Traction bar design for lifted truck that flexes off road.one center bar or two out?

rickcdewitt

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Jun 6, 2017
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Hey guys I'm looking into making some kind of axle wrap control for my truck and could use some feedback on whether or not its a good idea to do a center ladder style bar with a shackle on our trucks?

I've always made that type on smaller lifted trucks to keep articulation and limit bind. My concern is having the axle housing come apart from the weight and torque these trucks have if only supported by the inner side of one axle tube?

I could use rubber bushings and inboard two bars as far as possible?

This truck only tows and offroads a little.sometimes both at the same time,lol.i rip around quite a bit but no drag or pulls.Thoughts? ideas? Thanks guys!
 

Bdsankey

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Two long bars should be fine. If you're going to make them yourself I'd put them as close to the driveshaft angle as possible. I didn't do this BUT I also don't articulate my suspension much/offroad.


I made mine with Ballistic Fab joints and bushings (heim/spherical joints on one end and bushings on the other to limit the bars ability to roll completely).
 

Chevy1925

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the suspension doesnt care about driveshaft angle. its a link setup where we are trying to minimize driveshaft plunge.

the goal would be to have them as parallel to the ground as possible to 0 out anti-squat from the bars. problem is, that doesnt "look good".

unless you are cycling more than what 10-12" stroke shocks can move, the typical two axle wrap bars works well, simple to put on, and dont require a custom crossmember.

the single triangulated setup with shackle is tried and trued as well but i would for sure pre-heat/weld the axle tubes to the center section. its not a bad idea on any high hp truck that will likely see high torque and wheel hop. ive seen guys still twist the pumpkin with the typical two single bars.
 

rickcdewitt

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Bd I'm thinking the angle from front spring eye to center of leaf pack bend point would be the one to follow for reduced bind.maybe johnny joints?

Limo driver i miss my black crew cab, rip! I called it the limo too,haha. Good point on range of travel.i just don't want it to get any worse and tear up logging roads on my friends ranches getting where this boat needs to go

On my old long arm ranger jumper i had some bars that mounted to the top of the axle at a flat angle.worked ok until it got 38's and 60's. I miss that little truck.nothing like hauling ass jumping 6ft+ in the air.
 

Bdsankey

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Feb 1, 2018
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Bd I'm thinking the angle from front spring eye to center of leaf pack bend point would be the one to follow for reduced bind.maybe johnny joints?

Limo driver i miss my black crew cab, rip! I called it the limo too,haha. Good point on range of travel.i just don't want it to get any worse and tear up logging roads on my friends ranches getting where this boat needs to go

On my old long arm ranger jumper i had some bars that mounted to the top of the axle at a flat angle.worked ok until it got 38's and 60's. I miss that little truck.nothing like hauling ass jumping 6ft+ in the air.


The Ballistic Fab joints are just like Johnny Joints BUT are much easier to rebuild.
 

04chase

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Mar 28, 2008
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1f70b29f6dc44348a6a92dff55d7180c.jpg


this is what i did to get max travel and handle 1k torque without issue. very soft deavers dont like that torque. they will turn into an S shape.

this has worked great for me . no wheel hop what so ever
 

rickcdewitt

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The ballistic joints do look pretty awesome. For the price i think it'd be hard to beat the cognito economy kit. 1.75" tubes though.maybe add gussets?

As far as welding the center section to the tubes on my spare rear axle should i remove the r&p(it has a slight seal leak anyway)? Just drain it? I'll do the center bar if it isn't to involved?
 

04chase

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Mar 28, 2008
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its just a ruffstuff hd anti wrap bar.

shackle is up front mounted to the oem crossmember

paint was actually to see if i was still touching the train horn at full compression.