Considering DD'ing 350k mile LB7?

[Chevy1925]

Yup, that’s mounted on the old y bridge pipe. Either drill/tap and just bolt it to a mount somewhere by the connector or grab a 02-04 y bridge and drop it in. That elbow in there makes me think the 02-04 federal y bridge would make the cold pipe pop right in like you thought

 

[fl0w3n]

Yup, that’s mounted on the old y bridge pipe. Either drill/tap and just bolt it to a mount somewhere by the connector or grab a 02-04 y bridge and drop it in. That elbow in there makes me think the 02-04 federal y bridge would make the cold pipe pop right in like you thought

Yeah the 02-04 would put the cold pipe connection parallel to the ground, like the Cali is. My 01 is angled up.

I’m thinking I’ll shove a rag in the intake, drill and tap it, then zip tie the map sensor somewhere solid. 02-04s are hard to find, and I don’t feel like tearing the intake and fuel system and harness down again.

I’m thinking once I have a place of my own to work on this thing after work, I’m going to pull the motor anyways and check the bearings and deep clean the frame and motor. I’ll have the chance to beef up or replace the harness then as well, and hopefully have a turbo rebuild ready to drop in.

 

[fl0w3n]

Just ordered the full PPE 01 LB7 intercooler hose kit, I debated just ordering the cold side intake one, but there's two other boots that have the blue just barely worn through and I figured I might as well replace them all.
https://www.ppediesel.com/shop/sili...nless-steel-clamps-gm-2001-lb7-115910101.html

Also ordered the alternator jumper cable I need to replace.

I fly down next weekend and I'm hoping this is the time I finally get this bastard running.



Does anyone happen to have a MAP sensor out of their truck that they can measure the barb size on the bottom, without the rubber grommet? I didn't have time to pull mine apart this past weekend, and I'd like to get a barb and some hose ordered up ahead of time.

 

[Chevy1925]

Cancel it. Those pos boots couldn’t even hang with my factory 20 year old 220k boots. Seriously, I ran one as the lower hot aide and the factory one right off the turbo. The ppe one is 6-7 years old and was completely cracking/splitting apart inside. Blew out twice on me on my way up north with the family.

I wouldn’t run those Chinese POS if they paid me

 

[zakkb787]

Cancel it. Those pos boots couldn’t even hang with my factory 20 year old 220k boots. Seriously, I ran one as the lower hot aide and the factory one right off the turbo. The ppe one is 6-7 years old and was completely cracking/splitting apart inside. Blew out twice on me on my way up north with the family.

I wouldn’t run those Chinese POS if they paid me

I was waiting for this post :roflmao:

 

[Chevy1925]

I’ll preach that shit for a long ass time

 

[fl0w3n]

Damnit, well it’s already shipped...

The GM parts stores don’t have the factory boots any more so I’m not sure what to do instead, PPE is the only one who makes something.

The part number seems to be 15034798 for the one boot I really need

I could probably find a universal boot if I knew the exact dimensions, but PPE doesn’t list it.

 

[fl0w3n]

Also, do you happen to have a MAP you can measure for me so I can find out what size nipple to buy?

 

[Bdsankey]

Cancel it. Those pos boots couldn’t even hang with my factory 20 year old 220k boots. Seriously, I ran one as the lower hot aide and the factory one right off the turbo. The ppe one is 6-7 years old and was completely cracking/splitting apart inside. Blew out twice on me on my way up north with the family.

I wouldn’t run those Chinese POS if they paid me

I 2nd this. I went with Vibrant for generic boots. Their quality seems insanely good thus far.

 

[fl0w3n]

I 2nd this. I went with Vibrant for generic boots. Their quality seems insanely good thus far.

Do you think I can safely cut one to size? I need a 45 but it looks like, from the pictures only, one side is longer than the other.

Also, googling is saying passenger side motor-tube is a 3.25" ID tube, but Vibrant doesn't have a 3.25"?

 

[fl0w3n]

I've lost momentum on this the flights, $, and time just got to me. I moved to the 02 2500 Burb instead and fixed the fuel pump on that, and I'll drive it for a little while I recoup on the Dmax.

It doesn't help that I don't know how to use a ruler and ordered the wrong sized intercooler hose 2 times before I got the right one.


Also, I got a new tap and nipple to put the MAP sensor into the 01 Y Bridge. Does anyone think I'm ridiculously stupid for considering drilling and tapping with the Y Bridge on the truck and just shoving a rag down there? Or maybe making up a cardboard blocking plate and shoving it down there with a vacuum running ...

I really don't want to take the Y bridge back out

 

[DAVe3283]

I've lost momentum on this the flights, $, and time just got to me. I moved to the 02 2500 Burb instead and fixed the fuel pump on that, and I'll drive it for a little while I recoup on the Dmax.

It doesn't help that I don't know how to use a ruler and ordered the wrong sized intercooler hose 2 times before I got the right one.


Also, I got a new tap and nipple to put the MAP sensor into the 01 Y Bridge. Does anyone think I'm ridiculously stupid for considering drilling and tapping with the Y Bridge on the truck and just shoving a rag down there? Or maybe making up a cardboard blocking plate and shoving it down there with a vacuum running ...

