Confused with a possible broke crank

wdino73

Member
Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
I did all the right moves with my build used great parts took extra time with the build to make sure everything was perfect as could be expected, we very particular with the breakins I feel I did everything right but with only 2300 miles on my new fresh engine, I broke my crank, DAMMIT. I didn't race, pull, street race, nothing this is bullshit, any advise, things to look for when I tear it down, I'm looking for answers, I was using a Fluidampr, I hope that was not the problem, the rest of my specs are in my signature, any words of wisdom would greatly be apprieciated. I believe it's my crank I pulled the damperner tonite and you could move the crank snout, maybe it's not broken that's probably wishful thinking
 

othrgrl

Diesel Addiction Owner
Mar 10, 2008
2,149
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Wilmington NC
www.mydieseladdiction.com
Last I checked Industrial doesn't have the equipment necessary to realistically balance the injectors - that's not necessarily what I would blame it on. Did you have the main journals align honed with the studs installed? Skipping that has caused alot of spun bearings and other bottom end problems. What kind of oil pressure were you seeing from that modded pump and what oil were you running in it? What crank did you use in the build? If it was your stock crank what let go in your stock motor?
 
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S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
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Quncy, Fl
Was your rotating assembly balanced including the dampner and flywheel/flexplate? It happens sometimes for no particular reason within our control. I know it can be costly but hang in there the Dmax is still the best thing out there.
 

wdino73

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Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
Hey I really appreciate all you guys help, let me try and answer some of these question, In the begin of this mess I put some work in the top end, taking great pains not to over power the bottom end, all thought I'm new to the diesel work I'm not new to hot rodding and the cause and effect rule, I had a 2 hour meeting with the shop that done the top end work explaining all my thoughts and precautions about the bottom end, I drove it for 2 weeks I street raced a mustang dusted him by the way, Then one day way driving it passed a car on the highway started missing and white smoke, so to make a long story short I bent the #4 rod which was something I didn't want to do which is what I feared the most, the shop pulled the motor I picked up the short block and done the work with alot of help from my dad who is an retired A+ mechanic so armed with or mic, dial guages, plasti tape we went to work, I had the crank inspected and the rotating mass balance damper, carrillo rods, flywheel, ect, I had the piston set for .012 out of the hole, I installed the arp crank studs by specs even let them set for 24 hr, and retorqued them 3 more time, I triple checked all final torques on everything even the dam front cover, I get the motor back in I turned the key on the first start let it idle until operation temp like clevite recommended, it purred like a kitten, on the first which I didn't get to do the shop calls and said the engine was ticking, it sounded like a valve, I'll check those when I do the tear down. I bring it home do my first 500 miles with Rotella and changed the filter and fluid and add the lucas treatment, after the next 500 miles I did it again and at 1500 total miles I serviced it and went to Amsoil because Amsoil isn't a good break in oil for new rings, well right before my 1500 mile service say at 1375 miles the new Suncoast V with the 1056 converter went out, so Suncoast was very gracious and warranty the tranny and paid $460.00 on the R+R those guys are Aces in my book, So I get the truck back running I do the 1500 amsoil service drive it for another 850 miles and bam here Iam, during the breakin period I never ran Higher that a Level #6 PPE nor used propane and water meth. I think I took all the right steps the only step I didn't get to do was the first drive and that's when the ticking started, which did getting alittle louder, maybe the studs stretched, a bad set of H-Series Clevite Bearings, fluidampr went faulty, injector out of balance, I'm working on it at my house in my little garage no one else will turn a wrench on it or drive when I get it back running which will be awhile since I'm busted after just spending $31,689.98 on this years build. So my baby is in my garge safe and sound with either a broke crank or spun bearings, I'm working on it a couple of hours a day that's about as much as I can stomach because I want to throw up when I'm around my truck. sorry for the long reply just trying to give you guys as much info as I can, I really do appreciate all of your help..
 
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wdino73

Member
Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
Oh and by the way the oil pressure holds over 80psi when idle on morning start ups and holds 66 ish driving at 55 mph, what is that around 1600 rpm's something like that, I forgot that info. Thanks again
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
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slc tuah
As i posted in your other thread , what did you set the bearings to for clearence ? I hope you get this figured out and feal bad for your luck , also did you get the mains line honed after the use of the main studs ?
 

othrgrl

Diesel Addiction Owner
Mar 10, 2008
2,149
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Wilmington NC
www.mydieseladdiction.com
I imagine that since you mentioned plastigauge you checked bearing clearances and set them to either stock specs or slightly looser. The main thing I didn't see you mention is getting the mains align honed after the main studs were installed. When you install main studs it will deform the walls of the main journals, using plasigauge top/bottom to measure clearance you won't be able to tell that the journal is out of round. Improper wear and/or a spun main is the most common problem and if you run either one long enough you can heat stress that journal of the crank enough to cause weaken it and eventually cause it to fail. Hopefully the block is still okay and you can get away with a new crank, rebalance, new bearings and an align hone.
 

wdino73

Member
Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
I quess I need to find a use crankshaft, can anyone help me. I really can't afford a new one, but would love to have a billet one, but who wouldn't
 

wdino73

Member
Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
I've got Industrial Diesel Injectors, I don't think this is what the problem is, but I call them an they are going to flow them, then I'll know were that situation stands
 

wdino73

Member
Sep 25, 2009
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Versailles, Ky
Yeah, I didn't sleep last nite and I've been sick all day..... Thanks Guys for the concerns, After all this is over I WILL shed so light on the Duramax broken crank problems and hopefully help someone else from having this pain, Like I always told my kids you learn from your mistakes, I already have a good idea of what caused this but still researching before I post my findings.