Any "pro tips" for stripping waxy crap off the frame

[Hot COCOAL]

Did a couple quick searches and found little tie bits of what I'm looking for, but I'm looking for some ideas/steps some of you guys have used to strip the waxy crap GM uses to "protect" the frame. Once it's clean and bare I will be painting it with POR-15.

POR has "prep and paint" kits and several different strippers, de-greasers and/or wax remover type products which I think would work fine, I'm just hoping to hear about what has worked the best!

Thanks in advance!

 

[hondarider552]

Diesel.

 

[countrycorey]

Diesel.

What he said


Corey

 

[dirtydmax]

wax remover

Did a couple quick searches and found little tie bits of what I'm looking for, but I'm looking for some ideas/steps some of you guys have used to strip the waxy crap GM uses to "protect" the frame. Once it's clean and bare I will be painting it with POR-15.

POR has "prep and paint" kits and several different strippers, de-greasers and/or wax remover type products which I think would work fine, I'm just hoping to hear about what has worked the best!

Thanks in advance!

If you hit any automotive paint supply shop you can pick up a gal can of wax and grease remover,it's used to wash a painted surface before paint to remove contamination(finger prints,oil,wax)this should work well for light to moderate grime.scrub with a red scotch brite pad or the scrub pads for dishes.If you have nasty grime paint thinners or gun wash will eat it up just wear gloves if you use it.Por 15 is really good stuff!DON'T get it on your hands because it will take a month to wear off.Good luck

 

[SwitchBack]

I just did this. I used Por 15 on a few parts because we had some kicking around. And I bought a gallon of chasis saver for the bulk of the work. If I could go back in time I wouldn't of wasted my time with the Por. The chasis saver is much stronger with much less prep. I just wire brushed my frame with an attachment I bough for my grinder, pressure washed it and then blew it clean after. It's hard as a rock now. Literally took a hammer and tried to chip it with no luck.

 

[SwitchBack]

And yes both suck to get off your skin! My arms were covered!

 

[Ridin'GMC]

POR15 is good but it doesn't last as long as you would think. I've seen quite a few POR15 frames starting to rust after 3 years. Bedliner IMO is much better than POR15. My brother works at a powdercoating company and he's done a few POR15 frames, he mentioned some already are rusting out due to the high salt area we live in.

 

[SwitchBack]

POR15 is good but it doesn't last as long as you would think. I've seen quite a few POR15 frames starting to rust after 3 years. Bedliner IMO is much better than POR15. My brother works at a powdercoating company and he's done a few POR15 frames, he mentioned some already are rusting out due to the high salt area we live in.

I don't think it's a fix all by any mean. But I plan to pressure wash and out a skim coat on every summer to keep up with it. Living in the salt belt requires maintenance regardless of what's been done.

 

[jliddle]

POR - "Paint Over Rust"

Not really a good idea to begin with.

I would strip the frame with diesel and a scraper. Then wire wheel the whole frame. Lay down some good etch primer and hit it with a couple good coats of either undercoating or high quality frame paint. Eastwood sells some "chassis black" that looks good.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Never heard anyone say anything bad about it before, not that you are..

Bunts not like I'd just pour paint over rust either, although I didn't know that's what it stood for, lol

Here's one of the "kits" I'm looking at...
https://www.por15.com/mobile/ENGINE-PAINTING-KIT_p_49.html

 

[SwitchBack]

How big is that Por container? Your going to want at least 1/2 gallon. I'd say 3/4 to 1 gallon to put a heavy coat on with a brush. If you spray it it may take less but I brushed it to have a thick base coat.

Honestly look at chasis saver. My friends that helped me all were fans of it too. And they we're die hard Por guys.

It cost me $97 a gallon and Por was $169 when I was looking.

 

[OregonDMAX]

Por15 is less effective on clean metal it really only wants to stick to rust tbh.

I used chassis saver on my traction bars after letting them go raw steel for a winter. It only stuck to the surface rust it would not stick to the heim joint threaded inserts that I welded in the ends of the tubing they were too "clean".

 

[MACKIN]

POR 15 is a waste of money! For it to "work" you need factory fresh period. I have used it and seen many others go by the book on prep and it SUCKS!

I have heard the Eastwood stuff is better but never tried it myself

 

[MACKIN]

Por15 is less effective on clean metal it really only wants to stick to rust tbh.

I used chassis saver on my traction bars after letting them go raw steel for a winter. It only stuck to the surface rust it would not stick to the heim joint threaded inserts that I welded in the ends of the tubing they were too "clean".

Never heard that? If that were true it should have worked great on my Jeep! :rofl:

It failed

 

[OregonDMAX]

Never heard that? If that were true it should have worked great on my Jeep! :rofl:

It failed

Por15 still doesn't react well at all with road salt or deicer maybe that contributed?

 

[MACKIN]

I took a BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX IN PRIMER windshield frame prepped it to the tee as INSTRUCTED by the manufacture using their recommended prep products etc etc and not 3 years latter it is rusted to the point I can practically push my finger through it!!!

Can you feel my anger? :rofl:

I have used it elsewhere with and with out prep and have the same practical results. I don't believe it is worth the money IMO. The windsheild frame really angers me . Was a little bit of money plus glass and gaskets plus installation wasn't a breeze seeing I have a CJ7 front clip and YJ tub. Roll bar issues if you want to call it a roll bar

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Wow, I had heard and read all he "good" stuff about POR 15 and was sold on it, UNTIL NOW!!!

Thanks for the heads up guys!
I did some more research on the stuff and it really does sound like JUNK!

So far I've gathered that plain ol' diesel will strip the waxy shit off which seems pretty legit cuz the biggest problem area on my frame is just under the factory fuel filter location and POR15 is a waste of time and money...

So, I've read about some of the Eastwood stuff, seems like that might be a better way to go, I guess this isn't going to be as simple as I thought...what's new
:rofl:

 

[OregonDMAX]

Just curious is your frame starting to rust or you just don't like the "waxy crap" I think it does a very good job in my neck of the wood,s but then again I never get rain, only snow or sun and we use red cinder on the roads not salt or deicer.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Just curious is your frame starting to rust or you just don't like the "waxy crap" I think it does a very good job in my neck of the wood,s but then again I never get rain, only snow or sun and we use red cinder on the roads not salt or deicer.

Well, I hate that it comes off! If I'm crawlin around under it, I'll find the waxy shit on my clothes and it doesn't like to wash out to good, lol


But the real problem I have is right under the fuel filter and a few other key spots where various fluids have spilled out on the frame from having things apart several times... Every time I wipe said fluids off the frame it takes some of the protective layer off and I'd just prefer the frame to be painted, it'd be easier to clean and I think it looks better as well...

Now that the engine is out and I've de-greased everything I can see several spots that are bare metal and I figure it's a good time to address the issue, so I'm looking at options and looking for advise as to what others have done to protect the frame with alternative products

 

[07bluelbz]

WD 40 and paper towels works great. Take a flat scraper and scrape as much as possible, then use WD 40 to remove the residue. Follow that with a good wipe down with brake cleaner and then go to painting.