kryptonite race centerlink with heims

[Wikid]

Hey guys, so I ordered the a new steering setup for my truck since the motor was out and figured it would be much easier to replace. However I wanted to get the SS version of this but they sent the wrong version. My motor gets here next week so I would have to wait to install the motor if I wanted to do it with it out.

Has anyone ran this version of the kryptonite? this is on a truck that is daily driven.

From what I understand since none of the kryptonites are designed to rotate like the stock one the turning radius loss is always going to be there. But because of how the 2 different version connect to the tie rods I would assume the ackerman angle will be off a good amount?

Wikid

 

[N2BRK]

I can't say about the race version, but the original will definitely rotate when subjected to a nasty boosted launch; BTDT!

 

[Wikid]

I am also going to have the DHD Brace on it.

 

[WVRigrat05]

I bent pitman arms with a straight centerlink, just be sure to keep your angles level or a little negative, I gave up on hot rodding in 4x4, pointless in a leveled truck.

 

[Wikid]

I bent pitman arms with a straight centerlink, just be sure to keep your angles level or a little negative, I gave up on hot rodding in 4x4, pointless in a leveled truck.

Which angles are you talking about?

 

[N2BRK]

I added the DHD brace and the DHD lower control arm bracket to my setup and she's straight as an arrow now.

 

[c5fourj]

I added the DHD brace and the DHD lower control arm bracket to my setup and she's straight as an arrow now.

Do you have the kryptonite SS with a DHD brace?

 

[CarolinaHD]

Which angles are you talking about?

Tie rods and cv axles.

 

[Wikid]

Tie rods and cv axles.

Ah yea, I always level my truck before racing. I may level it permanently but would rather do it with a kit than just pulling the jack screws out of the torsion bars.

 

[N2BRK]

Do you have the kryptonite SS with a DHD brace?

I have one of the first original Kryptonite centerlinks. It's black hex bar. I run the matching tie rods, a High Roller idler, Rare Parts Pitman, Henderson Super Steer, welded in large kryptonite gusset, DHD brace, and DHD lower control arm bracket.

 

[Wikid]

I have one of the first original Kryptonite centerlinks. It's black hex bar. I run the matching tie rods, a High Roller idler, Rare Parts Pitman, Henderson Super Steer, welded in large kryptonite gusset, DHD brace, and DHD lower control arm bracket.

Where do the tie rods mount on that centerlink?

The kit I got has their 10" Race centerlink with heims to the tie rods. then their Death grip idler support, weld in gusset, SDP pitman arm, Moog XD pitman arm, and DHD brace.

The new motor and setup should get me close to 1000hp so I am hoping it to be able to hand that. but still not have a bunch of issues with bad tire wear during the daily driving aspect.

Wikid

 

[N2BRK]

they mount a little inboard. Prior to this setup I ran a straight centerlink and hated it's street parking lot manners. This is very livable, but it sounds like you have something different if you're running heims. I'm 8000lbs and just a hair of crank; my wheels are really heavy too. If you're anything less and have straighter angles, you should be golden!

Oh, worth mentioning - my Caltracs really help the front stay put on launch. Second hole and 5 turns back off the spring pack. It's a little rough around town with potholes but a manageable compromise.

 

[Wikid]

they mount a little inboard. Prior to this setup I ran a straight centerlink and hated it's street parking lot manners. This is very livable, but it sounds like you have something different if you're running heims. I'm 8000lbs and just a hair of crank; my wheels are really heavy too. If you're anything less and have straighter angles, you should be golden!

Oh, worth mentioning - my Caltracs really help the front stay put on launch. Second hole and 5 turns back off the spring pack. It's a little rough around town with potholes but a manageable compromise.

Sounds like yours is the SS style where the tie rod mounts to the top or side of the centerlink?. Mine will mount to the end like the stock one will only using a heim instead of the screw in greased joint.

I noticed when I put the DHD brace on I lost some steering at Lock because the centerlink couldnt rotate to get the extra turning, I am hoping it will be similar.

