S480/3794 high EGT’s

[Bdsankey]

Man I can’t believe I haven’t been on this forum sooner, the help and advice is fantastic. I spend hours a day sifting forums and learning and see so much hate for people posting but you guys knock it out of the water. Getting to talk to people who actually have fast trucks and know how to wrench on them is a huge help.

I read somewhere people advise to pony up the banks over the BD couldn’t figure out why.

I personally don't think you can go wrong with a Northern Radiator/BD or Banks. My race truck has a Banks and my tow rig has a Northern Radiator/BD.

yeah I was hesitant on doing a full locker and 38 spline, lot of coin that I could put into a crank or rods as my motor is pretty stock other than fuel, studs, pistons and keying.

99.999% of guys don't need the 38 spline setup, but they sure as hell are stout. After seeing what the 4340 30 spline stuff will take I will keep using it until I find the failure point.

My trans was built from the previous owner and has an xcalibur build and goerend. From the paperwork I have it seems like a full build and pretty beefy but I haven’t seen anyone else run them, and while she’s held up to my abuse just fine, I was thinking about asking Dmitri to go through the trans.

Xcalibur/DEFEO, from what I've seen, builds a decent trans but I have no first hand experience with their full built units. I buy a ton of genuine Allison parts through them that I can't get from Goerend and they're (Xcalibur/DEFEO) super helpful. You also can't really go wrong with a Goerend converter. Where are you located? We may be able to point you to a local builder who is reputable VS having to ship a trans.

last question, how about the front diff and axle shafts? Is she going to hold boosted launches over 700?

I’ll try to get some good logs today, it’s raining nonstop so far this week.

The front diff will take just about whatever you want to throw at it. My race truck is the OEM 365k mile gear set with an Eaton e-locker and stock stub shafts/new stock CV shafts.

 

[Creeker15]

I personally don't think you can go wrong with a Northern Radiator/BD or Banks. My race truck has a Banks and my tow rig has a Northern Radiator/BD.



99.999% of guys don't need the 38 spline setup, but they sure as hell are stout. After seeing what the 4340 30 spline stuff will take I will keep using it until I find the failure point.



Xcalibur/DEFEO, from what I've seen, builds a decent trans but I have no first hand experience with their full built units. I buy a ton of genuine Allison parts through them that I can't get from Goerend and they're (Xcalibur/DEFEO) super helpful. You also can't really go wrong with a Goerend converter. Where are you located? We may be able to point you to a local builder who is reputable VS having to ship a trans.



The front diff will take just about whatever you want to throw at it. My race truck is the OEM 365k mile gear set with an Eaton e-locker and stock stub shafts/new stock CV shafts.

Im from western NC near TN and stationed out here on the coast of NC so I go from end to end a lot.Truck will be around pops while I’m deployed and he’ll be taking it to shops for me while I’m gone

 

[Chevy1925]

Man I can’t believe I haven’t been on this forum sooner, the help and advice is fantastic. I spend hours a day sifting forums and learning and see so much hate for people posting but you guys knock it out of the water. Getting to talk to people who actually have fast trucks and know how to wrench on them is a huge help.

I read somewhere people advise to pony up the banks over the BD couldn’t figure out why.

yeah I was hesitant on doing a full locker and 38 spline, lot of coin that I could put into a crank or rods as my motor is pretty stock other than fuel, studs, pistons and keying.

My trans was built from the previous owner and has an xcalibur build and goerend. From the paperwork I have it seems like a full build and pretty beefy but I haven’t seen anyone else run them, and while she’s held up to my abuse just fine, I was thinking about asking Dmitri to go through the trans.

last question, how about the front diff and axle shafts? Is she going to hold boosted launches over 700?

I’ll try to get some good logs today, it’s raining nonstop so far this week.

for one, you came in here with a head on your shoulders and have done your research, all that shows in your posts. Your on the best duramax diesel performance site out there with a wealth of knowledge from some of the top guys in the industry here. What you are looking for help wise is right up our alley and yours.

