The engineers obviously didnt notice it. Heck, even putting a small half-moon cutout in the outer ring of the balancer would've solved the problem.
Fixing my LBZ/ truck build
- Thread starter Dozerboy
- Start date
I can't remember if that stud also goes through the timing cover. It likely makes it easier to hang the part during assembly. They never think about service after the fact.
This is what I think the real reason is. It allows the part to 100% self locate and hold itself in place while the operator grabs the other fasteners.
Time for brakes and stainless brake lines. 215k and 20 years and I think I got may monies worth. The fronts might have made it 300k if it wasn't for the rust. The pedal feels really good however I'm still not sure stops anywhere near as good as the newer trucks. I was surprised to see I don't have rear axle seal leaks yet. But since I had everything apart and replaced the emergency brake pads I'm sure they will start leaking soon. I had to do a ABS bleed and bleed the heck out of the lines to get the air out.
Hawk front rotors and AC Delco rears. With PowerStop Z36 pads. Dmax store lines that fit great.
Hawk front rotors and AC Delco rears. With PowerStop Z36 pads. Dmax store lines that fit great.
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I have the kryptonite lines from dmaxstore, and they do fit great. Why did you do 2 different brand rotors?
I have never seen Kryptonite offer brake lines. I think you mean Dmaxstore brand which is Crown Performance.
I actually did the 2 different rotors just cause I was being cheap and I was irritated the prices had gone up on the Delcos. So instead of researching to make sure I was going to get the right parts, good brand, and everything all over again. I just bought the 2 different ones I had already don the research on. Front rotors with a same design as the rears from Delcos were $200 more for the set. The rears from Hawk where $300 more then the Delcos.
I looked back on my account with them. Reciept says kryptonite stainless brake line kit from 2016. Crown might of made them, but they say kryptonite on the lines. Either way doesn't really matter. Quality is great and fitment was on point
intresting... I have not seen them before. I recently got the DMax store branded ones and they are made by crown. The Tag is right on them. Nice Stuff.
If it still bugs you and you can still return them, the napa UP RA880000 are identical to your rears. We use them a bunch
The AC Delco performance rotors are the Raybestos R300 rotors. It's cheaper to buy the Raybestos brand than AC Delco since Raybestos made the rotors for AC Delco and AC Delco marked up the price for their name. I bought the Raybestos R300 last year for mine. 56828PER for the rear and 580000PER for the front.
Just looked up and apparently they filed bankruptcy this month with 2 other companies as a parent company so it seems the rotors are being unavailable at the time.
Just looked up and apparently they filed bankruptcy this month with 2 other companies as a parent company so it seems the rotors are being unavailable at the time.
I guess I should have seen this coming but it looks like with these slotted these brake pads are gonna be dustier than I was hoping for. The pads are dust free on my 2022, buy not on my LBZ so far. I have been driving it pretty hard rebuilding my tunes after I crashed my tuning computer. Maybe normal driving will be better.
There's no gasket or seals between the to flanges. I like to use a healthy amount of Anti-seize on the mating surface and inside the v band clamp. Helps it seal up better and clamp tighten up without binding
Power driven diesel air filter is what I run. Mines the performer series , but they also have the dustbowl, for a truck that might see dirtier conditions then a street truck
Yes there is an o ring for that flange on the intake tubing side to the turbo outlet neck. I use Caterpillar part as they're pretty much universal to other manufacturers for the o-ring. No ring there will cause a boost leak, however the turbo compressor cover has no seal in to the turbo cartridge. While pressure testing at high pressure, it will have a small leak, you can use a small amount of rtv to help seal that better against the flange on the turbo compressor cover to the cartridge.
Looks like you have just about everything to swap it on. But you'll need to tap a drain line on the oil pan. I had my upper oil pan removed and welded an -12 o-ring boss at the front beneath the damper as I felt that was the best place to put it to accept a -12 jic fitting as I would have more options to make any changes using an o ring boss fitting. As for the air filter, I use AFE filter with a dust cover. Is it a race cover?
Shouldn't be an issue soaking that comp wheel in some aluminum wheel cleaner