As for your caltracs, when I bought the truck it had the brackets already for the cognito traction bars, but no bars. I had bushings and heims from my 4x4 jeep projects so I built my own traction bars from 1-3/4 1/4 wall DOM tube i think they are about 54" maybe longer dont recall the usual lenghts. They made a big difference in launches and wheel hop. My best 60ft was 1.77 with the old motor setup (690rwhp) and old tires.

The next major upgrade will be a billet P2 and C2 from Gorend to go in the trans so it doesnt scatter. Probably refrain from the max tune till that gets done.

 

[c5fourj]

I have one of the first original Kryptonite centerlinks. It's black hex bar. I run the matching tie rods, a High Roller idler, Rare Parts Pitman, Henderson Super Steer, welded in large kryptonite gusset, DHD brace, and DHD lower control arm bracket.

You ever just run everything but the upgraded center link? If so how did it act. Im trying to justify not spending another pile of money on steering again...

 

[Wikid]

You ever just run everything but the upgraded center link? If so how did it act. Im trying to justify not spending another pile of money on steering again...

Tie rod sleeves and the DHD brace will do wonders for most. Like i mentioned before the brace will keep the centerlink from rolling which you want for boosted launches but it will take away some of your turning. with that setup it was really similar to stock. at 500-600hp we didnt see much centerlink roll or tires tow in at the track.

 

[c5fourj]

Ya, ive got the brace, rare parts pitman/idler arm and tie rods, lower control arm brace and kryptonite idler support with guesset. Just curious if the kryptonite ss center link would be worth it.

 

[Mark06]

For all out racing = yes, for the street = you'll hate it, your truck will feel like it won't turn when trying to make tighter maneuvers. The hymes are strong but also wear out significantly faster due to easy dirt penetration compared to OEM sealed ball joint style.

 

[Dukcaln]

Sounds like yours is the SS style where the tie rod mounts to the top or side of the centerlink?. Mine will mount to the end like the stock one will only using a heim instead of the screw in greased joint.

I noticed when I put the DHD brace on I lost some steering at Lock because the centerlink couldnt rotate to get the extra turning, I am hoping it will be similar.

As for your caltracs, when I bought the truck it had the brackets already for the cognito traction bars, but no bars. I had bushings and heims from my 4x4 jeep projects so I built my own traction bars from 1-3/4 1/4 wall DOM tube i think they are about 54" maybe longer dont recall the usual lenghts. They made a big difference in launches and wheel hop. My best 60ft was 1.77 with the old motor setup (690rwhp) and old tires.

The next major upgrade will be a billet P2 and C2 from Gorend to go in the trans so it doesnt scatter. Probably refrain from the max tune till that gets done.

What do you want to know about the heims and the kryptonite set up? I am the one who set this package up when I worked there. There are some small things you will need to do when setting up this set up. Things they don't tell you....

Its a proven strong set up, ask Wade Minter in Trippple max.... he is abusing the hell out of the first set and still true and straight. Few of the pull trucks sponsored were set up with them as well.

 

[Wikid]

For all out racing = yes, for the street = you'll hate it, your truck will feel like it won't turn when trying to make tighter maneuvers. The hymes are strong but also wear out significantly faster due to easy dirt penetration compared to OEM sealed ball joint style.

Yea i could see them wearing out faster. But they are easy to change. I never felt like the truck had a good turning radius period. I dont see it being much less then i had.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Dukcaln]

If your not every day driving them in weather, they will last, but like all heims, your correct, that can be an issue.

The race cut center link ( inner screw in still tie rod end) no matter the regular or heim set up will be a crazy loss of steering.. No more starbucks drive through or u turns... its about a 25% - 30% reduction in steering radius. Can have some serious tire roll or push when trying to turn sharp low speed

The street to strip (SS) center link. Very minimal, 2%-5% and the only difference you will have some tire roll or push. This is an awesome set up for daily drive and weekend racer.