Caltracs vs Traction bars

[Dozerboy]

I have been in bad need of something to control axle wrap on the LBZ for a while. I'm not looking for something that's gonna get me great 60' times. Ideally I want something that will protect the driveline, won't need lots of adjustments or maintenance, and won't limit suspension travel. Truck needs to be able to go off-road not hardcore or anything but don't wanna hinder it any more than it already is. Not super worried about noise or a little rougher ride. I'm making around 700hp right now may go up to 1000hp. I would like to maybe be able to add a 4" lift and not have to modify/ remount the bars if that's at all possible.

 

[PureHybrid]

I was thinking Caltracs made an adapter for lifted trucks, maybe not. I'd say they're the better option. What most guys run for bars are sub par because there's no additional movement, run a short shackle on the front of a basic long bar and you'd be fine as far as ride and articulation

 

[Dozerboy]

I was thinking Caltracs made an adapter for lifted trucks, maybe not. I'd say they're the better option. What most guys run for bars are sub par because there's no additional movement, run a short shackle on the front of a basic long bar and you'd be fine as far as ride and articulation

I was looking at HSP bars.

 

[N2BRK]

I’ve had both long bars and Caltracs. The Caltracs don’t just give you racing or 60’ advantages, they make traction everywhere. Like in the rain! I started with long bars and then went to Caltracs and didn’t go back. On the 2002 I went with the new larger truck Caltracs. I do modify the lower mounts and run Heim boots and seals though. I get several years without having to replace joints. Calvert is also a superb stand up company (not saying HSP isn’t). I had some issues and Calvert immediately took care of me.

 

[1FastBrick]

I was thinking Caltracs made an adapter for lifted trucks, maybe not. I'd say they're the better option. What most guys run for bars are sub par because there's no additional movement, run a short shackle on the front of a basic long bar and you'd be fine as far as ride and articulation

I just looked and it shows they have various size pivot plates for small, full sized, lifted, and monster trucks....

CalTracs Truck (3410) – Calvert Racing, Inc.

calvertracing.com

 

[68ss]

I used long bars on mine. I think you have to drop the tank for Caltrac install. May be wrong. I went with longhorn fab. It stopped axle wrap and made the truck more stable when towing my camper as well. The only draw back to any of these is you lose ground clearance.

 

[Bdsankey]

If ground clearance is a concern, CalTracs will be your best bet.

Personally I do not believe long bars affect ride quality when using proper parts. I have ~60k miles on the bars I built and have not noticed any negative impact to how the truck drives BUT I did use high end Ballistic Fab joints. I run their poly Johnny Joint style heim in the front and their bushing at the axle end.

I've yet to rebuild them and have taken a pounding.

I’ve had both long bars and Caltracs. The Caltracs don’t just give you racing or 60’ advantages, they make traction everywhere. Like in the rain! I started with long bars and then went to Caltracs and didn’t go back. On the 2002 I went with the new larger truck Caltracs. I do modify the lower mounts and run Heim boots and seals though. I get several years without having to replace joints. Calvert is also a superb stand up company (not saying HSP isn’t). I had some issues and Calvert immediately took care of me.

Can you possibly provide some images of what you've done and what PN for the larger version? My LB7 and LBZ need a set. I prefer long bars for sled pulling as they do a better job with blocked suspension but that's not either truck's main usage.

 

[N2BRK]

I can get pictures when I get home from work. As for part numbers, I spoke directly to Travis at Calvert. He recommended that I go with the larger truck bars and their 3/4" hardware and larger course threaded heims. He called it a custom set, but it was really more like a parts-bin "custom" where they used the new larger truck kit but the 3 hole swing shackles instead of 4 hole, because I am not lifted and didn't want the extra danglies to catch road debris! I grabbed 3/4" heim boots and seals: Raceparts part WS7500 for the seals, and RERS3 boots. I milled the Caltracs bottom plate just a bit to make the relief needed for the seals, but I didn't need to do anything for the front mounts. Having done the job by hand and now with the seal pliers, the pliers are awesome, so grab a set on ebay or borrow etc, lol.

I have to speak to the comment about long bars not affecting ride when using proper parts - IMNSHO using any Johnny Joint or Heim is not a proper part. It's a way to dumb down the process for those that can't or refuse to weld tabs to the back axle. There is NO misalignment when you mount bars from the frame to the axle, using welded on tabs, so you can use poly bushings at each end. It rides superior to any heim joint bars I've been in, because you have a cushion at both ends instead. I made several sets like this and they are invisible as to ride quality, they give you a firmer feeling shift because the pinion isn't moving, though they slightly hurt track performance because the rear has no "give" (we lost a mere couple tenths, but my buddy kept them because it was his DD and he loved the rest). Zero hopping in sand and able to handle a lot of off-angle situations I put them in off-road. Here's my complete write up with sizes and parts if you want to duplicate: https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/simple-effective-traction-bars-for-the-diyable-guy.137819/

 

[N2BRK]

Feels like is 13*F, so here’s some quick crappy pics I clicked, lol.