For rear end, unless you are just absolutely ruthless on your truck with burnouts and crap or doing sled pulls, i wouldnt drop the coin into 38 spline stuff. if you do alot of stuff off road where you are hanging one tire in the air alot and need that full locked traction adder, a locker is best. you just get clicks/pops around corners when off the throttle and some times it wont unlock around corners causing tire scrub. The dodge torsen unit or the eaton trutrac are one in the same, both torsen style limited slips that use worm gears inside to activate. Plus side to this is no clutches to wear out like the g80 or other limited slips. the dodge unit is not "tight" as the eaton trutrac meaning, the dodge unit will spin one tire sooner than the eaton unit as more traction/pressure is applied to one tire. IIRC the dodge unit is a 2:1 torque ration and the eaton is a 3:1 ratio. I would suggest the torsen style unit for street, strip, light off road use.

One other thing to note, if you dont have any billet parts inside the trans, you are more likely to destroy the p2 planet/c2 hub from burn outs into 4th gear or hitting bumps that cause wheel spin as it shifts into 4th gear under big power (the power you are at) and not likely to hurt the rear end once you have a torsen unit in there. i would put my money into trans parts before rear end parts (other than fixing what is broke).

Dimitri is a f**king hack that has attempted to copy the best in the trans busniness with some success. his busniness practices are extremely lack luster and when you have issues with this trans (not if), good luck getting it taken care of. hes a great sales man but he robs peter to pay paul and is an overall douche of a guy. i would rather run an ATS trans over his stuff. Xcaliber is iffy. they are selling trans for cheap and giving them ratings like thats how building a trans works. if you really want to make sure the trans holds up, id have a good shop recommened from here take a look at it. evan at inglewood (elevated ingenuity on here as a vendor) can also ship you a kit for rebuilding it and has excellent repore on taking care of his customers.

 

[Creeker15]

for one, you came in here with a head on your shoulders and have done your research, all that shows in your posts. Your on the best duramax diesel performance site out there with a wealth of knowledge from some of the top guys in the industry here. What you are looking for help wise is right up our alley and yours.

I feel right at home here, this is one vehicle I’m never selling.

For rear end, unless you are just absolutely ruthless on your truck with burnouts and crap or doing sled pulls, i wouldnt drop the coin into 38 spline stuff. if you do alot of stuff off road where you are hanging one tire in the air alot and need that full locked traction adder, a locker is best. you just get clicks/pops around corners when off the throttle and some times it wont unlock around corners causing tire scrub. The dodge torsen unit or the eaton trutrac are one in the same, both torsen style limited slips that use worm gears inside to activate. Plus side to this is no clutches to wear out like the g80 or other limited slips. the dodge unit is not "tight" as the eaton trutrac meaning, the dodge unit will spin one tire sooner than the eaton unit as more traction/pressure is applied to one tire. IIRC the dodge unit is a 2:1 torque ration and the eaton is a 3:1 ratio. I would suggest the torsen style unit for street, strip, light off road use.

Ive done three burnouts in the past year total. Usually just, start the spin and let off the brake.
truck right now is daily’ed but when I get back it won’t be so it’ll be couple times a week and hopefully ready to go the track a few times.
don’t do a lot of burnouts because A. my rev limiter is 4900 and stock crank, water pump and oil pump that’s a lot of R’s and B. I just don’t do a lot of burnouts

One other thing to note, if you dont have any billet parts inside the trans, you are more likely to destroy the p2 planet/c2 hub from burn outs into 4th gear or hitting bumps that cause wheel spin as it shifts into 4th gear under big power (the power you are at) and not likely to hurt the rear end once you have a torsen unit in there. i would put my money into trans parts before rear end parts (other than fixing what is broke).

Those are billet fortunately. When I called the shop that put the trans together (the guy who did it no longer touches diesels so I can’t call back) said the weak points would be intermediate and output shafts, everything else is billet.

Dimitri is a f**king hack that has attempted to copy the best in the trans busniness with some success. his busniness practices are extremely lack luster and when you have issues with this trans (not if), good luck getting it taken care of. hes a great sales man but he robs peter to pay paul and is an overall douche of a guy. i would rather run an ATS trans over his stuff. Xcaliber is iffy. they are selling trans for cheap and giving them ratings like thats how building a trans works. if you really want to make sure the trans holds up, id have a good shop recommened from here take a look at it. evan at inglewood (elevated ingenuity on here as a vendor) can also ship you a kit for rebuilding it and has excellent repore on taking care of his customers.

