
• ECM
• Pull the connector from the TCM
• Power steering lines at hydro boost
• Master cylinder
• Steering shaft
• Cab and front core support bolts
• Ground wire for the fog lights
• Ground wire from the firewall to the driver's side head
• 2 grounds that go from the cab to the frame that attach near the cab mount right behind the fender on both sides.

Cooling stack will go up with the cab.

Appreciate any input or words of wisdom. I have been collecting parts for a while, have ARP studs, complete top end gasket kit minus the head gaskets (long story on that one)

As far as reconditioning the heads, I'm in SE Michigan. Actually, debating driving over to Zeeland to drop them at Merchants?

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Cross your fingers the pistons don’t have cracks brother. I wouldn’t hesitate to let Eric go over them.

 

[036.6turbo]

Cross your fingers the pistons don’t have cracks brother. I wouldn’t hesitate to let Eric go over them.

Fingers and toes.

 

[TheBac]

If Eric is still doing it like the old days, he might have a set of heads on the shelf, ready to go.

 

[036.6turbo]

If Eric is still doing it like the old days, he might have a set of heads on the shelf, ready to go.

Ah, the old days. His name was all over social media. Not as much today.

I watched a video he posted on YT about the new location he's moving too, wow!

Source: https://youtu.be/zvQy4CR6EEU?si=fL-zgeR9aOHJ2tkZ


I guess there's a shop local to me with a good reputation. I may explore that route.

 

[malibu795]

Been following him on FB, seams he's semi retired doing circle track car stuff.

I'll be invading SE Michigan in a couple hours to make some deliveries lol

 

[036.6turbo]

If Eric is still doing it like the old days, he might have a set of heads on the shelf, ready to go.

Just called them, they farm out engine machine work to CD automotive in Hudsonville.

Still doing walk in / out on transmissions and transfer cases. Not engine parts. They sell new heads for 1100.00 apiece.

They recommended I call Dirt Hooker Diesel, on my side of the state.

Local shop comes recommended well from a friend that owns a repair shop in Metamora. Local shop says average cost to deck, valve job, whatever guides they need, $950 for the set. 3 to 4 days turn around.

 

[malibu795]

Seams a lot are farming out engine machine work...

 

[TheBac]

Just called them, they farm out engine machine work to CD automotive in Hudsonville.

Still doing walk in / out on transmissions and transfer cases. Not engine parts. They sell new heads for 1100.00 apiece.

They recommended I call Dirt Hooker Diesel, on my side of the state.

Local shop comes recommended well from a friend that owns a repair shop in Metamora. Local shop says average cost to deck, valve job, whatever guides they need, $950 for the set. 3 to 4 days turn around.

I figured as much. If your local guy is familiar with Dmax heads, then I would definitely go that route.

 

[Chevy1925]

Just called them, they farm out engine machine work to CD automotive in Hudsonville.

Still doing walk in / out on transmissions and transfer cases. Not engine parts. They sell new heads for 1100.00 apiece.

They recommended I call Dirt Hooker Diesel, on my side of the state.

Local shop comes recommended well from a friend that owns a repair shop in Metamora. Local shop says average cost to deck, valve job, whatever guides they need, $950 for the set. 3 to 4 days turn around.

Thats the going price for valve job/guides out here.

Honestly you could probably just hot pressure check and deck them. Knowing the fact those hg probably cracked just due to being junk and not an overheat/warp condition, you can get away with more.

 

[036.6turbo]

I figured as much. If your local guy is familiar with Dmax heads, then I would definitely go that route.

I checked his google reviews and it appears he is. Probably will go with him. Ross Automotive in Lapeer.

 

[036.6turbo]

Thats the going price for valve job/guides out here.

Honestly you could probably just hot pressure check and deck them. Knowing the fact those hg probably cracked just due to being junk and not an overheat/warp condition, you can get away with more.

So you're saying it's the gaskets themselves that are the problem? Replacements should be Mahle's correct? grade C.

 

[PureHybrid]

So you're saying it's the gaskets themselves that are the problem? Replacements should be Mahle's correct? grade C.

Yes it's the gasket. The gold color GM gaskets seem to be troublesome, back to LLY longevity lol. Grade C if you want to slap it together, otherwise measure piston protrusion and buy accordingly. Although recently Brad said the thinner ones were scarce or not available.

 

[Bdsankey]

If you read the old HG you can buy the same thickness. The holes in the gasket outer flange denote the thickness.

The GM gold gaskets are absolute trash and belong there. As for the machine shop charging $950, that's average for a pair of heads. While you didn't have an overheat concern, I personally would recommend you have them gone through.

Replacement gaskets should be Mahle only, you can either buy the same thickness you had or you can buy grade C and skip that step.



Let me know if I can help!

 

[036.6turbo]

Didn’t have much time this afternoon, but it’s a start

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[malibu795]

I'm 5'10"...I've found it easier to pull front tires and set the lower BJ bolt on 6*6 blocks 4*4 Tend to split, you can still get an engine hoist under everything.
Or snug couple nuts up in the rotors and set the rotors on the blocks

 

[Chevy1925]

^^ to add, since you have a lift, we leave the truck racked and set it down like adam says. Then when you gotta get under the truck cause you inevitably dropped something, you can pick it up easy.

 

[1FastBrick]

If you read the old HG you can buy the same thickness. The holes in the gasket outer flange denote the thickness.

The GM gold gaskets are absolute trash and belong there. As for the machine shop charging $950, that's average for a pair of heads. While you didn't have an overheat concern, I personally would recommend you have them gone through.

Replacement gaskets should be Mahle only, you can either buy the same thickness you had or you can buy grade C and skip that step.



Let me know if I can help!

What about the Victor Reinz Head gaskets?

 

[036.6turbo]

I'm 5'10"...I've found it easier to pull front tires and set the lower BJ bolt on 6*6 blocks 4*4 Tend to split, you can still get an engine hoist under everything.
Or snug couple nuts up in the rotors and set the rotors on the blocks

I need to just pull all (4) tires / wheels and use the lift. Maximum drop / lift. I will scrounge up some cribbing for under the suspension because obviously the lift doesn't have locks in those lower positions. Thanks for pointing out the obvious. The two-post lift hasn't been in use long enough for me to always use it to its fullest potential. Old habits and all that.

^^ to add, since you have a lift, we leave the truck racked and set it down like adam says. Then when you gotta get under the truck cause you inevitably dropped something, you can pick it up easy.

Having never done this before, I'm now questioning if I even have the truck properly positioned under the left.

I spent what I thought was a fair bit of time on that but realized yesterday that I was not taking into consideration that the lift arms would need to not just hit the normal points on the frame of the truck, but also the floor of the cab after its all cut loose.

Worse case I may need to set on dollies and scoot it around a bit.

 

[malibu795]

^^ to add, since you have a lift, we leave the truck racked and set it down like adam says. Then when you gotta get under the truck cause you inevitably dropped something, you can pick it up easy.

The problem I've found is rear axle hangs lower, depending the weight of the vehicle that and cause other problems related to balance