I really don't want to take the Y bridge back out

- Stuff a clean dry rag down the y-bridge
- Drill and tap
- Vacuum any chips from the outside
- Carefully remove the rag
- Vacuum the inside of the y-bridge thoroughly

I'd be OK doing that on my rig, but realize this comes with a small possibly of running bits of metal through the motor. I don't think it's likely, as long as you're careful.

 

[fl0w3n]

- Stuff a clean dry rag down the y-bridge
- Drill and tap
- Vacuum any chips from the outside
- Carefully remove the rag
- Vacuum the inside of the y-bridge thoroughly

I'd be OK doing that on my rig, but realize this comes with a small possibly of running bits of metal through the motor. I don't think it's likely, as long as you're careful.

Glad to hear you’d be okay with it.

I think in all likelihood I’ll need to re-bearing this motor, based off how bad my last oil analysis was, but I don’t want scored cylinder walls too.

 

[fl0w3n]

So I got to tapping the Y Bridge after the little parts finally showed up from McMaster Carr

I was watching an AvE video the other day and learned a trick from him - dipped the drill bit and tap in grease and it collected all the chips.

I used a 7/32 drill bit which should be the right size for M6 threads, but the nipple is kinda loose in there. Wish I would have used 3/16. It came with a rubber washer and I added some red loctite, but I don’t think loctite works on aluminum.
Hopefully the map and hose hold it from backing out. If not I’ll have to up the size of the hole and threads.

The 4th intercooler boot I ordered was sort of a fit. It’s kind of loose on the Y Bridge but with the clamp I’m sure it’ll be fine.

The bigger problem is the angle isn’t 45 degrees. Bending the boot down to fit the tube crushes it.

I think I’m just going to have to hunt for a federal 01 boot and tube unfortunately, which seems rare.

 

[DAVe3283]

LockTite totally works on aluminum. Sorry you can't find the right coupler, hopefully you can get something that works for a reasonable price.

 

[fl0w3n]

Looks like I might have lucked out ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LB7-Durama...813094?hash=item4b709be8e6:g:7ioAAOSwbPld89kf

That looks like an 02-04 Federal bridge because its got the bend at the top. And I think I see a nipple for the MAP in the middle of the bridge?

As much as I hate to tear it back down to the Y Bridge, I don't know what else to do

 

[DAVe3283]

Looks like I might have lucked out ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LB7-Durama...813094?hash=item4b709be8e6:g:7ioAAOSwbPld89kf

That looks like an 02-04 Federal bridge because its got the bend at the top. And I think I see a nipple for the MAP in the middle of the bridge?

As much as I hate to tear it back down to the Y Bridge, I don't know what else to do

That's a 02-04 federal bridge alright. The part at the bottom is a bolt to mount the FPRV bracket to. The MAP sensor goes on the top where the metal sticks out near the heater.

If you get a LS MAP gasket from a junkyard, the LB7 MAP will just pop right in. You'll need to make a bracket to hold it in. The factory bracket isn't available anywhere anymore last I looked. If you find a source for them, let me know, I need one too.

 

[fl0w3n]

That's a 02-04 federal bridge alright. The part at the bottom is a bolt to mount the FPRV bracket to. The MAP sensor goes on the top where the metal sticks out near the heater.

If you get a LS MAP gasket from a junkyard, the LB7 MAP will just pop right in. You'll need to make a bracket to hold it in. The factory bracket isn't available anywhere anymore last I looked. If you find a source for them, let me know, I need one too.

Oh that's right, I missed that little bulge at the top. I forgot it was the type that the MAP inserts into the Y Bridge, no hose.

Any idea the part number on the gasket, or is it a junkyard only item?

I have the original cali LB7 bracket, hopefully I can make something out of that.

 

[DAVe3283]

Oh that's right, I missed that little bulge at the top. I forgot it was the type that the MAP inserts into the Y Bridge, no hose.

Any idea the part number on the gasket, or is it a junkyard only item?

I have the original cali LB7 bracket, hopefully I can make something out of that.

I believe the gasket part number is 16194007. But it's usually $0 to $1 at a junkyard, and they're silicone rubber and don't go bad, so might as well save some bucks if you've got a junkyard nearby. That's what I am running on my Suburban.

For the bracket, you can take the CA hold-down and bend it a bit, drill a new hole, and cut most of it off. Done that before. Throw a little paint on there and it passes for factory. You'll figure it out, stick the sensor in and you'll see how it all needs to line up.

 

[fl0w3n]

I believe the gasket part number is 16194007. But it's usually $0 to $1 at a junkyard, and they're silicone rubber and don't go bad, so might as well save some bucks if you've got a junkyard nearby. That's what I am running on my Suburban.

For the bracket, you can take the CA hold-down and bend it a bit, drill a new hole, and cut most of it off. Done that before. Throw a little paint on there and it passes for factory. You'll figure it out, stick the sensor in and you'll see how it all needs to line up.

Thanks for the help man. While I got you here, do you happen to know what the red jumper box that ties into battery and alternator is called/part #?

I just want to get this damn thing back from the dead. I think I may sell off my 2500 Suburban and use the money to finally just wrap this thing up, at least wrap up this stage and get it back on the road.