I had no idea, I’m so glad to be talking to some pro’s and people who know the industry. I’d like to have the trans looked at just for the reassurance I don’t know if anyone could partial builds per say, if this part of the is fine but this part should be upgraded if a shop would do it. Or if the whole thing should just get done.
i had PPE trans tune on the truck for a while and it was the most awful thing I drove. Constantly locking and unlocking the converter. 47mph 2k rpm or more? Locked slamming the rpm’s down regardless of throttle position. Dropping it half an mph and unlocking just to lock back up half an mph more. Made going up hills impossible.
worried that it might’ve damaged the converter, even being a billet triple disc. It doesn’t shutter when locking up and shifts fine except for fourth which FEELS like a trans learn issue as I can manual shift into 4th WOT and it does absolutely fine.
having mark do the trans tune now as his engine tunis sweet.

 

[Creeker15]

Okay just found this

3794 has rattle some bolts off and I’m not seeing any glue.
wheel spins freely, no play no grinding. I’ll go pick up some bolts today. I can see two of 4 visible bolts missing. I believe this could be a contributing factor and glad I caught it before grenadine a turbo.
loctite time

 

[Chevy1925]

yes that will cause a boost leak. pull it off and take the cover off. make sure there is no powdercoat on the sealing surface between the housing and cover. a very very thin film of rtv between the cover and housing isnt a bad idea before putting it back together.

 

[Creeker15]

yes that will cause a boost leak. pull it off and take the cover off. make sure there is no powdercoat on the sealing surface between the housing and cover. a very very thin film of rtv between the cover and housing isnt a bad idea before putting it back together.

I’ve never had one of these apart.
It’s just the arp bolts. I’ll pry it off. Scrape off any glue left (it came glued and bolted). Inspect, a lil rtv and bolt her up.
Am I missing anything?

 

[Chevy1925]

I’ve never had one of these apart.
It’s just the arp bolts. I’ll pry it off. Scrape off any glue left (it came glued and bolted). Inspect, a lil rtv and bolt her up.
Am I missing anything?

nope, should be about right.

 

[Nate’s Dmax]

I’m liking this tread.

 

[countrycorey]

Since he's in North Carlina, could he take it to Dustin (formerly Diesel Addiction)?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Bdsankey]

Since he's in North Carlina, could he take it to Dustin (formerly Diesel Addiction)?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

I don't think Dustin is accepting any work since he closed down Diesel Addiction.

 

[Creeker15]

Well finally got time to take the turbo off and seal it.
gained 5psi and spool time is about the same. Used to be faster. I’ll clean the MAF again.
I redid all my boots except for the plastic passenger side IC piece.
Got a stronger feeling too much boost might’ve hurt the stock intercooler. I could be wrong.
Won’t be able to fix it on my own from here I leave for deployment in about a week, fortunately I’ll have my pops taking it to various shops for various jobs to get done on it. I’ll find someone good and have em pressure test the intake side of things and I have new headers and TT up pipes on the way anyway so if there’s a leak there (i couldn’t find one visually) I then that’ll be an easy fix.

rail pressures looked good on the log. 27k psi @40ish psi boost which is up from 35 but lower and slower then it should be

 

[Bdsankey]

40psi IMO is low for that setup, I wouldn't be surprised if you've got an intercooler leak or another unseen leak that will show up with a pressure test.

 

[Creeker15]

Yeah new bd intercooler seems to be the move anyway.
What everyone’s opinion on vibrant clamps? I talked to a shop and they said they were terrible and I’ve heard they’re better then V bands.
what’s the general consensus?
All my “fast” cars never made enough air to bend v bands and blow off quality boots.

 

[Bdsankey]

A quality boot/clamps, v-band, or vanjen setup will work fine for what you're doing. Boots are the most user-friendly and easiest to replace while on the road followed closely by v-band setups simply because the o-rings are pretty standard as are the clamps.

 

[Creeker15]

A quality boot/clamps, v-band, or vanjen setup will work fine for what you're doing. Boots are the most user-friendly and easiest to replace while on the road followed closely by v-band setups simply because the o-rings are pretty standard as are the clamps.

Yeah all my boots have worked fine except for the one off the valley charger, it's a 2.5 - 3" boot and no matter what I do it blows off, regardless of how great of a clamp I get for it, hairspray anything. Blows off anytime I turn the truck up to five, around 45-50 ish psi. It held up 60+ psi when I first had it on and it blew off and ever since. Sometimes I can get it to hold up for a few pulls but regardless it'll blow off.

So I'm going to have that outlet v banded and never worry about it again.

 

[Bdsankey]

Yeah all my boots have worked fine except for the one off the valley charger, it's a 2.5 - 3" boot and no matter what I do it blows off, regardless of how great of a clamp I get for it, hairspray anything. Blows off anytime I turn the truck up to five, around 45-50 ish psi. It held up 60+ psi when I first had it on and it blew off and ever since. Sometimes I can get it to hold up for a few pulls but regardless it'll blow off.

So I'm going to have that outlet v banded and never worry about it again.

Stock motor mounts? If so I would bet money the driver side mount has separated and is allowing the motor to rock over which is causing the boot to blow. My LLY did this with the Danville 68 stage 2r I had on it years ago. Changed the motor mounts and had no issues after that. You can go to bolted OEM mounts or aftermarket mounts. In my opinion, if your mount is separated, new bolted OEM style mounts are a better option.

 

[Creeker15]

Stock motor mounts? If so I would bet money the driver side mount has separated and is allowing the motor to rock over which is causing the boot to blow. My LLY did this with the Danville 68 stage 2r I had on it years ago. Changed the motor mounts and had no issues after that. You can go to bolted OEM mounts or aftermarket mounts. In my opinion, if your mount is separated, new bolted OEM style mounts are a better option.

They looked good but you're probably absolutely right. I never thought about that, I have solid mounts sitting at the house, I just haven't slapped em on. All the other mounts are solid aside from the poly mount under the transfer case, but it's also new.
What's the difference between bolted OEM vs solid? I've had solid motor mounts in all my fast cars, the vibes never really bother me but also none of them vibrated much other then taking off.

 

[Bdsankey]

They looked good but you're probably absolutely right. I never thought about that, I have solid mounts sitting at the house, I just haven't slapped em on. All the other mounts are solid aside from the poly mount under the transfer case, but it's also new.
What's the difference between bolted OEM vs solid? I've had solid motor mounts in all my fast cars, the vibes never really bother me but also none of them vibrated much other then taking off.

Thats about it. The Merchant/SoCal/etc style motor mounts tend to vibrate more at idle/takeoff/shut down. A bolted stock motor mount will do the same job so if you've already got the Merchant/SoCal/etc style mounts I would just use them myself.

 

[Chevy1925]

They looked good but you're probably absolutely right. I never thought about that, I have solid mounts sitting at the house, I just haven't slapped em on. All the other mounts are solid aside from the poly mount under the transfer case, but it's also new.
What's the difference between bolted OEM vs solid? I've had solid motor mounts in all my fast cars, the vibes never really bother me but also none of them vibrated much other then taking off.

you will gain far more vibrations inside with the solid mounts. the bolted stock mount fixes the issue while inducing more nore vibrations than stock. interior plastic rattles drive me nuts on a daily driver, i wouldnt do them on that kind of setup but its personal preference. Same reason i yanked the poly body mounts out of my truck in a matter of two days because the increase in vibration and noise was terrible.

easy way to tell about the mount is to lift the hood up so you can see the engine from the driver seat, put the truck in 4wd and start to do a boosted launch. make sure no one is in front of you and you have a clear path should something happen with the brakes. watch the engine as you do this and if the mount is bad, you will see the engine jump up 3-4". putting it in reverse and doing the same test will tell you if the pass side mount is bad as well.

if it is bad and you replace it, id really look at the inside of the boot that keeps blowing or just replace it all together. as they blow off, it tears them up internally (sometimes visable, sometimes not) and they start blowing off easier. it shouldnt be blowing as easy as it is now so its most likely a combo of issues like the motor mounts. A new one is a good piece of mind at this point.

as for boost being low or not, thats dependent on tuning (we dont know what mark has in there for tuning on lvl 3) and possibly boost leak. if mark is only commanding a 2k uS on lvl3, 40 psi doesnt sound far off. if hes commanding 2.5k uS, well then 40psi is low. Log your truck at WOT and see what the highest pulse width is on lvl 3 and take note. you can do the same on lvl 5 and it will give us an idea of the size tunes you have. max timing and what the vave position is at would help as well. We are looking for the numbers ONLY at WOT, between 2800-3200rpm, 3rd gear and up, no tire spinning, and no chopping throttle or doing werid stuff. gotta be a clean run.