Who makes a downpipe?

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
10,152
0
36
57
San Angelo
Pics of new downpipe and missing Egr stuff :D
 

Attachments

  • 2007_0824downpipe0006.JPG
    2007_0824downpipe0006.JPG
    89.7 KB · Views: 26
  • 2007_0824downpipe0008.JPG
    2007_0824downpipe0008.JPG
    95.2 KB · Views: 21
  • 2007_0824downpipe0007.JPG
    2007_0824downpipe0007.JPG
    105.1 KB · Views: 24

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
10,152
0
36
57
San Angelo
My gauge is fubarred, or it makes one hell of a difference. My gauge will almost immediately drop from say in town driving with egts showing about 650 deg. to a little under 300 deg. within seconds of stopping at a light. I'm calling it a bad gauge, i'll be replacing it soon. Initial throttle response seems better, and it seems to be running better, but I also put bigger boosts tubes and the egr delete kit on at the same time. I also put on the stack seal and nose shroud kit, with a combination of all this, my IAT's are 100% better, staying around 5 - 6 degrees above outside temp while highway driving, and although it goes up when stopped at a light, they come down quickly. That damn fan doesnt come on near as much as it used to. The IAT's are constantly monitered with my Scan Gauges.
 

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
10,152
0
36
57
San Angelo
Boost tubes are the intercooler pipes, I bought them used, I imagine they are the Banks, they are quiet a bit larger than stock. The EGR is from PPE, I'll send you a PM about that. The downpipe is the Diamond Eye.
 

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
10,152
0
36
57
San Angelo
How hard was it to put in?
It came in while my truck was at the dealer for a warrantied water pump. The dealer charged $175 to install the turbo pipe, the larger boost tubes, and now he has to stand behind the work:D I didnt have to lift a finger. The Egr delete was pretty simple, would have taken a couple of hours, but some dumbass :eek: dropped a nut down the hole that the intake riser sits on, so I lost a few extra hours there.........Thanks Mike for the assistance there..:D
 
Jun 28, 2007
3,259
0
0
NE Pa
After looking at some pictures someone posted of the stock downpipes, I'm not even sure the flange is stainless. It looks like a cast material of some sort.

I haven't looked at one, but even if it is cast 309, 316, or inconel would work. When welding cast though I usually use a "nyrod" which has a high nickle content. If it is cast be sure to preheat to 300-400 degrees before welding. "Peening" the weld (hitting it with a slag pick to put little dents in it) will make it ugly but works wonders to strees relive it so it won't crack. And probably the most important part about welding cast is the postheat (bringing the temp. down slowly after welding). Its best to wrap it with some old welding gloves or insulation to control the heat loss.
Hope this helps. If anyone is going to try to make one and needs help, feel free to pm me since I am a boilermaker and make my living welding.
 

ecc_33

Junior Member
Aug 10, 2006
1,925
0
0
38
Amanda, Ohio
i would suggest just saving for a bigger charger rather than wasting time and money installing a "bigger down pipe"....If you can do it ....put some more air to it if your scared of EGT'S....if not play at will:)