LB7: 03 LB7 Won't start when hot, Not Injectors?

GCncsuHD

Go Pack
Aug 21, 2008
81
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Statesville/Raleigh NC
I feel for you man, I have a uncle in Lousiana who is driving his truck all the way up here to Omaha just because his dealers are pulling this shit on him...it blows.

Now, for the experts is it possible to achieve 160mpa at idle from a fuel system that has good balance rates but bad return rates?

Would be interesting to know. I DO know that while trying to crank it, while monitoring with the PPE, it will not go above 700psi while cranking, but needs to reach what 1400 to crank? I know I have watched it when cold and it will ramp straight up to like 2000 or so when it fires, but right now it just stays right about 700psi while trying to crank.

Now when they did the rail pressure test, ill be damned if it didn't go right up and bounce back and forth from 160-162MPa without a problem.
 

Josh2002cc

That Uncle
Apr 2, 2007
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Give it some time, someone who "knows" how this all works will chime in. I just remember reading someplace that cp3 can command more than 160 with shit injectors. Time will tell....
 

GCncsuHD

Go Pack
Aug 21, 2008
81
0
0
Statesville/Raleigh NC
Well here it is the next morning, still no crank even after sitting for 18 hours. I'm about to resort to starting fluid, I HAVE to get this truck out of here before it gets the boot or towed by the school.
 

MaxFarmer

<--Heavy Smoker
Jan 22, 2007
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Albion, Nebraska
Man, ether wouldnt even start mine, and I didnt want to use it, my old man insisted---
Its worth a shot I guess.....

Do you have a buddy that could at least pull you to a parking lot or somewhere different for the time being?
 

GCncsuHD

Go Pack
Aug 21, 2008
81
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0
Statesville/Raleigh NC
Man, ether wouldnt even start mine, and I didnt want to use it, my old man insisted---
Its worth a shot I guess.....

Do you have a buddy that could at least pull you to a parking lot or somewhere different for the time being?

No ether, I couldn't bring myself to use it, I tried a bit of WD40 with no luck, but didn't want to push my luck even with that. Wound up having it towed back to my apartment complex, and my dad is on the way with a trailer that hopefully is long enough to haul it home. Guess when I get home next week I will haul it to a different dealer and try my luck, right now its just dead weight.

LOL at buddy towing it somewhere, that tow truck had a time just getting that CCLB out of that lot, I would hate to put the liability of pulling that truck through there on a friend of mine, besides it SUCKS turning/stopping that beast without power brakes/steering.
 

reuter

Slow and Smokey ;)
Feb 4, 2009
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Somonauk
i was under the impression it was fuel pooling in the cylinders from the injectors hanging....ive been wrong before though and i had the same symptoms, 8 new injectors later shes been good to me :)
 

Filadog

New member
May 25, 2008
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Central NC
I assume you go to NC State but are from Satesville. Why don't you try posting in the NC Dmax section to see if anyone knows of a non-stealer dealer? All you need is an honest service dept and they will flip for the injectors once they do the return rates, assuming they are bad which is pretty good odds. There is a slight possibility your CP3 pump is weak but that will not be covered by the warranty and it will be pricey. Just need to find a good service dept to rule that out by checking the output pressure of the CP3 pump. I heard of a dealership that did one for free on a truck with over 100K but they are no longer in business:( I hear Randy Marion Chev. of Mooresville has a large med-duty diesel service dept. They are not too far from you. Might give them a try if you haven't already. City Chev. of Charlotte is supposed to be good also. Good luck man!
 

kevinsdmax

New member
Feb 28, 2009
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sorry about your dmax. I just replaced 4 of my injectors on the left bank. It started then died and has not started since. I get a PO102 code on the OBD2 reader but that doesnt tell me much. Mass volume low circut input or voltage. When I prime the fuel system I get fuel from the bleeder but when I took off the outlet hose there was air bubbles. I prime the fuel system the pump gets firm but still can pump. Should the manual pump get hard or will it be able to pump still?? How do you check to see if fuel system is sucking air and what method do you use to find the leak? And also what is the box called that says Bosch EDU and fuel runs thru it and has 2 cannon plugs that hook up to it??
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,338
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Mid Michigan
Are you absolutely sure you arent simply losing prime in the fuel system? MAybe a hidden air leak in the filter head, or maybe a worn hose? Could even be a small hole in a metal fuelline somewhere?

Might be worth your time to pressure test the fuel system and see. Dont know if you're a member at the Place, but this thread could help: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294902
 

kevinsdmax

New member
Feb 28, 2009
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I did finally find a leak in a hose. replaced it and the pump will pump up know but still will not start
 

kevinsdmax

New member
Feb 28, 2009
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yes praise god that was it. guess I did not crank on it long enough the first time. Replaced hose from metal tubing top of engine to common rail edu. I found it by pumping the primer pump fast and for a while letting it bleed, finally heard a slight sucking noise and pin pointed the leak. Thanks for the help. Sorry I intruded on this thread maybe it will help you.
 

