Hydraulic steering

2004LB7

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Most if not all of the electrical is fine at 16 volts but how are are you going to maintain that voltage? The alternator will only provide about 14.5 volts max which won't properly charge a 14 or 16 volt battery
 

Chevy1925

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It’s most likely for his pull truck which will likely be on a charger.

We ran dual optima red tops, switched to yellows after killing the reds in a couple races. Discharged them too much with electric water pumps (2 of them), water pump for the air to water cooler, electric hydro pump, lift pump, electronics and fans all running off them.
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

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I would delete the alternator aswell. Battery charger. It’s not a street driven truck. Hook 1 maybe 2 times everyone a night. And James I don’t know, that’s why I’m asking for ideas lol
 

Chevy1925

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I think the stock ecm is good to 9 volts. Below that, you might run into injector driving issues. The cummins ecm was good for 9 volt as well and never had a low voltage issue with it.

So we ran a stock box and hydroboost, the pump made a huge difference in how it all worked. It was like we added a massive booster to the brakes and steering was super light. I’d leave it. I’ll see if I can find the pump we ran. I wanna day it was just a snow plow pump/resi.

We planned to do lithium 16v batts but that meant adding more ballast to the ass end to make weight (batteries were already where the ballast would go) and really, after the yellow tops we didn’t have battery issues.
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

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Have you ever had the front end locker not disengage and been able to power through it? Sometimes mine wouldn’t unlock and it was either left or right that absolutely would not turn (can’t recall which direction it was) back and fourth 30 times to get it to turn off the track lmao. Sorry I can’t figure out how to quote on this new forum format lol
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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So this deletes your ps pump and everything else is stock?

Yes sir, just have to get custom hoses and wire it.

Have you ever had the front end locker not disengage and been able to power through it? Sometimes mine wouldn’t unlock and it was either left or right that absolutely would not turn (can’t recall which direction it was) back and fourth 30 times to get it to turn off the track lmao. Sorry I can’t figure out how to quote on this new forum format lol

We only had a true trac in front and a spool in rear. On drag radials in 4wd, had no issues using 1 finger to turn the wheel. I don’t think it will be that easy for you but I’ll bet it makes it far easier. Worse case, you can add a hydro assist ram to the center link and this will still supply enough volume to run it/steering box/and brakes.
 

2004LB7

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I've had mine feel stuck engaged for a few seconds before unlocking. Seems if I put it in reverse and backed up just a tad it unlocked right away. For batteries, couldn't you run two Trojan T105 deep cycle batteries? They are 6 volts each so you would need to wire them in series for 12 volts. I would think the capacity at 275 AH may be enough but voltage sag may be an issue that lithium wouldn't have

I think James is right on the ECM voltage but I think the TCM cuts out sooner at around 10 or 11 volts and if you care, the ABS will probably throw codes even sooner
 

2004LB7

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TCM = transmission control module. The computer that controls the transmission. Most diesel vehicles, including the duramax use separate computers for the engine and transmission. Many gas engines combine them into one, or have one computer that can run the engine and transmission, and usually labeled as the PCM or power-train control module