Mike L. Ever heard of...

Cobra#3747

New member
Jan 2, 2007
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Baltimore, Maryland
Neal Chance converters?

We used them in the Turbo Mustangs that we were running, pretty neat setup, was a bolt together, could pull it out and change change how "tight" or "loose" it was on the spot and throw it back in. Obviously a powerglide was a little easier to pull than an alli, but would make for some interesting testing.


Instructions w/pictures
http://www.racingconverters.com/assembly-instructions.html

Home Page
http://www.racingconverters.com/
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
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Aug 12, 2006
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Interesting. This is an exact copy of the old cast iron Powerglide of the '50's. I rebuilt many of these converters in the '60's. Don't know if they can hold the diesels.
 

The Neens

BFD
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Aug 10, 2006
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That's what we run in our drag car...Not too much data yet, but haven't had any problems...We haven't taken advantage of the disassemble-rebuild/change feature yet...
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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Am I reading this right?

To loosen up the converter, you move the spacers from one side of the stator to the other to increase the gap between the stator and the turbine. To tighten it, you do the opposite.

If that was the case, a really smart cookie could put weights and fingers in there like a centrifugal-assist racing clutch, that would tighten the converter up as the RPM went up. Loose on launch, tight up top. By altering the weights, you would control when the converter got tight.

Taking it a step further... Perhaps not enough room, but actually put clutches in there that are connected to the the stator. At low RPM, big gap, easy slip. RPM goes up and the gap starts to tighten. The gap get all the way down, and a converter clutch applies.
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
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Aug 12, 2006
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Am I reading this right?

To loosen up the converter, you move the spacers from one side of the stator to the other to increase the gap between the stator and the turbine. To tighten it, you do the opposite.

If that was the case, a really smart cookie could put weights and fingers in there like a centrifugal-assist racing clutch, that would tighten the converter up as the RPM went up. Loose on launch, tight up top. By altering the weights, you would control when the converter got tight.

Taking it a step further... Perhaps not enough room, but actually put clutches in there that are connected to the the stator. At low RPM, big gap, easy slip. RPM goes up and the gap starts to tighten. The gap get all the way down, and a converter clutch applies.

It's been tried electronicaly by GM in the mid '60's. Could not hold big power without stripping the slines off the stator support. Worked great with stock power.
 

JOHNBOY

< Rocking the Big Single!
Aug 30, 2006
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Lonnie

Horsepower Addict
The Neal Chance converters have a pretty good following, but now many converter manufacturers are offering a free stall change with purchase... so the modular converter design may not be the best option for the average person.

If you plan trackside swaps, considering the cost, & time limitations between rounds, the hardcore racers would likely have few different converters in the trailer & not have to deal with the whole rebuild process.

The switch pitch was the ticket before the lockup converter came about. My '66 Olds 442 has a factory unit with 1800/2800 stall. The trans is a 2 speed Jetaway, also known as the Super Turbine 300 with a linkage mounted switch on the firewall. High stall is active at idle & over 75% throttle.

Now there is little need when you can have lock up instead.
 
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The Neens

BFD
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Aug 10, 2006
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If you plan trackside swaps, considering the cost, & time limitations between rounds, the hardcore racers would likely have few different converters in the trailer & not have to deal with the whole rebuild process.

Exactly, I don't think we'll be altering stall speeds at the track...A spare convertor makes more sense to us...