Q & A Time - Traction Bars

[LBZ]

:hello: I am looking at building a set of bars for my truck for pulling. Now I have done a bunch of reading over at DP and learned a lot, but I still have some questions. I only want to do this once due to time constraints, and the fact that I'm lazy So I thought I would come and ask the professionals

1. Where to mount on the axle? Bottom of the U-Bolt plate? Weld directly to the axle?

2. What kind of joints to use? I have heard HEIM's are good, I have heard they are bad. What is the general consensus here?

3. How thick of material and how big of a diameter should I use? Square tubing? Pipe? Solid cold rolled bar? (Weight isn't a real issue-it's a pulling truck and there are no weight class restrictions in my area)

4. How long should the bars be on a CCSB? I have read that you need to make them just long enough so that they are on the same angle as the driveline. Others run them to the front door. I know if you muff this part up, you will bind up your suspension. How is this affected if you throw a load on or take weight off?

Thanks guys for your input.

 

[Turbotug]

:hello: I am looking at building a set of bars for my truck for pulling. Now I have done a bunch of reading over at DP and learned a lot, but I still have some questions. I only want to do this once due to time constraints, and the fact that I'm lazy So I thought I would come and ask the professionals

1. Where to mount on the axle? Bottom of the U-Bolt plate? Weld directly to the axle?

2. What kind of joints to use? I have heard HEIM's are good, I have heard they are bad. What is the general consensus here?

3. How thick of material and how big of a diameter should I use? Square tubing? Pipe? Solid cold rolled bar? (Weight isn't a real issue-it's a pulling truck and there are no weight class restrictions in my area)

4. How long should the bars be on a CCSB? I have read that you need to make them just long enough so that they are on the same angle as the driveline. Others run them to the front door. I know if you muff this part up, you will bind up your suspension. How is this affected if you throw a load on or take weight off?

Thanks guys for your input.

1 & 2--I have CalTracs on my truck. I'm not totally sold on their ability to solve traction issues, but for a DD truck that hits the strip once in a while they work. They use Heim joints, and other than a shot of paraffin based lube every now and then they are da chit. They use a mount that is welded to the U-bolt plate, which is nice 'cause it is WAY easier to replace those than the axle housing. For a pulling based truck it might be easier to mimic the plate mount and then weld something to the frame further forward. My set up is a bit noisy, however it is a tad installer error. You MUST have the CalTrac spring bushings perfectly in the center of the spring eye or else they rub and squeak.

3-- I'd use round tube if Heim joints are prefered. The threaded bungs are easier to get for round. Thickness, sorry.. Best to concider with the overall length of bar. Let your pocket decide if DOM or welded seam tube is best for your project. I buy a LOT of welded tube..

4-- Uh, good luck. Like I said I run CalTracs.

I can take pics of the u-bolt mount if needed.

 

[NemesisDP]

:hello: I am looking at building a set of bars for my truck for pulling. Now I have done a bunch of reading over at DP and learned a lot, but I still have some questions. I only want to do this once due to time constraints, and the fact that I'm lazy So I thought I would come and ask the professionals

1. Where to mount on the axle? Bottom of the U-Bolt plate? Weld directly to the axle?

2. What kind of joints to use? I have heard HEIM's are good, I have heard they are bad. What is the general consensus here?

3. How thick of material and how big of a diameter should I use? Square tubing? Pipe? Solid cold rolled bar? (Weight isn't a real issue-it's a pulling truck and there are no weight class restrictions in my area)


4. How long should the bars be on a CCSB? I have read that you need to make them just long enough so that they are on the same angle as the driveline. Others run them to the front door. I know if you muff this part up, you will bind up your suspension. How is this affected if you throw a load on or take weight off?

Thanks guys for your input.

X2 I will be pulling for the first time may 10th. Sleds have not been in town for 20 years. Any cheats to help me out? Custom EFI tune? (Pat) Just brush pullin. I will us the 06 cclb.

 

[LBZ]

Thanks Brandon. As I am a picture munger, pics would be great.
In an old DP thread I was reading, there was some argument/discussion back and forth about the Caltrac's being noisey, and apparently some have broken springs on trucks that have gone off roading. Any input on these issue's??

 

[LarryJewell]

Thanks Brandon. As I am a picture munger, pics would be great.
In an old DP thread I was reading, there was some argument/discussion back and forth about the Caltrac's being noisey, and apparently some have broken springs on trucks that have gone off roading. Any input on these issue's??

My Caltracs are noisey, not sure why though

 

[TheBac]

The bars I've seen made use a semi-trailer track bar cut in half, with the halves then welded into the ends of larger dia, longer round stock. Use a standard GM truck leafspring mount for the front and make a mounting plate for the axle that bolts to the U-bolts. The bars are still adjustable at the front.

IIRC, someone once told me you wanted your traction bars to mimic the angle of your driveshaft. I think on a crewcab that would make the bars come to about the middle of the rear doors.


If I ever need a set of bars, this is the way I will go.

