Yep!
Well I guess it's time
- Thread starter hondarider552
- Start date
Yep!
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as we can clearly see, Brian is hold my truck nuts while Hopper performs work with the shaft :angel:
as we can clearly see, Brian is hold my truck nuts while Hopper performs work with the shaft :angel:
Hahaha that shit was so funny
Two things I noticed while pulling the engine...
Missing 1 engine mount bolt, and the rest I broke loose with a 3/8's ratchet, and the balancer bolt was hardly tight... I bought the Lisle tool that holds the flexplate via the bellhousing, and used a 3' breaker bar and hardly any effort to come loose, from what I remember that's NOT supposed to be a easy bolt to break loose...
Looks like im gunna Flinestone it for awhile...
Anyone notice the lack of injector line clamps on the upper valve covers....? "smack my head"
Missing 1 engine mount bolt, and the rest I broke loose with a 3/8's ratchet, and the balancer bolt was hardly tight... I bought the Lisle tool that holds the flexplate via the bellhousing, and used a 3' breaker bar and hardly any effort to come loose, from what I remember that's NOT supposed to be a easy bolt to break loose...
Looks like im gunna Flinestone it for awhile...
Anyone notice the lack of injector line clamps on the upper valve covers....? "smack my head"
take the fly wheel and mid plate off before you put it on the stand!
I remember you telling me that James, ran out of time last night.
Managed to get the driver side valve covers off and remove the injectors... what a pain... every return line bolt was overtorqued, the valve cover bolts didn't have but a few rubber washer isolators on them, had random bolts holding them down, and lastly... every injector hold down bolt on the drivers side came out super easy, no injector cups came out of the heads.
As easy as im taking everything apart, makes it a no brainer as to why it lasted 3 weeks with what I was doing.
Managed to get the driver side valve covers off and remove the injectors... what a pain... every return line bolt was overtorqued, the valve cover bolts didn't have but a few rubber washer isolators on them, had random bolts holding them down, and lastly... every injector hold down bolt on the drivers side came out super easy, no injector cups came out of the heads.
As easy as im taking everything apart, makes it a no brainer as to why it lasted 3 weeks with what I was doing.
I remember you telling me that James, ran out of time last night.
Managed to get the driver side valve covers off and remove the injectors... what a pain... every return line bolt was overtorqued, the valve cover bolts didn't have but a few rubber washer isolators on them, had random bolts holding them down, and lastly... every injector hold down bolt on the drivers side came out super easy, no injector cups came out of the heads.
ouch buddy. did you strip the return bolts or did you do the vise grip deal like we done before?
JUICE GRIPS :woott:
Return lines actually were not tight. I remember my GMC and these were half as tight. Someone was practicing to be a dmax mechanic on mi engine.
Yea, allen socket and vice grips.
Rippin off the passenger side tonight and the water tubes, gunna have both heads off tonight and look and see if I have any Taco's down in there
Return lines actually were not tight. I remember my GMC and these were half as tight. Someone was practicing to be a dmax mechanic on mi engine.
Yea, allen socket and vice grips.
Rippin off the passenger side tonight and the water tubes, gunna have both heads off tonight and look and see if I have any Taco's down in there
I like tacos! :angel:
take good pics of the headgaskets as they are when you pop the head off. im really curious what they look like.
dont forget to spin the crank around and see how short the pistons are from the top :roflmao:
dont forget to spin the crank around and see how short the pistons are from the top :roflmao:
Looks like Walmart inside this engine :roflmao:
Has a copper colored (LML??) headgasket on the passenger side, and a factory black one on the drivers, #4 piston (lowest on comp test @ 200) went swimming, rest of the pistons on that bank look ok, no scratching on the walls.
#1 piston was the worst, found a piece of a ring in the oil pan, and the cylinder wall is all scratched up, but cant feel it with my finger. The top/bowl of the piston looks like the surface of the moon... Pitting all over the piston, starts to look a bit melted. on the head of that cylinder, there appears to be no piston to valve contact, which, to me, indicates it was run on bad injectors for a while, but that's just my .02.
Much to my surprise... I have yet to find a bent rod... Piston protrusion in every hole, I have not measured it, but I know what it looks like with bent rods, and all 8 are the same....
Pics coming.
Has a copper colored (LML??) headgasket on the passenger side, and a factory black one on the drivers, #4 piston (lowest on comp test @ 200) went swimming, rest of the pistons on that bank look ok, no scratching on the walls.
#1 piston was the worst, found a piece of a ring in the oil pan, and the cylinder wall is all scratched up, but cant feel it with my finger. The top/bowl of the piston looks like the surface of the moon...
Pitting all over the piston, starts to look a bit melted. on the head of that cylinder, there appears to be no piston to valve contact, which, to me, indicates it was run on bad injectors for a while, but that's just my .02.Much to my surprise... I have yet to find a bent rod... Piston protrusion in every hole, I have not measured it, but I know what it looks like with bent rods, and all 8 are the same....
Pics coming.
Every injector had this crap on it... ALL cups stayed in the head...
Sorry for the blurred pic on the last ones, Ill get some better ones tomorrow after I pull the rods and pistons out.
#1
Sorry for the blurred pic on the last ones, Ill get some better ones tomorrow after I pull the rods and pistons out.
#1
What did the head look like on that cylinder? When you say it went swimming what do you mean
I saw no piston to valve contact on that cylinder.
went swimming with the coolant...
The "creator" on the far left is 1/8" deep into the side of the piston..
Another thing I found while tearing down this Mystery Block... this guy...
Is that normal for LB7 rods? The 20ish LB7 rods I have in stock have none of that, not one, and only the LBZ/LMM rods have the 1 dimple in them... new style rod?
Look straight to me :rofl:
Lastly, first thing I noticed was all rods/rod caps had scribe marks in them, like the P/O did a bearing roll in or something, rods also look pretty new for the unknown mileage, hell, it may have the 137,000 the truck has on it, I really don't know. I hate to say it, but im very glad the engine showed early signs of failure, because I it didn't, I would be going down the track tomorrow night and could have junked the turbo I just bought...
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But what did the head look like, not the valve? Was it okay? Coulda had something bouncing around in there.
The "creator" on the far left is 1/8" deep into the side of the piston..
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that was disturbing....
i dont know why but it was the first thing that popped in my head when i seen that piston :roflmao: