Fixing my LBZ/ truck build

[Dozerboy]

Looks like you have just about everything to swap it on. But you'll need to tap a drain line on the oil pan. I had my upper oil pan removed and welded an -12 o-ring boss at the front beneath the damper as I felt that was the best place to put it to accept a -12 jic fitting as I would have more options to make any changes using an o ring boss fitting. As for the air filter, I use AFE filter with a dust cover. Is it a race cover?

Yes has a race cover. Bullseye billet S480 with a 1.32AR

Yes I'm gonna have to drill and trap a hole in the upper pan for the drain. I've seen a picture of it done toward the back on the right hand side of the pan. Is there anything that dictates where I drill and tap other than what's convenient for the routing of the hose?

 

[JoshH]

Any flange with a groove, as shown in the picture, can (and should in my opinion) have an o-ring inserted in it to help flange sealing. One thing you will have to do is get the MAF flange converted to the correct LBZ sensor.

 

[Dozerboy]

Power driven diesel air filter is what I run. Mines the performer series , but they also have the dustbowl, for a truck that might see dirtier conditions then a street truck

I had seen one of their ads recently. I wondered if they were any better then anything else. I'd definitely be running one of their dust bowl series just because this is can push me way over what's safe for my stock motor.

 

[Dozerboy]

Any flange with a groove, as shown in the picture, can (and should in my opinion) have an o-ring inserted in it to help flange sealing. One thing you will have to do is get the MAF flange converted to the correct LBZ sensor.

I was curious about that. I knew the sensor wasn't right but I didn't know if the LBZ one would just bolt in place. Even if I had to drill and tap new holes. Can you point me in the right direction? Am I looking for an adapter or are we cutting off this one and welding a new one on?

I'm kind of surprised it's not correct since this was supposedly on an LBZ last. But the guy that I bought it from was in the process of putting it on his LLY.

 

[Dozerboy]

I am looking at adding an oil temperature gauge and an exhaust back pressure gauge to my truck. I know we have a good thread on oil temperature, but I didn't see a lot about exhaust back pressure. Do I need exhaust back pressure more than just for tuning? I was thinking about maybe after I getting it tuned to use the gas the exhaust back pressure gauge as a boost gauge between the 2 turbos. I'm not really sure if that's something that important to monitor. Or if I just want overall boost.

Are there good kits out there someone can recommend for exhaust pressure? I was thinking about stainless steel hardware and making it so I could maybe unhook it. I was reading about the necessity of some sort of filter and issues with gauge flutter from the exhaust pulses. The Speed Hut the gauges I'm gonna use say they have a special calibration for exhaust pressure gauges they didn't seem to think the exhaust pulses would be an issue. They couldn't comment about the need for a filter. Although I don't know how many diesel guys are using their stuff.

 

[Woody35]

I am looking at adding an oil temperature gauge and an exhaust back pressure gauge to my truck. I know we have a good thread on oil temperature, but I didn't see a lot about exhaust back pressure. Do I need exhaust back pressure more than just for tuning? I was thinking about maybe after I getting it tuned to use the gas the exhaust back pressure gauge as a boost gauge between the 2 turbos. I'm not really sure if that's something that important to monitor. Or if I just want overall boost.

Are there good kits out there someone can recommend for exhaust pressure? I was thinking about stainless steel hardware and making it so I could maybe unhook it. I was reading about the necessity of some sort of filter and issues with gauge flutter from the exhaust pulses. The Speed Hut the gauges I'm gonna use say they have a special calibration for exhaust pressure gauges they didn't seem to think the exhaust pulses would be an issue. They couldn't comment about the need for a filter. Although I don't know how many diesel guys are using their stuff.

I was looking into a drive pressure gauge. Coiled copper tubing and a particle trap seemed to be a popular choice.

I have a gauge hooked up to read my atmosphere turbo boost. My CTS2 only reads up to 40 PSI even though I have a 10 bar Map Sensor and the ECM can see the higher pressure/can be logged. Gives me a quick indication of total boost/load that I can see while driving.

 

[Dozerboy]

I did a little test fitting today. I know these turbo kits have come with several options over the years. So I'm still trying to work through what all needs to be moved.
Looks like I can keep the 2nd battery room wise, but I'm not sure how feasible it is to keep it in its factory location with all the heat and everything of the other turbo.
I saw in most of HSP's kits the factory fuel filter didn't have to be moved, but it doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room.
Can the metal coolant line for the heater core just be bent out of the way?
Are most guys able to bend the oil dipstick out of the way with the factory mounts or does it need to be bend and secured in another way?
I like the factory test port for fuel pressure, but it's definitely in the way. Maybe I can take the fitting off and 90* it over or just cap it off.

 

[Dozerboy]

Thanks for those that have helps me out. I got some parts rolling in from Brad and a few other odds and ends. I'm not I'm not sure when I became the type of douchebag that needs 5 different gauges in my truck but here I am. Drive and oil temp added. The oil temp was getting me nervous. It gave me some trouble getting it to seal. Finally on the third try I just tighten the piss out of the fitting and let it sit actually 24 hours for the sealant to dry. The coolant tank showed up. It looks pretty nice. Not that I know what I'm looking at, but it's made for the Turbo LS guys. Pretty sure I'll have plenty of room and it looks way better then what came with the kit or what's in most other kits.

I think all I need to figure out still is an air filter. I haven't dug into it too far yet but I'm seeing some 5 x 9 filters and 5 x 12. Would something as big as a 5x12 fit? I'm assuming when they say 5 that's the size of the intake pipe.

 

[1FastBrick]

What brand are those gauges? They look really nice.

 

[Bdsankey]

I did a little test fitting today. I know these turbo kits have come with several options over the years. So I'm still trying to work through what all needs to be moved.
Looks like I can keep the 2nd battery room wise, but I'm not sure how feasible it is to keep it in its factory location with all the heat and everything of the other turbo.

I've always ran a thermal blanket on the battery and turbine housing when keeping the battery in the OEM location.

I saw in most of HSP's kits the factory fuel filter didn't have to be moved, but it doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room.

I have not tried to install a compound kit on a truck with a factory filter, I have always removed them/trucks haven't had them.

Can the metal coolant line for the heater core just be bent out of the way?
Are most guys able to bend the oil dipstick out of the way with the factory mounts or does it need to be bend and secured in another way?

I've usually had to get creative. Once flexible dipsticks became available for them I started using those and it's made life easier that's for sure.

I like the factory test port for fuel pressure, but it's definitely in the way. Maybe I can take the fitting off and 90* it over or just cap it off.

Thanks for those that have helps me out. I got some parts rolling in from Brad and a few other odds and ends. I'm not I'm not sure when I became the type of douchebag that needs 5 different gauges in my truck but here I am. Drive and oil temp added. The oil temp was getting me nervous. It gave me some trouble getting it to seal. Finally on the third try I just tighten the piss out of the fitting and let it sit actually 24 hours for the sealant to dry. The coolant tank showed up. It looks pretty nice. Not that I know what I'm looking at, but it's made for the Turbo LS guys. Pretty sure I'll have plenty of room and it looks way better then what came with the kit or what's in most other kits.

I think all I need to figure out still is an air filter. I haven't dug into it too far yet but I'm seeing some 5 x 9 filters and 5 x 12. Would something as big as a 5x12 fit? I'm assuming when they say 5 that's the size of the intake pipe.

I personally recommend and run nothing but Power Driven Diesel air filters. This is backed up by their dust bowl filter showing extremely low levels of intake vacuum (I will find the log if someone really wants the proof) during Diesel Power Challenge with a single S480/96/1.10 T6.

Zero gunk in the intake so it's doing it's job. I am not a dealer nor affiliated with them, I just believe in the product.

https://powerdriven.com/products/power-driven-4-performance-air-filter?_pos=1&_fid=4b0d4a182&_ss=c

 

[1TRIKHD]

Thanks for those that have helps me out. I got some parts rolling in from Brad and a few other odds and ends. I'm not I'm not sure when I became the type of douchebag that needs 5 different gauges in my truck but here I am. Drive and oil temp added. The oil temp was getting me nervous. It gave me some trouble getting it to seal. Finally on the third try I just tighten the piss out of the fitting and let it sit actually 24 hours for the sealant to dry. The coolant tank showed up. It looks pretty nice. Not that I know what I'm looking at, but it's made for the Turbo LS guys. Pretty sure I'll have plenty of room and it looks way better then what came with the kit or what's in most other kits.

I think all I need to figure out still is an air filter. I haven't dug into it too far yet but I'm seeing some 5 x 9 filters and 5 x 12. Would something as big as a 5x12 fit? I'm assuming when they say 5 that's the size of the intake pipe.

Like Brad said about the power driven filters, I agree with him. I have the performer application, as my truck wont see any dusty/dirty conditions. I went 5x12 and the first number is for the size of intake pipe. Guage look good as well.

 

[Dozerboy]

What brand are those gauges? They look really nice.

Speed Hut they are awesome. They can be completely customized. Have warning lights and can recall min and max readings.

 

[1FastBrick]

Sweet!!!

 

[Bdsankey]

Speed Hut they are awesome. They can be completely customized. Have warning lights and can recall min and max readings.

Speed Hut makes some killer gauges. On the analog side it's nearly impossible to go wrong with Speed Hut, ISSPRO, and Auto Meter.

On the digital side I'm a bit of a whore for Banks iDash 1.8 units.

 

[TheBac]

It's been a long time since I've seen a Trippen Mount. Most people now have no idea what a big deal they were.

 

[1FastBrick]

It's been a long time since I've seen a Trippen Mount. Most people now have no idea what a big deal they were.

Those things are on Ebay now in various configurations.

 

[Chevy1925]

I still have an og trippin mount in the limo. Funny how some of this stuff becomes rare over the years

 

[darkness]

I still have mine for the Edge monitor lol.