Lock up box and tps error

[N2BRK]

I should have known better. I've been around enough to know better. Lol. Just because it worked for a weeks doesn't mean the tension on the tap in wasn't easing with temp and vibration swings, lol.

I am using tap ins for power and ground though. It's not easy to solder connections up under the dash. Hopefully they will be ok and less fussy than the signal wires.

Btw - I love this box! It's transformed my truck. One push of the button at startup to auto arm, and you're g2go!

 

[c20elephant]

Alarm installers use this technique for under dash inline splices, either way the link has more options and is good source for info...


http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12661

 

[LBZ]

Alarm installers use this technique for under dash inline splices, either way the link has more options and is good source for info...


http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12661

FN hate twist and tape. Worst practice one can ever have when doing wiring.

For 2 or more wires-Cut. Twist. Solder. (Add a little dielectric grease over the soldered connection area if it's in a wet environment) HEAT SHRINK. Done.

Won't corrode, won't come loose. I have engine harnesses and light harnesses on trailers, trucks etc. still working fine years later using this technique.

For just a two wire connection I have been using butt connectors with heat shrink built into them, or in a harness I'll just use a weatherpack connection.

 

[c20elephant]

FN hate twist and tape. Worst practice one can ever have when doing wiring.

For 2 or more wires-Cut. Twist. Solder. (Add a little dielectric grease over the soldered connection area if it's in a wet environment) HEAT SHRINK. Done.

Won't corrode, won't come loose. I have engine harnesses and light harnesses on trailers, trucks etc. still working fine years later using this technique.

For just a two wire connection I have been using butt connectors with heat shrink built into them, or in a harness I'll just use a weatherpack connection.

I would rather have that splice as opposed to the T-taps being used and you can remove it at a future date if need be....:thumb:

 

[LBZ]

T-taps are the worst IMO.

You can remove my method at any time also. Just cut and re-splice the two wires, solder, etc.

I do not like twist and tape because tape can easily lose its stickiness in a hot environment and come off. Also does nothing to protect against corrosion.

 

[c20elephant]

I have some T-taps in my retired work truck going on 20 years under the hood, a dab of silicone grease before clamping them down last a long time and still work today....

 

[LBZ]

I have some T-taps in my retired work truck going on 20 years under the hood, a dab of silicone grease before clamping them down last a long time and still work today....

No doubt they would last-in Arizona lol.

 

[Dozerboy]

Most of the work trucks I have driven have had some strange intermittent electrical issue. Even brand new ones, because someone used t taps or twisted the wire on strobes or for the fuel tank. Hardly ever have electrical issues on my vehicles even after 10+ years because I solder everything.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[c20elephant]

No doubt they would last-in Arizona lol.

Daytime summer highs in the 115's and nighttime lows in the upper 90's......