LBZ: Time to build the DD
- Thread starter sterlinLBZ
- Start date
Don't tell me that! Haha. If I wasn't spending all this money I would! Just curious what would you take for it?
Just curious havnt hear a lot about the oval pistons, I kinda skimmed through his post a while back when he was starting them but I'd say the post has a million comments in it now. What's the advantages of a oval instead of the bowl?
It puts less force on the pin where they usually crack and fail iirc.
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Alright I've talked to enough people now, I'm sending the forged back and getting the cast. I'm really hoping the bore is the same so I won't have to pay anymore to get it touched up any!
Yea, defiantly going with the cast. Eric with Mahle really cleared up a lot of doubts i had both ways on the 2. sending the forged back and going with the cast should be starting on putting it together in the next week or so if my rods would hurry up so i could get it all balanced out. ill be posting some pictures as i go on the build.
There are 2 other things I notice in your build..
Are 45% overs going to be enough fuel for what you want in the end?
And I've read that the fluiddampr is good for removing vibration on a non performance engine but an ati would be a better choice in a performance application (is that true?)
Are 45% overs going to be enough fuel for what you want in the end?
And I've read that the fluiddampr is good for removing vibration on a non performance engine but an ati would be a better choice in a performance application (is that true?)
Not real sure I've had the fluid dampener for a while bc my buddy bought it new and sold it to me for pretty much nothing. If I don't like it I'm not out much ill just get a socal or ati balancer. Atleast there on the out side lol. And the 45% is bc I'm still going to be hauling quite a bit with it and don't want to smoke out everybody on the road. As of now I'm not looks for 1,000+ the guy that did my injectors and danville performance said 750 is a safe number to say that I should be at.
The rotating assembly needs to be balanced with a SOCAL/ATI damper, so you won't just be swapping it out if you don't like the fluid dampener. If I were you I'd do a bit more research before I bolted a fluid dampener to my crank, I think you'll find some not so good sides to it.
Okay so. I've looked into the fluid dampener and the socal and ATI, I'm going to have to get my suncoast flywheel and whatever damper I go with balanced to match? Keep in mind this is my first duramax build. I'm trying to get everything together I can. Ill sell my fluid damper and go with one of the others if need be. Has anyone got danville to tune a truckfor them? I'm kind of wondering if they will build me a base toon and email it to me to run my a little before I take it up and ream it on the Dino haha I don't want to hurt it any lol. Has anyone had them do that for them?
I'm in the midst of a performance build myself and after all the reading I've done I don't need any more evidence that the Fluidamper is NOT the one you want on your high dollar engine. I bought the SoCal unit (which I've heard is an ATI with a different sticker) and would urge you to do the same. A buck or two saved could very well lead to thousands lost down the road.
Okay. So what I've been reading the socal is pressed on to make it an integral part of the crank instead of a slip fit balancer to keep the likely ness of shearing the key way on the crank. It dose make more since now. I'm glad I made this post. You guys have really helped me out and I really appreciate it! Thanks!
Hope you cut some deep valve pockets. IIRC stock is around 176/184. If you're not gonna be spinning that motor to the moon with a big single there's no need for that much duration IMO.