Twins with Twins, Anyone?

[kidturbo]

Sting, I'm also attempting to make these field trips valid business expenses. I would have bought your lunch, then written off the whole day... You missed out on the Callies freebies.

Don't worry, I might run back up and snag them when done.

 

[kidturbo]

Pair of freshly bored and decked LML blocks arrived last Thursday from DHD.

:nanawrench:

 

[TheBac]

God, to have your customer's disposable income...

 

[kidturbo]

That's a great boat name !! :spit:

 

[kidturbo]

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

Boxes arrived today with snow covered piston tops and coned out pins. Also 16 shiny new rods with a freshly narrowed big end. Now if I could just figure out where cylinder #10 is I'd have it made..

atriotic2:

 

[PureHybrid]

Have you ever thought about relief cutting the big end to let oil escape from between the rods? Since it will be sustained high rpm.

 

[kidturbo]

Have you ever thought about relief cutting the big end to let oil escape from between the rods? Since it will be sustained high rpm.

Actually yes. I looked at how several big engine builders do it on high HP gas marine engines. Then I measured that first pair of thinned rods on one of the new Callies cranks. Had about 0.021 clearance between them cut to specs from Jeremy's rod guy. That's right at GM's service limits.

Once we receive the finished cranks there will be plenty more measuring. With this pressurized pin oiling setup, need to consider these implications closer. Have been polling everyone I know running these rods for better data on this setup. Including their designer Curtis H, who explained these drilled bearings I purchased with the rods are all wrong...

Besides being P bearings rather than H, Curtis tells me the drilled hole doesn't belong directly over the hole through center of the rod. Reason for the slot cut shown below, is to allow both crank and rod oiling holes to meet where they align with specific crank angle on the downward stroke. Thus pressurizing the pin only when it's unloaded. Explains that slot..

Also see the tang location after the rods were cut to new journal specs. There isn't much extra meat on these Dmax cranks to begin with. I'd loved to had time to explore a larger main journal dia to increase rod journal overlap as some have suggested. Then your adding some serious meat to that area, more than a mere 0.045 each side by narrowing the rod journal.

 

[IOWA LLY]

So are you still able to use stock width Rod bearings? Or do those have to be cut down as well?

Couldn't Wagler or Callies tell you if there was enough meat in the block to go to a larger main journal?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[PureHybrid]

Cool deal.

Does nobody make a taper grooved upper bearing for those rods?

 

[kidturbo]

When I was at Callies we talked about the main size, but it's not something anyone has done yet far as I know. If so, all those junk blocks out there with spun mains would be usable again. I'd love see someone do the math and try it. Just not enough time on this build, or would I want to test on 2 engines that are not mine.

On the upper grooved bearings, that's what go me on the subject with Curtis. Several sites show that rod with grooved upper. But according to him, it takes away too much bearing surface, and was never tested or designed for it. Nor could I find anyone who's running that grooved bearing. So....

 

[DefiantArms]

How's this coming along? :baby:

 

[kidturbo]

Still waiting on cranks... ETA of Friday.

Looking for one good set of LBZ/LMM heads, two medium duty oil pans, and one med duty rear cover if anyone has those cluttering up a garage.

 

[malibu795]

When I was at Callies we talked about the main size, but it's not something anyone has done yet far as I know. If so, all those junk blocks out there with spun mains would be usable again. I'd love see someone do the math and try it. Just not enough time on this build, or would I want to test on 2 engines that are not mine.

On the upper grooved bearings, that's what go me on the subject with Curtis. Several sites show that rod with grooved upper. But according to him, it takes away too much bearing surface, and was never tested or designed for it. Nor could I find anyone who's running that grooved bearing. So....

Gake banks runs enlarged rod pins on their cranks . To increase rod/main pin overlap.. especially on their stroked crankshaft.. talked to him via fb back in Jan/Feb time frame.. stuff was posted on the company page in june.

https://m.facebook.com/bankspower/p...6355374454/1326572600706151/?type=3&source=54

 

[kidturbo]

Mailbu; that's an interesting take on strengthening. I know Mercedes enlarged the mains on their diesels with good success. Owning one I can say, gotta respect the Germans. However I do like those rods he chose. Ford and Dodge use same design.

While sizing up oil pans and covers yesterday I took some pics of the changes GM made to rear covers on the LML. See pics below of an early medium duty [dirty] and newer LML [clean] water ports going into the blocks. GM added a smaller orifice on the drivers side port to restrict the coolant flow into that half of the block. Guessing they were seeing issues with passenger side cooling to justify the change.

Our cooling approach right now is using a 55gmp electric with the closed loop system. Then feed each bank equally from that electric circulation pump. Hope that resolves any cavitation issues with running high RPM for extended periods.

 

[kidturbo]

Starting mock up process while waiting on that one piece that all this other stuff connect too..

Did receive both Banks intakes last week.

 

[kidturbo]

Finally, first one hot off the lathe... 100+lbs of polished 4330 and tungsten. I sure hope it was worth the wait.

http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/ultra-billet-crankshafts/ultra-billet-duramax/

 

[DAVe3283]

Sweet! Looking forward to more pics as you build them up!

Sent from my FlashScan V2

 

[kidturbo]

88.4lbs is what the scale says an internal balanced billet crank weights in at..

Add 8 shiny 5lb piston and rod combo's brings us up to 128lbs of rotating mass, not counting flywheel and harmonic balancer. I know the flywheels will be right at 75lbs, so with the balancer lets round it all up to an even 230lbs of spinning steel. If that don't dampen some harmonics, I don't know what will... :spit:

You can also see where I had the Malory tack welded into the throw's before final balance. They claimed pressing them in with loctight has been the standard for years. But with the crank setting only 5 inches from the bottom of the boat, I wanted a little extra insurance it doesn't grenade without warning.

Also look at the new timing gear (optional) andd nice lead in chamfer on the mains. These cranks are actually polished so fine you can even photograph them without a glare. LOL

 

[kidturbo]

The rod clearance came in right where we wanted. Which I'm still amazed how we accomplished that without first having the cranks.

Lastly, block was decked 005, piston cut 010, and they still managed to stick out 001...

Rings are cut, clearance testing is done, head are off to the machine shop. So now it's time to give everything a final cleaning and assemble it for real. After keeping him till 1AM test fitting everything, my engine builder left for a weeks vacation... He wasn't getting out of town till I knew nothing needed tweaked.

 

[kidturbo]

Came home tonight to find a couple tubes marked FRAGILE left at the door. That's the last of the rotating pieces since second crank arrived yesterday.

Securing a pair of AF cams on short notice proved to be about as hard has buying 2 billet cranks.

Gonna give Jeremy's stage one's a try. He had two on the shelf, and actually has people who answer the phone... Even gave me some specs about the grind before I bought them. Freaking Amazing.

:thumb: