LB7: BPU's for the LB7

[JOHNBOY]

BPU stands for Basic Performance Upgrades. These are modifications that don't require engine disassembly. Here is my list of basic power mods:

1: Tuning - EFILive, PPE, or custom EFI Live tunes. To get over 500RWHP I recommend EFI Live tuning done on a dyno. Every truck is different. What dynos well on one truck may not on another. Don’t over look canned tuning as it might get you there.
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2:4" exhaust with no cat front pipe and high flow muffler.
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3: Lift pump - While some might be able to dyno well with out it is best to have one. It will help your CP3 live and will help you sustain rail pressure
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4: Intake - A good aftermarket intake will help. I don’t care for the stock LB7 intake. I don’t care what the tests say. They dyno says my K&N FIPK made more power.
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5: Gages: I recommend at least a boost gage. EGT and fuel pressure gages are nice.
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6: Boost valve. Like the PPE valve can help. You want to get to 32 psi of boost on the gage. Some need the valve to get there some do not. Be careful the stock turbo will go boom at over 35psi pretty easily.
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7: Auto Transmission upgrade or Clutch upgrade - The stock Allison will hate you at over 360RWHP. A good converter and internal upgrade kit is a must IMHO. The stock manual trans clutch is barely good for stock power. The Dual Mass flywheel is junk. You will want to upgrade both. Currently the only upgrades are from South Bend Clutch. A single disk will hold but for only so long. I recommend a Dual Disk.

 

[RENODMAX]

Lets not forget one of the many method to hold the front end together. Other than that I agree totally.

 

[WanaDmaxsub]

I would lower the point the tranny starts to hate you down to 360 rwhp.

 

[JOHNBOY]

I would lower the point the tranny starts to hate you down to 360 rwhp.

Done. I was thinking crank not wheel hp. Thanks for catching that.:hug:

 

[Noreaster]

BPU stands for Basic Performance Upgrades. These are modifications that don't require engine disassembly. Here is my list of basic power mods:

1:Tuning - EFILive, PPE, or custom EFI Live tunes. To get over 500RWHP I recommend EFI Live tuning done on a dyno. Every truck is different. What dynos well on one truck may not on another. Dont over look canned tuning as it might get you there.
.
2:4" exhaust with no cat front pipe and high flow muffler.
.
3:Lift pump - While some might be able to dyno well with out it it is best to have one. It will hepl your CP3 live and will help you sustain rail pressure
.
4:Intake - A good aftermarket intake will help. I dont care for the stock LB7 intake. I dont care what the tests say. They dyno says my K&N FIPK made more power.
.
5: Gauges: I recommend at least a boost gauge. EGT and fuel pressure gauges are nice.
.
6: Boost valve or adjustable actuator. Like the PPE valve can help. You want to get to 32 psi of boost on the gauge. Some need the valve to get there some do not. Becareful the stock turbo will go boom at over 35psi pretty easily.
.
7:Auto Transmission upgrade or Clutch upgrade - The stock Allison will hate you at over 360RWHP. A good converter and internal upgrade kit is a must IMHO. The stock manual trans clutch is barely good for stock power. The Dual Mass flywheel is junk. You will want to upgrade both. Currently the only upgrades are from South Bend Clutch. A single disk will hold but for only so long. I recommend a Dual Disk.

fixed your spelling-gauges & recommend
modded regulator
A few other things that might not add any power but frees up restrictions-intake heater removal,drivers side manifold & fuel pickup
On #6 is that 32psi pre or post intercooler?

 

[tylerrustLB7]

Good little write up, for the LB7 boys.

 

[ZeroGravity58]

fixed your spelling-gauges & recommend
modded regulator
A few other things that might not add any power but frees up restrictions-intake heater removal,drivers side manifold & fuel pickup
On #6 is that 32psi pre or post intercooler?

If you have EFI live id just put in the LBZ reg....Alot cheaper with similar results. i picked up over 2,000 PSI on the rail by switching to the LBZ reg.

 

[fast03]

Thanks all. I like this thread since it is putting everything in one place. I am finallly gettiing more serious, and starting to build towards a dominant work stock class puller. I have alot to do to catch up with everybody it sounds like.

 

[WanaDmaxsub]

366rwhp is a predator 120 tune (On my truck). 330-340rwhp might even be a better#...
I would say 32psi measure post IC. Not sure why (could be spikes)but my SPA gauge will show a 10PSI differance between pre and post IC.

 

[fast03]

366rwhp is a predator 120 tune (On my truck). 330-340rwhp might even be a better#...
I would say 32psi measure post IC. Not sure why (could be spikes)but my SPA gauge will show a 10PSI differance between pre and post IC.

Lawrence, I am doing my boost gauge today and will go post IC. I am going to try to get set at 32psi with my bighead. I am trying to keep the turbo alive and be able to beat these california dodge pullers in the so called stock class. Getting EFI finally from Pat. so hopefully will ba able to try everything in Fontana in January
Steve

 

[JOHNBOY]

fixed your spelling-gauges & recommend
modded regulator
A few other things that might not add any power but frees up restrictions-intake heater removal,drivers side manifold & fuel pickup
On #6 is that 32psi pre or post intercooler?

I just spell and Grammar checked it.

The restrictions you mentioned are all good supporting mods. But not the basic ones needed. I have made over 500rwhp with a stock driverside manifold, no boost valve , and no modded regulator.

32psi is post intercooler measured at the intake neck. If you have a boost valve do not measure boost from the wastegate line.

Good little write up, for the LB7 boys.

Thanks!

If you have EFI live id just put in the LBZ reg....Alot cheaper with similar results. i picked up over 2,000 PSI on the rail by switching to the LBZ reg.

Wow that is a good gain. Honestly the stock regulator should be good. It takes a pulse width of 2800us to make 500rwhp. A healthy CP3 can easily maintain 21000psi+ at that pulse width.

 

[ZeroGravity58]

I just spell and Grammar checked it.

The restrictions you mentioned are all good supporting mods. But not the basic ones needed. I have made over 500rwhp with a stock driverside manifold, no boost valve , and no modded regulator.

32psi is post intercooler measured at the intake neck. If you have a boost valve do not measure boost from the wastegate line.


Thanks!



Wow that is a good gain. Honestly the stock regulator should be good. It takes a pulse width of 2800us to make 500rwhp. A healthy CP3 can easily maintain 21000psi+ at that pulse width.

Yea but with the LBZ reg im running 3150us and im holding 23,000 PSI on the rail : With the same pulse width and the stock LB7 reg i was between 20 and 21,000. I made 495HP and 940 torque with a stock LB7 CP3/reg and driverside manifold. I only had a PPE boost valve in with the PPE canned 350 tune.

 

[TheBac]

Excellent post John. With the exact combo you have listed I made 511/999 with PPE. I have not dyno'd Nick's EFI tune yet, but I'll bet you $10 it is better than that.

My stock CP3 will hold over 23000 commanded at WOT at the strip. Id have to go back to my logs to remember any more info, and ask Nick first if I can talk about it.

IMO, this should really be a sticky in the drag racing section. Then have Pat do one for LLYs and have Henry do one for LBZs.

 

[01Duramax6spd]

John: Do you feel a Billet Pickup or Mod'd CP3 as a benifit as well if one is on a stock motor and stock charger? I throw rail pressure codes with my 550hp tune .

 

[Noreaster]

theres already a LLY list

 

[WanaDmaxsub]

Lawrence, I am doing my boost gauge today and will go post IC. I am going to try to get set at 32psi with my bighead. I am trying to keep the turbo alive and be able to beat these california dodge pullers in the so called stock class. Getting EFI finally from Pat. so hopefully will ba able to try everything in Fontana in January
Steve

Steve, when dialin' in the boost settings do it with the A/C on. It makes a differance. With the A/C on you will see higher boost levels (I do anyway...). ...but then I also run a big tune as a daily driver...

 

[TheBac]

Steve, when dialin' in the boost settings do it with the A/C on. It makes a differance. With the A/C on you will see higher boost levels (I do anyway...). ...but then I also run a big tune as a daily driver...

Oh really? Another good trick to know....thanks wana!

 

[duramaximizer]

by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool.

 

[JOHNBOY]

John: Do you feel a Billet Pickup or Mod'd CP3 as a benifit as well if one is on a stock motor and stock charger? I throw rail pressure codes with my 550hp tune .

All can help. But simply put the stock turbo runs out of air before the stock pump runs out of fuel. With more air the CP3 can support over 600rwhp.

 

[Noreaster]

by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool.

you could put a tee in the supply line with a reg. going to the FICM & the other side teeing back into the line coming out of the module, probably need a check valve so it can't back feed.