 

[Ben46a]

Heims wont allow any movement like bushings would. Make them as long as you can. At least the centre of the rear doors. Heavy wall DOM .375 or .500 will be good and sturdy and not flex. Weld brackets tot he u bolt plate a-la caltracs. As for caltracs, i found them unsatisfactory for anything but playing on the street. Mine actually pulled apart after a year and a half and i removed them. heres a good spot for inexpensive rod end kits. http://www.qscomponents.com/index.html

 

[Turbotug]

Thanks Brandon. As I am a picture munger, pics would be great.
In an old DP thread I was reading, there was some argument/discussion back and forth about the Caltrac's being noisey, and apparently some have broken springs on trucks that have gone off roading. Any input on these issue's??

I'll get ya pic this afternoon while I'm out putting the charger back on.

I don't run the bolts that actually load the bars unless I'm at the track, so mine are just hanging out most of the time. The heims on mine aren't what makes the noise. Like I was saying, the pivot bracket hits the spring itself. A shot of lube every now and then kills the squeak tho.

 

[Turbotug]

 

[Bluemax]

I use the semi trac arms, they have rubber bushings that make no noise. I went to the local tractor supply store and bought two pieces of 1in black gas pipe and hammered in the trac arms and welded them. It's adjustable on both ends on either side, just loosen the bolts on each end and turn the bar. No need to take the ends off. Mine are welded on the u-bolt plates and are long enough to follow the drive shaft angle. Some people don't like the way the front of mine are mounted but they have been that way for a long time and if they were going to break they would have by now IMO. They have been Through god only knows haw many boosted launches and truck pulls, including a few pulls in the 2wd class and they have never even flexed. I have seen these bars mounted just like mine pulling the sled with over 700hp plus nitrous without bending so I'm not worried about my truck breaking them.

 

[othrgrl]

Mine go to right after where the frame straightens out. If you are building track bars for an offroad truck with lots of suspension flex than the pivot points on the track bars rod ends) should have the same center to center measurements as the pivots on the driveshaft (u-joints) and they should run parallel to the D-shaft. On a 3/4 ton truck that isn't flexing it's suspension over obstacles offroad this isn't as important. I leave mine on most of the time and have them cranked pretty tight. I have no wheel hop and they did great sled pulling last night - rear didn't squat too much even without extended bump stops.

 

[NemesisDP]

Thanks for the pic's they help out alot. How about blocks for they rear any pic's? Or just air up the air bags? What psi in bags? Any thing else that I need to do to the truck?

 

[Bluemax]

If the rules allow it, you'll want to run solid blocks for the rear. The ones I made are just 2x3 rectangle tubing welded to a piece of 1/8in flat steel. I took the factory bump stop off and bolt these in there place. It takes all of 5 min to put them on and take them off, and if you wanted to you could make them adjustable with about ten more minutes of work by getting a piece just small enough or big enough to go in or outside of that and drill some holes in it every inch or so.

 

[NemesisDP]

Thanks for the info. No rules for the local guys just trying it out.

 

[LBZ]

Thanks all!! I don't see anything wrong with your set-up Kevin. To be honest with you, I have seen KW's with the same principle, and actually I was thinking of doing the same.

You mentioned loading the bars Brandon, what do you mean by that? Extending them till the tighten up? By pushing the bottom of the axle towards the rear?

I can't block my axle as I have bags in my truck. They should be ok though.

I think I have an idea now of how to do mine. I'll post some pics when it's all done. Thanks Again!

 

[GRAYAREA]

I have a set of bars and axle brackets ready to go if you are interested

Pm me if you want them and i can see about shipping them out to you i work for fed ex i get a very good deal on shipping

Me and my friend josh built the ones on bluemaxs truck and he is the one who built the pullin hitch on rhalls truck

Here is some of his work as you can see very nice quality

 

[Bluemax]

You mentioned loading the bars Brandon, what do you mean by that? Extending them till the tighten up? By pushing the bottom of the axle towards the rear?

I can't block my axle as I have bags in my truck. They should be ok though.

I'd say that's what he meant by loading, that's what I call it anyway.

Why do you say you can't block the axle? Is it a rule or just because you have the bags in that spot? If it's just the placement of them I'd sure try to figure out a spot for them, maybe on top of the springs or something, I've seen it done like that also. It will make a huge difference with it solid. I know a lot of people do it without, but you can never get enough air in them to hold it where you want it to be. It's almost impossible to keep it from bouncing without it being solid. It pretty easy to make them and well worth the half hour it takes to make them for the piece of mind that you don't have to worry about twisting the drive line or an axle or something.

 

[Bluemax]

Me and my friend josh built the ones on bluemaxs truck and he is the one who built the pullin hitch on rhalls truck

Here is some of his work as you can see very nice quality

:cop: Correction... Josh built half, I built half and you drank beer.....:thumb:

 

[LBZ]

Ya the bags are in place of the bump stops. But I guess I could bolt to the side of the frame. Do you make it a solid connection? Or could i Just air my bags up to get my 26", install the block, and then let all the air out of the bags? or would it bounce too much and break stuff? I'm about 6" low without my hitch installed, but I have adjustment on my hitch so I could preload the block quite a bit.

 

[LBZ]

That's some mighty fine welding. Is that set-up you have Grayarea the same as Kevin's?? Do you have a lower U-bolt saddle with the brackets already welded? This is for a CCSB with a 6" lift. I think I may need to cut my own bars, but I could use the ends.