GCncsuHD

Go Pack
Aug 21, 2008
81
0
0
Statesville/Raleigh NC
I assume you go to NC State but are from Satesville. Why don't you try posting in the NC Dmax section to see if anyone knows of a non-stealer dealer? All you need is an honest service dept and they will flip for the injectors once they do the return rates, assuming they are bad which is pretty good odds. There is a slight possibility your CP3 pump is weak but that will not be covered by the warranty and it will be pricey. Just need to find a good service dept to rule that out by checking the output pressure of the CP3 pump. I heard of a dealership that did one for free on a truck with over 100K but they are no longer in business:( I hear Randy Marion Chev. of Mooresville has a large med-duty diesel service dept. They are not too far from you. Might give them a try if you haven't already. City Chev. of Charlotte is supposed to be good also. Good luck man!
I had a thread with exactly that at the DP, the dealer I was recommended to in Raleigh gave me the run around. I'm probably going to haul the truck to Randy Marion tomorrow, (I just hope their diesel tech knows a little more than their gas techs, because I was dumbfounded at their lack of knowledge last time I dealt with them), if not I will try either City or Parks chevrolet.
Are you absolutely sure you arent simply losing prime in the fuel system? MAybe a hidden air leak in the filter head, or maybe a worn hose? Could even be a small hole in a metal fuelline somewhere?

Might be worth your time to pressure test the fuel system and see. Dont know if you're a member at the Place, but this thread could help: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294902
I did that a few weeks ago, although I can't remember if I posted the results in here or the DP, but after pressurizing it maybe 3psi, I could hear air coming out above the tank, but it did not sound like a hissing like a leak, but more like it was going through a filter like the charcoal filter vents on gas tanks, no one was ever able to confirm for me if there was one on top of the tank or not, as well as I saw 3 others that posted the EXACT same thing, and they never got an answer as well? Other than that there was no hissing/leaks anywhere on the truck. Each time, after cracking open the bleeder screw, a single pump on the primer produced a pure stream of fuel, no bubbles. Any Ideas?
 

GCncsuHD

Go Pack
Aug 21, 2008
81
0
0
Statesville/Raleigh NC
I did that a few weeks ago, although I can't remember if I posted the results in here or the DP, but after pressurizing it maybe 3psi, I could hear air coming out above the tank, but it did not sound like a hissing like a leak, but more like it was going through a filter like the charcoal filter vents on gas tanks, no one was ever able to confirm for me if there was one on top of the tank or not, as well as I saw 3 others that posted the EXACT same thing, and they never got an answer as well? Other than that there was no hissing/leaks anywhere on the truck. Each time, after cracking open the bleeder screw, a single pump on the primer produced a pure stream of fuel, no bubbles. Any Ideas?

Still a mystery huh? Seems each thread I searched and found with that questioned died right after it was posted, much like mine?

Anyway the dealer called today, truck is up and running with 8 new injectors:D, told me the bill would be $220 including new fuel filter and change, diagnostic fee and some special sealant? that the service guy had no clue about, and I would have to ask the tech when I go to pick the truck up on Friday. I had a brand new AC Delco fuel filter sitting in the backseat, but oh well, I'm not angry about that as long as it starts and runs reliably now, and the service guy was pretty good to deal with.

I won't be able to pick the truck up till Friday since I am away at school right now, but at least when I go to get it, it won't be returning the way it arrived :joker:

cid__0304091118.jpg

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In case you didn't notice, she's a huge bitch, almost didn't fit on the trailer, (Probably shouldn't have, but the bigger equipment trailer was in the mountain's at my brother's house)
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And yes thats a gasser pulling it:baby:, did pretty damn good if may say so, especially with the 5.13s:rolleyes:
 
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pezsez

New member
Mar 2, 2010
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0
I have this exact same problem on my 03 lb7, its started acting up around 116,000 it starts fine when its cold and doesnt want to start when its hot. It will crank over when its below 110 degrees not easily but 5-10 cranks. After that it has extreme problems starting, and one time it wouldnt even start got it towed and they did a fuel pressure test when it was cold said it was fine. And it started right up. THER IS NO WHITE SMOKE AT ALL, what you guys think it is fuel pump, pressure regulator, or injectors?

recelty done was fuel filter 1000 miles ago, water pump, radiator flush, tranny and tranny filter, oil change.
 
