LBZ: My turn has come...

[DaJokr]

Conversion costs are going to kill me, if duties at border don't first. Let's shoot for a lower hp goal for now and see where I am at in 5 years maybe lol. I've been dailying on a 150 tune from Kory, might run it on a 230 daily after but realistically it's likely to be a 150.

New keyed crank - from LML or aftermarket?
Rods - carillos? Crowed? Wagler?
Pistons - Mahle? Fingers? Lb7?
Injectors - stock? 30's? 60's? 100's?
Cp3 - sportsman? 10mm
MA motor mounts?
*ARP head studs*
Keep stock turbo and compound with s475 down the road? Or just upgrade to the 68mm and call it a day?

I'm by no means an expert so that's why I'm throwing this all on here for you to see and tweak my thinking. The more power, the more expensive. My goal has always been to hit 12's in a quarter, and to do compounds.

My tranny is good for 600ish hp so it's the limiting factor for now...that won't change anytime soon. Suncoast, 1058, with mike recommended valving changes.

I'm thinking 60 overs but can a sportsman handle that? Is it enough for the 68mm or even the s475 over stock? Will I need the stroker to meat the demand of the injectors? Bigger is better if it's not to big right? All depends on the tuning.

I'm just going to assume replacing the crank should be a given and that there is no reason other then lbz cranks have broke in the past under stock trucks.

Headstuds simply because I'm gonna have it all apart anyways.

A shop is doing all the work so every extra is a huge expense to me

 

[Chevy1925]

leave every bit of bolt on part outside of the engine alone at this point (fuel, mounts, etc) and build the engine to the best dollar amount you can. You can always add these things like injectors, cp3 (or duals), engine mounts, manifolds/up pipes and so on later on. the engine you cant do this to and will cost you a pretty penny when 2-3 years down teh road you are trying to push more power than the motor was built for and you will be asking us "do you guys think this will be safe?"

either have your stock crank checked over or use a new LML. Manly rods get my vote. Fingers pistons at min (nothing else). If you can, swing for a narrowed journal bearing crank. then do teh normal main studs, head studs, machine work, keying everything, and new better bearings.

 

[DaJokr]

Ok. I have to replace the injectors anyways which was why I was looking to do them and the pump. At 400k the pump was starting to get a little weak, and I hated hitting the rpm limiter on it.

 

[zakkb787]

leave every bit of bolt on part outside of the engine alone at this point (fuel, mounts, etc) and build the engine to the best dollar amount you can. You can always add these things like injectors, cp3 (or duals), engine mounts, manifolds/up pipes and so on later on. the engine you cant do this to and will cost you a pretty penny when 2-3 years down teh road you are trying to push more power than the motor was built for and you will be asking us "do you guys think this will be safe?"

either have your stock crank checked over or use a new LML. Manly rods get my vote. Fingers pistons at min (nothing else). If you can, swing for a narrowed journal bearing crank. then do teh normal main studs, head studs, machine work, keying everything, and new better bearings.

James what are those Manley rods good for? I can't find specs anywhere. Comparable to Carrillo?

 

[Chevy1925]

Ok. I have to replace the injectors anyways which was why I was looking to do them and the pump. At 400k the pump was starting to get a little weak, and I hated hitting the rpm limiter on it.

send your injectors to a reputable place that can have them tested before assuming they are junk. Some guys thought they caused the piston to crack from sticking open and it wasnt the case . your CP3 still makes plenty of pressure to make the truck run and its an easily accessible to change out in the future. you need to think smart about this. putting a crank, rods, pistons in and all the rest of the internal goodies does NOT mean you must run big fuel and so on. for what your after, its still going to run on just fine on stock stuff. you just have the potential for more and the reliability to go with it if done right

James what are those Manley rods good for? I can't find specs anywhere. Comparable to Carrillo?

No, not comparable to carrillo. Guy gives them the green light for 1000hp engines but there are a few people here pushing a couple hundred more than 1000hp on them without issue.

 

[DaJokr]

Costs definitely run up fast, and the fact it's not as simple as just swapping one out and one in means labor prices will go through the roof. I'm honestly crossing my fingers the cylinder is ok. Would make things a lot less complicated. either way it's gotta come outta the truck, damnit.

 

[fc8464]

Cost do add up fast and then you hope you find a good machine shop. When its time for me I will be getting a built short block from SOCAL and starting their.

 

[zakkb787]

send your injectors to a reputable place that can have them tested before assuming they are junk. Some guys thought they caused the piston to crack from sticking open and it wasnt the case . your CP3 still makes plenty of pressure to make the truck run and its an easily accessible to change out in the future. you need to think smart about this. putting a crank, rods, pistons in and all the rest of the internal goodies does NOT mean you must run big fuel and so on. for what your after, its still going to run on just fine on stock stuff. you just have the potential for more and the reliability to go with it if done right



No, not comparable to carrillo. Guy gives them the green light for 1000hp engines but there are a few people here pushing a couple hundred more than 1000hp on them without issue.

