LBZ: Project "Cracked Piston"
- Thread starter Wikid
- Start date
It will mainly be to clean up all the hoses. I never liked the old block where the stock fuel filter was tied into. Also when the previous owner installed the airdog they have all the extra hose just coiled up.
I am going to run the CAT 2 micron absolute filter. Then I am going to use XRP -8 line up to a block on the firewall with a port for a pressure gauge, then -8 direct to the CP3.
The returns will all tie into a block then -6 back to the return. I was thinking of making some small blocks for the injector returns to turn into -3 lines, then I can run a braided line where I want and tie it into the main return block. IIRC there is 4 returns total? 2 injectors, the driver side fuel rail, and the CP3 I dont recall if the pass side FR had a return.
Page 11 for the CAT filter ratings in the link below, also, any of you use an oil cooler in the larger HP/TQ engines and would it lessen the probability of a cracked piston.?
http://albahar.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/SEBU9208-00.pdf
Hey guys, got my parts, and my motor is getting assembled should be able to get it shipped back next week. I need some info, on my new turbo thats going in the valley they use coolant. anyone ever ran AN fittings and braided line to upper rad and thermostat housing? I know there is some bypass fitting in the upper rad tube that it uses not sure what that fitting does but want to try to get some AN fittings on those places as well. anyone have any experience doing something like that? or is there a better way to run the coolant lines for the turbo?
Wikid
Wikid
The turbo coolant lines are hose & the fittings have nipples
That's a thermostat for the turbo that screws into the coolant tube on top of the engine
If you want the braided hose & an fitting look just get some of those braided hose sleeves
That's a thermostat for the turbo that screws into the coolant tube on top of the engine
If you want the braided hose & an fitting look just get some of those braided hose sleeves
I kinda figured it was a thermostat for the turbo.
Not so much after the look as much as wanting to do some better routing of the hoses and reduce the chances for leaks. I hate the way the one barb routes under the turbo and between the turbine housing and Y bridge. When I did my twin install the first time the hose that went into the thermostat housing constantly leaked. Needed 2 hose clamps just to get it to stop.
Wikid
Make sure to post up some results once you have it back together, my new setup is going to be %100 identical to yours with the exception of 100 overs and would like to see some feedback.
Will do, I have a lot of little tweaks I want to do in the engine compartment. I hated the heat mat that came stock with the truck and its all been replaced with a heat shielding mat on the fire wall and hood.
Ive been posting some picture to my Instagram, still waiting on the motor though and for it to be a little warmer.
Also boostwhore, how do you like that kryptonite front end? I have shit turning radius now but would like a much stiffer steering setup for the drags.
Wikid
https://www.instagram.com/w1kid/
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Fuel feed is a -8 AN from the lift pump with a 1/8 NPT fitting for a pressure sensors at some point. The -8 is a bit tricky to get tight on the CP3 though I thought about dropping to -6 at the motor but I feel I was able to get it tight enough after modifying a wrench.
The return took a bit more work. I got lucky and found that -3 AN brake fittings for braided line fit well onto the stock injector return lines. I did some leak testing with them and saw no bubbles with about 30 PSI of air. Not sure how much pressure the return sees. Both of these lines tie into a block a made, then another port for the fuel rail return, which shouldnt be returning any fuel since i have the PPE Race fitting but I didnt see a good way to block it off in a nice way. Thought about tig welding it closed. and might still do. The big return from CP3 also goes into the block and then a single -6 an line takes all the fuel back to the fuel cooler by the tank after that its stock.
The block does have the fuel temp sensor included. Since I live in Texas I want to make sure the fuel temps dont get super high.
It takes up a bit more space than I would of liked but I will be relocating the glow plug unit.
I may redesign the block to fit onto the side of the valve cover better.
I also drilled out the Driver side rail to .125 and the Pass side to .062
Wikid
Are you running a stroker or duals in the new motor?
1/2 pushlok hose work great.
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12mm stroker. I was thinking about pushlok hose too.
-10 could be done but you wont make it to the pump, fitting is too big, and it would be overkill. I was told by Exergy and multiple builders that -8 to the CP3 would be more than enough.
The inlet into the CP3 isnt even .300
The CP3 on my build is 12mm stroker from Exergy.
The inlet into the CP3 isnt even .300
The CP3 on my build is 12mm stroker from Exergy.
Another thing you could do if you just wanted to clean up the engine bay is get the fittings that connect to the factory hard lines using the AN to Fuel Disconnects fitting. then you could just run a -6 from their upto the CP3.
Then you could get a fuel return kit from DHD which replaces that block the fuel filter was tied to. then you could block off any ports you didnt want to use.
The biggest reason I did it was because I didnt like the old fuel bypass loop where the filter used to be and all the excess hard lines.
Right now I just have a braided line from the Pass side injectors returns to the return block. Once I can get time at work to build nice mount blocks I am going to change it out to a piece of hard line.