Electrical issue not common

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
1
38
33
Lexington, Ky
Pretty sure my problem isn't very common. I only found 1 guy on df that had the same problem a few years ago..My lbz truck will start and die. You can move the gear selector to any gear without your foot on the brake when the key is on. My digital climate control does not light up atall. It has power. No gauges work in the cluster til like 2 seconds after start up and they come to live and the engine dies at the same time.... Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

i_keyser

DD n00b
Jun 4, 2010
160
0
0
Denver
Are there codes in anything? I would guess you are getting some U1000 Loss of communication codes.
 
Last edited:

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
1
38
33
Lexington, Ky
Nothing besides a glow plug code. P678 cylinder 8, I know there's another plug that's bad too cause it was blocked by the old owner cause he didn't like the cel on... And he was afraid to break it off when I tried to fix it. So no lack of communication codes that I know of. This happened about 2 months ago and fixed itself. Didn't happen again till 3 days ago the morning and yesterday morning it did the same thing. Each day when I got back from work it started up fine and drove fine. Shut it on and off a bunch and worked great at night but nothing in the morning. Today was different it was still AFU when I got off work. Messed around with it alittle before I quit for the night. I was thinking it was some type of moisture messing with it because the first time along time ago it was a rainy day. And both mornings this week were rainy also..... Until it didn't work again tonight, but it is a nice day out. So it's not moisture issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
1
38
33
Lexington, Ky
I guess I will put a stock tune on it tomorrow. Unless anyone thinks thats not a good idea? I think it will be okay, it connects and scans fine. check all the grounds. I jiggled all the harness could find under the hood today and that didnt do anything. If im gonna throw parts at it I would try bcm and maybe even a new fuse panel, I really dont wanna borrow shit off my puller though since its so "rigged up" :eek:
 

Max Attitude

11SIX
Mar 7, 2012
814
0
16
Caledonia, MI
My truck did some weird stuff with bad battery(s). Still started fine too. Mine just had a bunch of random lights come on the dash like anti-theft and I don't remember what else.
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
1
38
33
Lexington, Ky
I replaced the ign switch the other day, seemed to fix it for alittle atleast. I didn't get a chance to check all grounds, because it was wet outside And I wasn't gonna get all wet and cold laying on the ground lol. Maybe when I pulled the passlock sensor out to give me alittle more room inch seated it back to give the same resistance as before and it's just getting loose or something. Because shortly there after it quit working again. I will check resistance at the sensor and at the bcm and compare when I have time. Probably won't be able to even look at it till Thursday or Friday. So here for ideas in the mean time. If passlock was messed up would it allow engine start, then kill injection? Or simply not allow start in the first place? That will rule stuff out brain storming.

Also I took a bcm out of a similar truck, and no change. I have heard they need programmed... But both trucks are ext cab 2006 digital climate controls, everything is the same body wise besides steering wheel controls on one and not the other. Will that work to rule it out like I tested, or is that different enough that obviously it won't communicate properly?

Once again, if you turn the key on and you see power at the hvac and the cluster is acting like it's supposed to, you know it will start and run fine. If no power at hvac, you know it will start and die just as before. The problem that was once intermittent seems perminately messed up now lol.

Btw, even though the hvac has power at the connector does not mean it will power up properly. So that there has me thinking bcm could have been the problem which is why I swapped to begin with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk