Sloppy steering

Noreaster

Active member
Jun 13, 2007
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Cape Cod,MA
Steering has been alittle loose since I put the centerlink on last year, but progressivly gotten worse in the last few weeks. I can turn the wheel 10-2 o'clock without the tires turning. I finally got around the jacking it up, pulling the skidplates & checking for anything loose. Nothing loose.
Ive heard of Moog pitman arms being loose compared to factorys but it was tight on the shaft with no play.
I hoping the steering box isn't on its way out, money I don't want to spend right now. Im going to try adjusting the steering box to see what that does.
Other than that Im scratching my head.
 

Pondsy

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Jan 4, 2008
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Plymouth, MA
I can't say we have the "same" problem, but I can turn my steering wheel the same distance you mentioned before you get noticable movement from the wheels. I also began noticing I fight the crown in the road a little more and the outer edges of my brand new tires were beginning to scallop.

When I got underneith, I couldn't find anything loose either. But, when I raised the front end, there was a lot of side to side play. My Pitman and Idler arms appear to be the problem - along with a need for another alignment.:(

I just got my congnito leveling kit, arms and pit/idle braces in today. I'll let you know if it solves the problem.
 

Pondsy

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Jan 4, 2008
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I shouldn't have said levelng kit actually. I believe his normal recommendation for a leveling kit is longer bilstein shocks, cognito UCAa and maybe the keys.

I already had the shocks and don't think I need keys since I'm not looking to lift it any, just keep it level to clear my 18s and get back the factory aligment specs that I lost cranking the torsions. So really, I'm just buying the UCAs at this point.
 

Noreaster

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Jun 13, 2007
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I already had the shocks and don't think I need keys since I'm not looking to lift it any, just keep it level to clear my 18s and get back the factory aligment specs that I lost cranking the torsions. So really, I'm just buying the UCAs at this point.

I had the longer Bilsteins for awhile, I didn't think they were any better than stock ones I replaced. I bought green keys but couldn't get the stock ones out, so I just cranked those. My buddy has/had the UCAs, he said balljoints don't line up unless you crank green keys all the way. Other problem is fitting in the mounts, some are undersized, some ok & some too big. Im not trying to rain on your parade just letting you know my experiences with that stuff.
 

WanaDmaxsub

Junior Member W/gray hair
Feb 17, 2007
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Pitman and idler went out on my 2wd. Replaced with spicer arms and cognito braces. I was amazed at how much better the steering was. Check the wheel bearings, also a known weak point on these trucks.
 

Pondsy

New member
Jan 4, 2008
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I had the longer Bilsteins for awhile, I didn't think they were any better than stock ones I replaced. I bought green keys but couldn't get the stock ones out, so I just cranked those. My buddy has/had the UCAs, he said balljoints don't line up unless you crank green keys all the way. Other problem is fitting in the mounts, some are undersized, some ok & some too big. Im not trying to rain on your parade just letting you know my experiences with that stuff.

I'll know soon enough.

Pitman and idler went out on my 2wd. Replaced with spicer arms and cognito braces. I was amazed at how much better the steering was. I hope so. Check the wheel bearings, also a known weak point on these trucks. Agreed. I thought I might have had that problem since I've always run larger tires and have had 18X9 hoss rims for the last 10K miles, but they were ok.
 

Pondsy

New member
Jan 4, 2008
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I had the longer Bilsteins for awhile, I didn't think they were any better than stock ones I replaced.

I had no choice but to replace my shocks b/c the old ones literally fell apart. The truck began bouncing uncontrollably on the way home from work one night. Took the shock off the drivers side and it fell apart as soon as the mounting bolt came out and leaked fluid all over the place.

That said - the bilsteins made the ride much firmer (maybe b/c my stockers were junk from the start) and my ass end doesn't bounce around any where near as much as it used to when hitting expansion joints on the highway.
 

Noreaster

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Jun 13, 2007
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I had a stock shock on the RF snap a weld.

I adjusted the steering box, its better, but now I have the infamous straight centerlink with no flat spot in the middle.

I see that your looking at brakes, I did mine last Powerslots & Hawk pads I think it was around $600
 
Last edited:

bronson

(.)(.)
Apr 3, 2008
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Sylvan Lake, AB
Just a thought, but how straight is the geometry between the heim joints and the tie rods? i bent mine pretty bad and the results were similar to what you were describing. New heim joints and an alignment and it was as good as new.
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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Thailand
Steering has been alittle loose since I put the centerlink on last year, but progressivly gotten worse in the last few weeks. I can turn the wheel 10-2 o'clock without the tires turning. I finally got around the jacking it up, pulling the skidplates & checking for anything loose. Nothing loose.
Ive heard of Moog pitman arms being loose compared to factorys but it was tight on the shaft with no play.
I hoping the steering box isn't on its way out, money I don't want to spend right now. Im going to try adjusting the steering box to see what that does.
Other than that Im scratching my head.

I myself have never noticed this....aslong as they are made in USA not Japan