3000 to rebuild a front axle? Or is that steering components and everything?
Bought a Sierra as Donortruck - now he stay
- Thread starter Phoenix-LH
- Start date
Yes we did.
Our chevy got new leafsprings front and rear. The front had not all bushings include so we choose there the same energy suspension 2 piece bushings after we failed to set the rubberbushings nevertheless we have tools for press them in...??
Complete with steering components and everything else. List is not complete yet maybe it will rise up a bit more. We knew by start the project what we will expect. Realistic is around 20000 Euro to finish our Frame off restauration just for necessary parts. If we want high quality or Extras like the the Engine Mods will it rise up more. ?
TheBac there come also in the package a clear instruction with it which said to lube any which have contact to metal.
Stupid not to follow - but i know a lot of who never read instructions....
Stupid not to follow - but i know a lot of who never read instructions....
Trust me, Ive known a person or two who installed them dry. Thats just why I mentioned it. No harm, no foul.
Be sure i trust you - i know also people who would not check before they do about any instructions. It maybe helpful for anyone wo search for info and found this thread. From German shops i got the information it is not necessary! But as we was on the Chevy by installing these bushings done i before the search on Energy Suspension what they give themselves for advice before i bought them. Sending back is here no option as this is often more expensive than the value of the part.... Nevertheless it is much more cheaper if i import myself the spareparts as the shops here have only less choice on parts and they take around 100% profit on it. You can say import a sparepart is +45% if i do it myself but +100% if i buy it here in Germany if available.
DAVe3283 i have found in the USA a price for the color of around 1000 Dollar for a gallon. I dont kniw how much paint is needed. We use kg for the cans. On the chevy military carc paint and primer was it more than 15 kg for anything like frame, brackets cab inside and out ... complete 3500 Euro job done by ourself in our shop without a dust extraction system. As the paint is matte was it ok. A glossy paint without dust extraction system is worse so the Sierra will done by a professional. Only prework and primer will done by ourself. What is the interieur color of your truck? We have vinylseats and gray plastic. Vinylseats will gone later to upholstery for leather.
Unfortunately, after a long wait I was informed by my engine builder that it will probably no longer be possible to have the engine overhauled by him. I have already written that he was ill for a long time and has now handed over his business to a successor. Unfortunately, the successor, a friend of ours, is not familiar with Duramax technology and he need the support of the former owner of the business. There is no save date for finishing this. We therefore have to reorient ourselves.
Fortunately, we have several diesel specialists here in Germany who also cover Duramax technology.
We will pick up the engine soon and check our options here
Fortunately, we have several diesel specialists here in Germany who also cover Duramax technology.
We will pick up the engine soon and check our options here
Were you planning on boring the cylinders larger or just open the engine and take a look? I don't see the big problem as long as this new owner has been around other engines
I have to admit that we didn't look to see if there was anything special to consider when removing the engine, only to realize that it is almost impossible to get it out of the engine compartment if you don't remove complete front and half of the additional units. Afterwards a friend told me that in the USA you simply lift the cab to remove the engine
For this reason alone, I don't want to reinstall the engine without having checked it as thoroughly as possible. I don't want to have everything together and the engine dies on the first test drive.
The former owner is still in the shop two days a week to support our friend and still has 4 engines to complete, additional 4 to disambling before he can even start ours. Actually the shop is only 2 days a week in service of different reasons. I also waited more than 4 months for the overhaul of the 6.2 back then. Honestly, I don't want to wait any longer. I don't think anything can be expected until the end of the year at the earliest, and that's not even certain. I actually just wanted to have the condition first.
We went back to him because he gave us very good advice on the 6.2 and got us all the parts we needed. I wouldn't have been able to find the correct parts for the build. Apart from the block, everything came new. But the engine also had heat damage and cylinder head cracks. Our Duramax ran perfectly, had a good compression ratio and was tight. We didn't need to change anything. We could put it back in without any changes. I just don't want to, as we've just removed it too. The engine is only at the engine builder as a precaution and for some modifications, he is not there for overhauling unless there is obvious damage.
In the meanwhile i have done some phonecalls and it seems unless there are 3 shops around me that none of them want do this Modifications. It is maybe on the warranty here. You have on the job usually 1 year warranty and as they all have no expierence in Modifications on this Engines.... it is for them the same like for me - they have to search first about what is on the market and what is possible, avialable and the best choice. They have no interest in that as they have enough to do with rebuildung stock-engines.
Finally i have contact to a Bosch-Diesel-Shop for the checkup on the Common-rails-system. They want to know which injectors are installed (can be different brands) and the Serialnumber auf the pump to check if they have the equipment for that. They said usually it is not a problem but it can be that only one which is not in their System.
They have also a truck-dynamometer where we need to go for the road-licence to got the more HP in the vehicle papers (insurance class is here dependent on Vehicle Category and HP)
Got yesterday a quotation from the Bosch-Shop for the checkup of CP3 Pump and Injectors, assuming they have the pump and injectors in their system.
The pump costs 200-250 Euro + 19% tax for our government and each injector 40-50 Euro + 19% tax, so about 720 Euro just to know if everything is ok ?
That is the price to feel save.
Has anyone an average mileage for the turbo of the LBZ?
I have no compare to a V8 Diesel
The Turbo in our former Vovlo (gas) was leaky with 420 000 km. Our current Volvos both Diesel Engines D5 2,4l have still only 280000 and 180000 km on the clocks, no problems on the turbos.
I will not exchange the turbo just to be save. I am only curious about the Service Life.
The pump costs 200-250 Euro + 19% tax for our government and each injector 40-50 Euro + 19% tax, so about 720 Euro just to know if everything is ok ?
That is the price to feel save.
Has anyone an average mileage for the turbo of the LBZ?