What do those rods run? I found them online around $2300. Why not spend $300 more for carrillos? Unless my pricing was off. Just asking for personal reference.

To the op, why not spend that money you planned on spending on the new motor and labor on a temporary new truck?

 

[DaJokr]

If I get a temp truck mine won't get fixed. I either do it now or not at all.

I wish I had a shop I could do it all in myself. So many things I could spend the cost of labour on instead.

 

[Chevy1925]

At some point, you guys will learn you can get better pricing when you call our vendors here and see what they can do for you being dd residents

 

[zakkb787]

At some point, you guys will learn you can get better pricing when you call our vendors here and see what they can do for you being dd residents

I know this lol I just don't have the money right now and don't wanna bother anyone asking which now I see sounds stupid because I already did. Oh well.

 

[WVRigrat05]

If I get a temp truck mine won't get fixed. I either do it now or not at all.

I wish I had a shop I could do it all in myself. So many things I could spend the cost of labour on instead.

I did my LLY in my yard with bare minimum tools, just depends on how bad you want it.

 

[DaJokr]

Winter is coming. I want it bad though lol.

The problem with vendors is they are all in the states. It's all US prices. I have to convert at what, 73 cents on the dollar? Plus duties and shipping. When I did my transmission it was an extra 600 bucks shipping on top of what I initially paid. Canadians get gouged hard at the border.

 

[WVRigrat05]

Winter is coming. I want it bad though lol.

The problem with vendors is they are all in the states. It's all US prices. I have to convert at what, 73 cents on the dollar? Plus duties and shipping. When I did my transmission it was an extra 600 bucks shipping on top of what I initially paid. Canadians get gouged hard at the border.

Mine blew up in January/February? I know it was snowing because I had to buy a compressor to blow the snow out of the cylinders, it sucked for sure.

I'll have the LMM done this days off hopefully, I had 80% of it tore down in just a few hours, got part of the harness and bell housing/motor mounts when I get back. Then I'm gonna rip the driver head off and see what it looks like.

 

[DaJokr]

What's the difference between cast and forged pistons? What's the purpose of ceramic coated tops?

 

[Chevy1925]

What's the difference between cast and forged pistons? What's the purpose of ceramic coated tops?

forged will take more cyl pressure and heat than cast will before breaking but unless you get a set with steel ring lands, they are not a good idea for what you are after (have to run softer rings or you will beat the ring lands out of the piston, softer rings means shorter life span before compression drops). you also need more piston to head clearance and piston to wall clearance for forged as they grow more under heat and pressure than cast do. ceramic top and sides is suppose to reflect heat back into the cyl and keep it out of the piston. way back when, thats what guys did to LB7/LLY pistons after delipping them thinking it would help them live under the higher HP longer, i never saw the gain and never did it to my pistons after delipping them. They also burned the coating off the pistons in 5-10k miles. todays coating may be different though and hold up better.

 

[oscyjack]

Forgings are stronger than castings. Ceramic adds a barrier for thermal energy. I'm sure there is someone who can add some actual science to that haha. Most of my metallurgical knowledge comes from rifle barrels and bolts rather than auto pistons

 

[dk2429]

I'm new to the diesel game, but why not just find another Duramax like an LBZ or LMM and slap it in the truck and roll on..? I'm sure you could find one with low miles/hours on it for you budget.

 

[Novak]

I'm new to the diesel game, but why not just find another Duramax like an LBZ or LMM and slap it in the truck and roll on..? I'm sure you could find one with low miles/hours on it for you budget.

The factory rods and such can only hold so much power. His goal is to make more power eventually but that process requires spending money where it counts on the internals so you can "safely" hold more power.


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[DaJokr]

I'm new to the diesel game, but why not just find another Duramax like an LBZ or LMM and slap it in the truck and roll on..? I'm sure you could find one with low miles/hours on it for you budget.

If I go with another stock motor I will be in the same predicament I am now. I am debating slapping a low mile motor in with no core charge just to keep making money and then building the motor I have now as I get parts. A buddy has a shop I can use and he is willing to help with install.

I went and talked to a performance shop today, and there recommending forged. I might be better off with cast though. My trucks basically going to live in the 450-500hp range for daily driving, the only time it will be turned up is at the track or playing at lights with cumaparts and powerjokes.

I need to research more on pistons. I don't understand delipping or valve reliefs and what impact lower cylinder compression will have on things. The more I look and research, the more confused I'm getting.