You can only get boots on the ends at the front. Seals only on the backs. I actually did a boot on one front and seals on the other to see what lasts longer. I guess I was bored, lol.

 

[N2BRK]

I can’t believe how fast everything is rusting. They’ve only been on for a few months. I need to Blaster Shield everything!

 

[Bdsankey]

I can get pictures when I get home from work. As for part numbers, I spoke directly to Travis at Calvert. He recommended that I go with the larger truck bars and their 3/4" hardware and larger course threaded heims. He called it a custom set, but it was really more like a parts-bin "custom" where they used the new larger truck kit but the 3 hole swing shackles instead of 4 hole, because I am not lifted and didn't want the extra danglies to catch road debris! I grabbed 3/4" heim boots and seals: Raceparts part WS7500 for the seals, and RERS3 boots. I milled the Caltracs bottom plate just a bit to make the relief needed for the seals, but I didn't need to do anything for the front mounts. Having done the job by hand and now with the seal pliers, the pliers are awesome, so grab a set on ebay or borrow etc, lol.

Thanks for this info!!

I have to speak to the comment about long bars not affecting ride when using proper parts - IMNSHO using any Johnny Joint or Heim is not a proper part. It's a way to dumb down the process for those that can't or refuse to weld tabs to the back axle. There is NO misalignment when you mount bars from the frame to the axle, using welded on tabs, so you can use poly bushings at each end. It rides superior to any heim joint bars I've been in, because you have a cushion at both ends instead. I made several sets like this and they are invisible as to ride quality, they give you a firmer feeling shift because the pinion isn't moving, though they slightly hurt track performance because the rear has no "give" (we lost a mere couple tenths, but my buddy kept them because it was his DD and he loved the rest). Zero hopping in sand and able to handle a lot of off-angle situations I put them in off-road. Here's my complete write up with sizes and parts if you want to duplicate: https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/simple-effective-traction-bars-for-the-diyable-guy.137819/

I think you're misunderstanding the way the ballistic fab joint is made. It has a ball and socket sure but the socket is made from oil impregnated poly and is very cushioned. My tabs are welded directly to the axle as well.

It's not as much as a bushing but it's a hell of a lot better than a standard style heim.

Forged Chromoly 2.63 in Ballistic Joint

ballisticfabrication.com

 

[N2BRK]

Apologies! I thought they were just very large spherical joints! I never drove on a set with cushioned ones. I drove other sets with just regular joints and they were rough. True though, they don’t have as much squish as what I use

So if you’ve welded to the axle, then why didn’t you use rod ends? There’s no misalignment, hence no need for those.

 

[Bdsankey]

Apologies! I thought they were just very large spherical joints! I never drove on a set with cushioned ones. I drove other sets with just regular joints and they were rough. True though, they don’t have as much squish as what I use

So if you’ve welded to the axle, then why didn’t you use rod ends? There’s no misalignment, hence no need for those.

I used them to allow for suspension movement/articulation. A rod end/bushing likely would've been just fine but I didn't want to take any chances of creating a bind.

 

[1FastBrick]

So where is the picture of yours?

 

[LB7StillAlive]

is it the 9/16” x 2.63” ballistic ball joint specifically that fits into the CalTrac ends?

 

[Chevy1925]

Just fyi, when the poly wore out in my ballistic joints, i ordered more and they changed to delrin. Actually liked that better as delrin doesnt creak but is harder. Thats why there is a poly bushing at my axle end. Still rides nice.

Articulation limits via the joint were not my worry with only one joint at one end. Not even my lifted truck with no bump stops and inverting one side leaf spring has enough angle to max them. Tried it lol.

 

[Bdsankey]

So where is the picture of yours?

Long gone on an old phone haha, I'll see if I can dig some up.

is it the 9/16” x 2.63” ballistic ball joint specifically that fits into the CalTrac ends?

No, they are NOT a fitment for CalTrac's. I built my own long bars and used ballistic fab joints.

Just fyi, when the poly wore out in my ballistic joints, i ordered more and they changed to delrin. Actually liked that better as delrin doesnt creak but is harder. Thats why there is a poly bushing at my axle end. Still rides nice.

Articulation limits via the joint were not my worry with only one joint at one end. Not even my lifted truck with no bump stops and inverting one side leaf spring has enough angle to max them. Tried it lol.

Agreed, I think only the one spherical/ball end is needed. Thanks for the heads up on the delrin, I bet that is a nice improvement! I will end up rebuilding mine as I likely will put them on my dually since it's not an off-road rig, only a tow rig/dd.

Or I'll keep em and bolt them on when I want to sled pull the LB7, that would be easy to do as well.