LLY: Where To Draw The Line? - Actual Experiences Wanted

[PaIronHead]

I leave mine on the 3rd tune with stock bottom end And it hasn't blown in 2 years. 5th tune is fun as hell but I know what will happen if I drive on it everyday. You just have to be smart about it like all the other guys said.


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[Awenta]

I never leave #5 anymore.

Although tune 4 was much better on fuel


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[04LB7yz]

I dont know if any of you have the answer to this but i started the truck a little bit ago after the retune and its running 26.1k desired is 5.7k frp... what could be causing this?

 

[Chevy1925]

Stuck fpr or broke wire to the fpr

 

[04LB7yz]

Can i check it with a test light?

 

[04LB7yz]

Just to clarify the fpr is an lbz on a 10mm s&s correct? The stock lly conector plugged right in is that correct?

 

[Chevy1925]

No, you would need a colt meter to check for 5v power to the fpr and an ohm meter to check for a break in the wire between ecm and fpr.

 

[Chevy1925]

Just to clarify the fpr is an lbz on a 10mm s&s correct? The stock lly conector plugged right in is that correct?

Lly will connect to the lbz reg. Dmax tuner should have adjusted for the different regulator as most times the lbz reg needs tune tweaking to make it idle smooth but I've very rarely seen them peg rail pressure when not tuned right.

 

[WolfLMM]

Just to clarify the fpr is an lbz on a 10mm s&s correct? The stock lly conector plugged right in is that correct?

This is correct. Like James said, most likely broke wire, stuck, or bad connector.

 

[04LB7yz]

Dumb question but will the lly fpr work for the 10mm?

 

[Chevy1925]

Dumb question but will the lly fpr work for the 10mm?

You would need to call the place that modded it and see if the stock lly reg will restrict the pump. You also need to know if dmax tuner tuned the fpr. If they did, putting the stock one I could cause more bizzar issues

 

[04LB7yz]

Its an s&s pump that i bought from corbin

 

[Burn Down]

The FPR plug has two connectors IIRC, make sure the one further up the harness didn't come unplugged. No codes?

 

[clrussell]

Let me know what you get figured out. I'll help ya out as much as I can.

 

[Jakemax04]

Built trans, max effort tune, water meth and I'm about 520hp.(12.6-12.7 sec 1/4 at the track) Stock turbo and injectors and she's pretty damn fast on the street. I'd say 520 hp is pretty reliable (it has been so far),therefore I'll leave it alone. The way I look at it, to put the thousands of dollars into it to get it into the 11's isn't worth the risk of blowing it up. Especially a daily driver. Then again if I had lots of expendable income I wouldn't worry at all, and when it blew I'd just build it. It all comes down to money.

 

[04LB7yz]

Just to update everyone.

I checked the wires and couldn't see any breaks or problems with it. So I decided to pull the reg out and check it out. Then I pulled my LLY reg out of my stock pump which only had roughly 20k on it and looked for differences. I couldn't find any then I measured all the holes and sizes with a caliper and they matched. So I decided to put the LLY reg in the 10mm. I got it all back together and fired it up and it ran smooth as can be with no weird rail pressure readings. Desired and actual are pretty much spot on. The only thing that seems weird is if I am cruising with light throttle input with say 10k rail pressure and let off quickly it will creep up to 11k and then slowly drop down to desired.

 

[clrussell]

Got ya a new lbs regulator on the way to me

 

[04LB7yz]

Got ya a new lbs regulator on the way to me

Awesome! Thanks boss!

 

[04LB7yz]

So... it seems that 75k miles and just over 3 years was the magic recipe for bottom end failure at that 700hp mark... Compression test shows cylinder 5 at 250psi and #4 at 300psi... all others 350+. I have not torn it apart yet but should know more by the weekend. The engine is ready to come out, just need another hand to help remove it from the truck.

Truck was definitely not babied, regularly towed 12k and would frequently see over 50psi of boost. I am definitely bummed out but cant complain to much I think it had a good run.

Thinking of buying a set of LML rods to replace the shortened ones. I dont plan to add any power as it currently has plenty for what I need it for. Just wondering if the LML rods will hold up better? Also does anyone know the weight difference between the older rods and the LML? Will the crank balance with them? I'd like to get this thing back up and running ASAP and not throw my entire bank account at it....:roflmao:

 

[Chevy1925]

So... it seems that 75k miles and just over 3 years was the magic recipe for bottom end failure at that 700hp mark... Compression test shows cylinder 5 at 250psi and #4 at 300psi... all others 350+. I have not torn it apart yet but should know more by the weekend. The engine is ready to come out, just need another hand to help remove it from the truck.

Truck was definitely not babied, regularly towed 12k and would frequently see over 50psi of boost. I am definitely bummed out but cant complain to much I think it had a good run.

Thinking of buying a set of LML rods to replace the shortened ones. I dont plan to add any power as it currently has plenty for what I need it for. Just wondering if the LML rods will hold up better? Also does anyone know the weight difference between the older rods and the LML? Will the crank balance with them? I'd like to get this thing back up and running ASAP and not throw my entire bank account at it....:roflmao:

yes it will balance. I would look more for LBZ/LMM to support the wrist pin more. Not that LML's wont work but i have not really seen them show to be much better than LBZ/LMM.

id look at this two ways if you want to do this cheap and dirty.

Either pull just the rods, throw the new ones in and stab it all back together with a new set of rod bearings and call it done (maybe rings if you want to splurge)

OR

Tear the engine down, have the pistons delipped, balance the rotating assembly and have the crank/cam keyed, new bearings, hone job on the cylinders, new rings, new main bolts, probably some other stuff im not thinking of off the top of my head and stuff it all back together with the reg stuff. at that point, you are just missing rods for a short block that would hold 800hp without much issue.