Heads are stock. Still got the cups too
I just hand ported mine put an angle on all the ports and valve springs screw In cups that's it
Why so hot
- Thread starter hondarider552
- Start date
I just hand ported mine put an angle on all the ports and valve springs screw In cups that's it
This is why pulling classes above 2.6 need/allow water inj. And like someone said earlier, they're not using snow performance :spit:
I'm not sure what hp and boost pressure has to do with atomization of water/meth. I thought it has more to do with pump/line pressure and nozzle size/design but what do I know. I think Snow sells multiple pumps with different pressures etc. I'm not saying you need to buy a Snow kit. All I know is from personal experience the Snow MPG Max kit worked great in my application. It was close to a stock truck so I could see why it would help me better than a high hp truck but I'm sure it would help. If your problem is high EGTs and water/meth helps than I would call that fixing it. JMOP
^^^:thumb:
6488 cam, springs and some port and polish work along with manifolds and uppipes and an intercooler would keep you closer to 1600-1800* egt depending on the timing and duration you're running. You'll drop some boost pressure along with drive pressure and make the same if not more powa too! I assume you've already got a solid 3" Y-bridge.
Water meth is a bandaid waiting to pull free at Bri's performance level
Your truck sounds awesome man:hug:
How do you know that would get him down to 1600*?
lol I was thinking the same thing. I'm sure it would help but to put a number on it is impossible.
I live vicariously through others experiences....:roflmao:
Science works. Read son....
He's running 1000hp on stock heads, cam, manifolds/pipes and intercooler
Who does that? For that alone Brian deserves his own performance badge of accomplishment
Given adequate tuning, do you know those parts wouldn't lower the egt's to that extent...? Nice of you to quote the lower # provided:thumb:
Granted, We can't see what his egt's are peaking at, but that's only an approximate 300* drop from what he's running now
and closer to being in an acceptable egt range for that power level with a big sig.His drive pressures are high and his exhaust gasses are bottlenecked, regardless of egt's he needs to move them faster and more efficiently, the parts might not keep him out of the 2000* mark but they wouldn't be hanging ther like they are now
I have a stock Y bridge.
He's running 1000hp on stock heads, cam, manifolds/pipes and intercooler
Who does that? For that alone Brian deserves his own performance badge of accomplishment
Many people did that before me, I don't deserve anything other than to smile.
First thing I will be doing is an intercooler, but that wont be till after the summer. I'll just turn it down and enjoy it like I want to. I don't need to keep hurting the truck because I like going fast, that's childish. I kept saying all I wanted was 10.99 and 850rwhp, and I exceeded those greatly. I think I'll do the easier route and call it a day.
Here's what is stock:
pistons (cut .015 and delipped)
Heads (has Hamilton springs)
Pushrods
cam
manifolds/uppipes
intercooler
trans shafts
Factory lockup, no lockup box
flexplate/balancer
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I don't know if this has been suggested but I had a friend unfortunately he drove a Dodge, but he was fighting high egt's for a long time only to find out his guage was not reading correctly. When it was new it seemed to read normally but suddenly started to read about 400 deg. higher than normal.
His manifolds/up pipes glow orange on a 1/4 mile pass. The gauge is working haha
Opps! just skimmed over previous post.
Street tune dead stop no boost rolling into throttle. it's 1400Us
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201749173754455&set=vb.1334343667&type=2&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201749173754455&set=vb.1334343667&type=2&theater
I know it's not something we want. But if pullers do it and live, what's so bad about it on a strip?
Or don't make a 1000hp on a stock motor. The reason others aren't seeing well over 2000* is because they have all of the upgrades that go along with that kind of power. The only exception is in pulling where the rules force you to run extreme fueling to achieve victory.
I have a stock Y bridge.
Many people did that before me, I don't deserve anything other than to smile.
First thing I will be doing is an intercooler, but that wont be till after the summer. I'll just turn it down and enjoy it like I want to. I don't need to keep hurting the truck because I like going fast, that's childish. I kept saying all I wanted was 10.99 and 850rwhp, and I exceeded those greatly. I think I'll do the easier route and call it a day.
Here's what is stock:
pistons (cut .015 and delipped)
Heads (has Hamilton springs)
Pushrods
cam
manifolds/uppipes
intercooler
trans shafts
Factory lockup, no lockup box
flexplate/balancer
That's awesome! Very similar to my truck. How much nitrous did you have to pour to her to get her in the 10s?
I just fail to see the problem if it's just on the track or doing a hard pull that it goes so high. I wouldn't do it on long street race because that'd be too high for the lengthy street race but IDT the engine will melt down if it only sees those temps so rarely.
But, for now, you're right to turn it down if it helps you feel more comfy about it. How far do you think you hafta turn it down to see comfortable numbers on the street? Strip?
But, for now, you're right to turn it down if it helps you feel more comfy about it. How far do you think you hafta turn it down to see comfortable numbers on the street? Strip?
It ran 11.11 @ 128 on #2 @ 800rwhp so I spray another 150 shot or so
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