it was a 454 lol its bored and stroked
realistic motor build costs...
- Thread starter Kappa9012
- Start date
454?
what is it now? 496?
70 over and 4.25'' stroke brings it to 498 CI
Sounds fun! I've always want to do a 383... I need a Nova to put it in first though!
goin in an old square body chevy. fully gutted. th400 manual valve body
Dang that is sexy! Good work man. :thumb:
What all are you including at 20k if you don't mind me asking?
Ahh, everything, probably.
I consider myself to be more of a realist than an optimist, and I have my build spec'd at roughly 24G.
This is basically a stg 2 engine block and heads from So Cal, possibly with a billet crank, and labor to do it all, including the R and R of the engine itself
The stg 2 engine by itself is a little over 18G, add 625 head studs and a couple other goodies and the 20G mark gets quickly eclipsed
AND
This does not include- injectors and flow modification, turbo(s) modded cp3(s)
Manifolds and up up pipes, intercooler, I/C plumbing etc, etc which I pretty much have all of this stuff, so just the stg2 So Cal engine and labor is gonna cost me about 24G
:screwy:
:broke:
:barf:
since you need a billet crank...
Since you already have the peripherals, Kappa, I think you could get out of this for about $7-10K, depending on how much you can do yourself. Pistons/rods, H bearings, head/main studs, tigged waterpump, valve springs + headwork are what I can think of.
Cocoal :doh:
Cocoal :doh:
Plus gaskets/seals, fluids, and machine work (key at minimum...pins are probably bent already as is) and balancing.
Rods, forged fly cut pistons, cam, girdle, new pined water and oil pump, custom heads, studs(head,main,injector,rocker) lots of billet parts, ati damper, billet flexplate, a few one off machine work. Everything done by Randys machine.
good call on the pinned pumps.
Bac...
:hifinger::rofl::joker: yes it "can be done" for half of what I stated
:doh: all ya want
sure, you can get the parts for close to ten grand to slap an engine together. But is that what a guy really wants to do? I don't. I believe the ol' adage "you get what you pay for"
For one, I am not going to turn a wrench on any of it(or at least I'm not planning to) second, I PLAN ON buying a complete done deal stg2 performance built LBZ block and heads with all the trimmings from So Cal, no core exchange.
Then I will have a 600whp engine to put in another vehicle, like a 68-70 chevelle. Will I actually go for the billet crank:dontknow: I know it's not necessary, I like peace of mind.
Bottom line, the stg 2 engine and heads and 625 studs are a solid 19G before any labor cost to R&R the engine. I know for a fact that this package will handle all the power of my desire and more, and be reliable and problem free for years to come, and that my friends is priceless. How many of you want to dick around digging back int your engine after it's been "built" I don't, I have to believe that there is a right and wrong way to go about it, and trying to get out on the cheap is not the right way
The OP asked for "REALISTIC" build costs, I don't believe 10G is realistic, if you are buying new parts, which is the only way I would do it. Is 24g realistic, mmm, not really, but right there you have the top and bottom of the spectrum, so split it and 16G sounds pretty Damn realistic for a 900whp build, done, turn key and driving
Nothing can be called "realistic" because you don't know what you'll find when you tear down.
If it were a brand new engine that's a different story.
If it were a brand new engine that's a different story.
"reliable and problem free for years to come" and "900hp" do not belong in the same discussion.
Cocoa says he is realistic. I have no idea what that means judging by his internet ass-hattery. Why don't we let the guys who have actually built motors council rather than people taking guesses? That's not aimed at you Steve, I just refuse to quote Cocoa.
"reliable and problem free for years to come" and "900hp" do not belong in the same discussion.
First of all, you cut up my paragraph pretty good to make that quote.
Reliable, years to come, 900whp and a 10G build, yeah, you're right. Those statements don't belong together
However, I do believe you can put them in the same conversation when talking about a 20g+ build, for a non competition rig, for an engine that will spend an hour, if not only minutes of its life at the 900whp level. My bone stock long block 07 classic has over 1600hrs on it, 450 of them have been on a built trans efi live tune with the potential of 550+whp, which i drive it in every day. My personal goal is only for 850whp, while nothing to scoff at, with the way things are being built now days I truly believe a "reliable" build can be attained at that power level, it's just not going to be cheap, most of the time I will only be driving it @ 650whp. So when considering all that, yes I believe "reliable" and "problem free for years to come" are possible, im talkin like 3-5 years, not 10. sure some things may need to be replaced, but I don't believe it will be pistons or rods, or anything major. At least I hope.
After its been built, the longevity of the build rest solely in the person behind the wheel, the foot behind the skinny pedal, how I take care of it and what power level I use it at during its lifespan, however long that span may be:thumb: