Killswitch Options & Opinions

[Mile_high]

Sup, nerds? I'd like to exchange notes on how you guys have killswitches or immobilizers installed on your pickups.

I have one 2000 5.3 gasser and one 2001 LB7 and would like to keep them. The city has tried to steal both of them over the years, and I need to beef up security. I'd like to get to a full ignition killswitch or similar function, but want guidance on how to not do it wrong.

On the half ton, I'm thinking fuel pump and on the diesel I'm thinking starter, but you tell me. What and how? Do we want to kill power to ECM or specifically avoid that? Teach me please.

I have these in the doors, but want something else if they get past or break the glass: https://www.jimmijammer.com/JJ description, 031500.htm

An option to critique: https://41twentytwo.com/product/vehicle-kill-switch/

 

[2004LB7]

I don't have any installed yet. But I've always thought about using a reed switch and a magnet to activate. Hidden with no indication of there being one with the magnet removed. Reed switches can't handle much current so I'd have to be clever on what circuit to use.

For the LB7/LLY, I'd use power to the FICM. Everything would come on. Engine would crank. But engine wouldn't fire. CEL would activate but would go off the moment the kill switch was deactivated

 

[darkness]

For the LB7/LLY, I'd use power to the FICM. Everything would come on. Engine would crank. But engine wouldn't fire. CEL would activate but would go off the moment the kill switch was deactivated

The switch on my ‘02 kills the FICM, and will set 2 codes if you forget. The first one is a u communication code if the key is on too long before hitting the switch, and the second one is either p0090 or p0091 (don’t remember) if you try cranking too many times (twice) before hitting the switch. The p code will throw a cel and put the truck in limp mode and has to be reset.
And obviously if you throw the switch when the truck is running, it shuts down and codes.
I can get the pins I spliced into for the OP this weekend.

 

[TheBac]

Moved to Electronics section.

 

[jlawles2]

Ravelco Anti Theft Device

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Somehow they tie into several of the key systems in the vehicle so that conventional methods of steering wheel key switch bypass do not work for starting the engine. In either of the vehicles killing power to the ECM (even the LB7 has an ECM) will prevent the engine from running.

 

[darkness]

Alright, so this is my set up. I don’t have the schematic anymore, and I didn’t trace the wire to see where it went. But I tied into a small grey wire with black stripe under the fuse box. I think it’s off the relay IGN1. Also the CEL while running and the codes.

 

[Bdsankey]

If your goal is antitheft I would wire it to kill the FICM power on the LB7 as indicated by another member. This will allow the truck to crank etc but simply never energize the injector. As for the gasser, you could do coil power/ground or fuel pump as both would solve your problem.


I am curious on your statement of "the city has tried to steal them both over the years". I don't see why your local municipality would want to "steal" your trucks unless you don't pay parking tickets, park illegally, or have committed some type of crime with the vehicles.

 

[LBZ]

I just took one position on my dsp5 switch and set the pulse width tables to 0. Cranks but will never start. Works for me as switch is in a very tucked away spot you can’t see and not a conventional location either.

 

[darkness]

I just took one position on my dsp5 switch and set the pulse width tables to 0. Cranks but will never start. Works for me as switch is in a very tucked away spot you can’t see and not a conventional location either.

That’s how Sean had his truck set up when I bought it. But I had to get rid of those moonshine tunes for obvious reasons. And I didn’t want to deal with full flashing every time I changed something.

 

[Mile_high]

If your goal is antitheft I would wire it to kill the FICM power on the LB7 as indicated by another member. This will allow the truck to crank etc but simply never energize the injector. As for the gasser, you could do coil power/ground or fuel pump as both would solve your problem.


I am curious on your statement of "the city has tried to steal them both over the years". I don't see why your local municipality would want to "steal" your trucks unless you don't pay parking tickets, park illegally, or have committed some type of crime with the vehicles.

HAHA!!! Street people in the city, not the actual municipality. If I was parked at the end of a long driveway it wouldn't happen, but I park in parking garages most days.

 

[Ron Nielson]

Anyone give a thought to addressing the ground side of required-to-start circuits or maybe the com lines that keep ECM or TCM from communicating?

 

[shakenfake]

I just took one position on my dsp5 switch and set the pulse width tables to 0. Cranks but will never start. Works for me as switch is in a very tucked away spot you can’t see and not a conventional location either.

That’s how I wanted mine on my LBZ but my tuner told me that it was a bad idea…

 

[2004LB7]

That’s how I wanted mine on my LBZ but my tuner told me that it was a bad idea…

Only issue I can see other then the excessive cranking is the rail pressure can get pretty high. But the regular and relief should keep it safe

 

[johnmyster]

I had one on my last truck, I used a time delay relay with a hidden switch. I idea is thief has an easy time getting the truck to start (rather than trashing the interior looking for devices to defeat.) Then, once they're out of the relative seclusion of my driveway, truck dies. They either need to "fix" it in the road, find and cycle the kill switch, or run. I had the switch wired to a dummy light that would warn me not to drive very far before cycling the switch.

You can effectively hide such a relay under the underhood fuse box. I had it wired to provide/deny grounding to one of the fusebox relays providing power to the ecm.

I had also considered getting creative - using a countdown relay that initiates countdown once it sees power from something like the start trigger or better yet, the P/N switch or transmission C5 solenoid. This way you can put the key in and idle indefinitely, but once you put it into gear truck dies in 30 seconds.

 

[LBZ]

Only issue I can see other then the excessive cranking is the rail pressure can get pretty high. But the regular and relief should keep it safe

Should be no different than when you crank it for 15 seconds doing a fuel return test. And really the only time it should happen is for a few seconds when you forget to change switch position lol.

 

[LBZ]

That’s how I wanted mine on my LBZ but my tuner told me that it was a bad idea…

Did he say why?

 

[Bdsankey]

Should be no different than when you crank it for 15 seconds doing a fuel return test. And really the only time it should happen is for a few seconds when you forget to change switch position lol.

Agreed, the system should be perfectly fine.

 

[shakenfake]

Did he say why?

I can try and find it but don’t remember offhand.