I have no compare to a V8 Diesel
The Turbo in our former Vovlo (gas) was leaky with 420 000 km. Our current Volvos both Diesel Engines D5 2,4l have still only 280000 and 180000 km on the clocks, no problems on the turbos.
I will not exchange the turbo just to be save. I am only curious about the Service Life.
Prices for testing seem decent. Cheaper side to clean / test injectors is about $60each at the local shop here
It seems not all is more expensive here than in USA.
I am already ok with the price. An average shop-hour (the price is splitted in called work-values of 6 minutes, so you pay for any started 6 min - any maintenance schedule have it fixed working values) in the car and truck branche is 80-100 Euro dependent on your brand or you use a brand-free shop than you can got prices from 60-80. I prefer the brand-shops for our Volvo as they use Volvo Software, have direct access on OEM-Parts. The Bosch shop is a brand shop. You can got it a little bit cheaper if you use a brand-free Shop. All prices are without to usual 19% taxes for goverment called here "Mehrwertsteuer". I think you have something similar maybe not for all tradings like in Germany.
I hope we can get the injectors out easily after they have been sitting there for 15 years. You can be sure they are completely untouched.
As for the glow plugs, two were also very unwilling, but finally ready to come out.
Sorry, I forgot to get this information for you. Here are the paint & interior color codes for my truck:
Exterior: 815K = arrival blue
Interior: 522 = tan leather
In my opinion, the best colors GM offered on these trucks are 815K (arrival blue) like my truck, and the dark green variants they offered (9539 is what my Suburban has, but it seems they used other codes for other vehicles).
I personally like the tan interior over the grey, but the grey also looks good and many people prefer it. Grey goes with more exterior colors, but the tan looks good with either blue or green exterior to me.
we have the same favorite in colors
Surburban as a second car is also a good choice. As we can't afford to register an infinite number of vehicles, we limit ourselves to the two necessary vehicles and soon the oldtimer, which will only be registered seasonally (a fair-weather vehicle)
As we want still stay with non-shiny/non-metallic paint (couldnt convince the family) was a dark green no option. Family dont want to drive a forrest-office truck, the same is here for orange (garbage truck) or red (fire department) - so it remain the blue from the THW. It is maybe also as we have several family-members who are THW-members...
About the interieur - tan is a good combination with green or the blue. We have the grey interieur as we also have grey vinylseats. I tried to got used interieur here but there is nothing on the market. I had to import of USA which make it very expensive about the size. So we stay with grey and let the seats done by upholstery.
We had the bench and the complete Dashboard, doorpanels, sunvisors done here for our Chevy. About the Oldtimer value was it impossible to change the color or the design.
with no oldtimer restrictions i had let stich a big Chevy sign on the front
before... - the color comes not clear around - the new bench have the same color like the old one.
We choosed of a bunch of possibilities - its Mercedes car leather from the 70ths
With the Sierra seats i have all options open in color and design
But Upholstery will be the last what we will do.
We will go on with the front axle and the engine.
I didnt have made any big reseach for the seats as there is so much others to do before.
I absolutely had to have an American pickup... Now I just have to see how I can expand my knowledge to order the right spare parts. I get along with the technology but ordering the right spare parts is sometimes not easy. Returning imported parts is very time-consuming and expensive. As a rule, it's not worth it. My error rate is currently 1%. It doesn't sound like much, but if you add that to the total amount, it's already around 500 euros in the last three years. That was exactly the reason why the engines gone to an enginebuilder beside the warranty on the build.
Got the Engine home Saturday
and start disambling Sunday
we could notice until now:
EGR seems to be worse or is it normal that this amount on oily deposit is in it
The Turbo run free but have a minimal radial movement
The injectors on the driverside come out without problems
Injector of Cyl 7 shown a little bit heat-markings
We run out of time so that we must stop and the passengerside must wait also the injectorpump
First we need to buy special sockets we didnt have in our toolbox for the exhaust bolts
The engine wasnt ever touched, we find a lot of paintmarkings from the assembling.
The heads are really dry like the enginebuilder said. Only the oilpan is a little bit leaky
And since we are disambling this engine for the first time, we have also documented everything with lots of pictures. There are no instructions anywhere on how the electrics are laid out in detail at the end.
and start disambling Sunday
we could notice until now:
EGR seems to be worse or is it normal that this amount on oily deposit is in it
The Turbo run free but have a minimal radial movement
The injectors on the driverside come out without problems
Injector of Cyl 7 shown a little bit heat-markings
We run out of time so that we must stop and the passengerside must wait also the injectorpump
First we need to buy special sockets we didnt have in our toolbox for the exhaust bolts
The engine wasnt ever touched, we find a lot of paintmarkings from the assembling.
The heads are really dry like the enginebuilder said. Only the oilpan is a little bit leaky
And since we are disambling this engine for the first time, we have also documented everything with lots of pictures. There are no instructions anywhere on how the electrics are laid out in detail at the end.
The deposits from the EGR look pretty normal. The soot from the EGR won't build up much, but if oil vapor from the PCV is also coming in to the intake, soot will stick to that and build up thicker over time.
If you do a PCV reroute it will help prevent future buildup, if that is legal in your area. Or at least a catch can will help.
Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk
If you do a PCV reroute it will help prevent future buildup, if that is legal in your area. Or at least a catch can will help.
Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the fast reply.
It is the first time we have to handle an engine with EGR.
Our Volvos (Turbo-Diesel Engines) be in Service in a Volvo Shop...
Former Cars was gas engines.
I will check about PCV reroute.
We will examine the engine very carefully and replace any suspicious parts, as we plan to tune it moderately.
This is 227,000 miles on the LBZ I purchased.
and i was worried about ours
147000 Miles
So we check and clean it and than the next 147000 can go on