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jonhammer

New member
Mar 23, 2010
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0
I had this same issue last year with my 03. My problem was bad sensor in the cooling system telling it not to start. It was a $150 fix at my local shop.
 

kerrykap

New member
Aug 23, 2010
1
0
0
not starting hot

I have an 03 3500 diesel which i put into service in Nov. 02. I have exactly the same story as you and the stealers are no help. after studying the issue that we have and talking to a guy that rebuilds the primer pumps for these trucks, I believe that the problem is a vacuum leak either in the first stage of the fuel pump or inthe primer / filter system. these engines have a 3 stage pump that builds the fuel rail pressure, and if rail pressure does not reach the required pressure, the injectors won't open and therefore will not start.

the good news is that the no start issue can be overcome with a shot of starting fluid in the breather pipe while cranking. it means you need two people to do it, but it will get you going.

the heat from the engine must be expanding an otherwise unnoticed reduced vacuum leak between the pump and primer system (because the primer itself is always full) which is why we all have a slower start time cold. i am planning to solve the problem on my truck this week, I'll keep you posted with what I find, oh, it is definitely not injectors :)
 

BobcatGuy

New member
Mar 9, 2011
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0
Oh Please help!!

I read this last post, and this is what I am experiencing. When cold it has a problem starting.

I completly agree with you on the injectors not opening and what the dealers are telling me is that I have bad injectors....

Please let me know if you found out anything more on this possible leak, or if anyone else can help out.

Things I have tested:
using AutoEnginuity Scan tool I have
- Commanded 160 Mpa at IDLE gets 85 -95 Mpa, however a litte more throttle will get it up to 160 mpa ( But this should not be done I am told for a proper test) So My NEW pump that the dealer replaced only gets to 85 - 95 Mpa, however this pump that was installed was RUSTY, excpet for the FRP and the Gearator pump on the back of the High pressure pump. I cannot figure out why these two parts are shiny new and the main high pressure part of the pump is rusty. Manufacture date was November 2008, and installed end of Aug 2010?, 2 year old pump? I ordered a cp3 pump from the same dealer just to get pictures, the manufacture date was only 10 month prior to when I got it. The one I ordered had a sticker that said Product of Czeck Republic. Where the one the dealer changed out had a sticker that Said Made in USA. ( Part numbers are correct on this one) I STRONLGY beleive that they put in a used pump, and then changed over the FRP and Gear pump to get it to work. 3 days after I got the truck back, the same problem started, Ie Hard starts when a bit cooler. Less then 10 Dec Cel.

other then only getting about 90 Mpa, I checked the balance rates for each injector, I only did at idle, but they were anywhere from -2 to +2, on occasion I seen some change to -3 but very brief. I will check when in drive later.

I also commanded each injector off seperatley. The RPM fluctuated the same for each one, about 20 - 30 Rpm up and down. All pretty much the same, none made a drastic difference.

I do have the GM books on this truck, and have read up on testing return rates, high pressure side tests. Problem is I dont have the proper tools to do this. Im sure I can get a few graduated cylinders and do these test, but is it worth testing the return rates if the balance rates are what they are?

One last Item I forgot to mention is that even in my garage when temp is about 5 - 10 Deg Cel, I had the scan tool connected, while cranking at about 140-150 rpm, the rail pressure was only getting up to 1000 - 1150psi

When engine was warm, I disconnected the injectors ( all 8 ) and cracked it over ( yup set alot of codes) but I did this to see what the rail pressure was when cranking at 150 rpm, i was getting 10 or 11 Mpa ( Sorry, I forgot to change units on scan tool) Again this is with a warm engine. Will try in morning when cools down.

The fuel primer takes ussualy takes between 8 - 15 pumps if it is left for a while, ie a few days, BUT when opening the fuel port at the front right where the pressure gauge goes, I see fuel come out on the first pump, with no air.

At the end of the day, I think they put in a used pump, and it didnt last as long as they wanted. But considering that what they did was criminal fraud, I want to be sure when I in there that I am 100% certain they know that I have the info to back myself up with the condition of the pump and its ratings.

It was so rusty, I though it was the original, they are so lucky the pump wasnt from 2001, since my truck was a 2002...

Any insight would be helpful. I am going to need the truck every day for work in a month and want this problem to go away.

Additionally FRP term I used may not be right, I am reffering to the selenoid on the high pressure pump (Regulator?)

Also: When monitoring desired and actual rail pressure they are the same, and fluctuate slightly from each other as the throttle is pressed.
When started engine runs smooth, fuel economy is not the best, 430 Km on a tank, pulling traler and bobcat ( total unit weight truck and equipment is 12000KG, and city driving)
Truck has 150000 Km's on it, Injectors replaced at 65000Km's and 110000 Km's, first time may have only been bad ones, not sure, all 8 replaced the second time, yup, Gm's finest product. According to this km/injector ratio... or is it Injector/Km ratio? yah.. enough said.

p.s. This all started August of 2010. Literally no problems, just parked at home, went to go to work the next morning, truck wont start.
Now what I notice while cranking is white smoke from tail pipe, large poof when finnaly gets running. Glow plugs new, tested, glow plug relay tested, feedback working, Intake air heater working, Fuel warmer working, new filter, no leaks at filter base, tested pressure after priming goes from 10 psi to 2 psi after 5 minutes or so.
 
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