thanks four the information guys i think ill be goin with the 366
LB7: turbo options
- Thread starter 02ilduramax
- Start date
I've got the II S366 with billet wheel from Henry as well and I really like it. I still have stock CP3 and injectors, just got tuning from Kory Willis and I don't notice any turbo lag compared to the IHI I had.
Now that ported/polished IHI I did before was a lot better than stock and the 366 is even better :thumb:
I think you'll be happy either way you go. I personally like gated turbos but others haven't had any problems with their un-gated setups, it's a preference.
Yellowchevy
Now that ported/polished IHI I did before was a lot better than stock and the 366 is even better :thumb:
I think you'll be happy either way you go. I personally like gated turbos but others haven't had any problems with their un-gated setups, it's a preference.
Yellowchevy
Does the billet wheel flow more air or is it just more durable?
Ever thought about the Danville 72vvt? Have a few running around town and the people who have them love em. If 700 hp is your goal that is well within the turbos map.
The cast wheel in the II366 flows very well so if you want to save money you can. The billet wheel gains more in the dodge setups over the Duramax but you will still have small gains but that's for each there own to judge for the cost.
How long is this price good for on the II366?
if I recall Henry said the entire month of January
I have this Turbo (cast wheel) in my truck. It ran a 12.17 @ 110 in october. If you come to the gtg this weekend you can take it for a spin.....
Where's the gtg at?
Is this safe without head stud's if you keep boost gated lower?
I was going to buy a w/s LB7 turbo from Dts, but this is really temping for the price.
Wayne flyingelvis is running stock head bolts in his and his wastegate isnt turned down at all.
Party is at my house in Villa Grove on Saturday. Pm me for details or check out the Illinois get together thread
I have run this Turbo a year now with zero problems. I just added a bunch more fuel so we shall see if everything holds out the season....
i think ive made up my mind to go with the ii 66mm kit will be ordering from henry hopefully next week
will i need anything special to instal the turbo? im out at school now so i dont have my full toolbox with me and out here in PA i dont know anyone with a garage
Good decision!
Mmmm not really 12mm deep, 17 mm shallow for the turbo base,11mm deep for the new clamp to go on the dp at the turbo a sawzall with a good metal blade or a cut off tool and a pretty good eye to cut your stock exhaust off for the new BD down pipe, Flat blade for the air cleaner,Wrenches to assemble the oil feed line and check valve,19 mm deep to install the oil feed line fitting in the side of the blocl between the filter housing and motor mount on the drivers side,I dont recall what size the oil galley plug is in the side of the block i want to say 17mm.You will get a drivers side dipstick and your going to need a 13mm ratcht wrench or a 13mmdeep well to take the 13mm nuts off that pinch the bracket on the trans dip stick.there is a plastic cover or a plug if you will that covers the drivers side dip stick hole you will need to move this to the passenger side so you can install your new drivers side dip stick(which is a bitch BTW) some teflon paste or teflon tape would be nice for the pipe thread fittings.
what if the exhaust is not stock i have 5in
I have seen 2 types of 5,1 has 5 right off the flangethen 90s and heads back,the other is 4 off the flange 90sruns a foot or so and expands to 5 then runs back this 1 you will be fine if its 5 fight off the flange that will be a bump in the road .....you will ned a small piece of 4 inch unless you can get a 4od to 5 id most are going to be 4id to 5i.d.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/151/151-1046200.pdf SLightly differant turbo same exact install
now that i think of it i think it is 4 at the flange and turns to 5in