Major issues. HG blown AND injectors??

[Black_Cloud]

Hey guys, having issues with my LB7. Started hazing at idle so automatically knew injectors were bad. Haven't had balance rates checked yet, no way to except for the dealer. Original injectors with 225k so it was expected I suppose. Anyway, I went to fill my coolant tank this morning because my low coolant light came on, before doing so I gave my radiator hose a sqeeze and it was rock hard after sitting for 8+ hours in single digit temps. So, could the two be connected? (Hard hose because of injectors, white smoke because of HG, etc) or am I in for an expensive repair for doing both HGs and injectors? Thanks guys.

 

[clrussell]

It's possible you have an injector cup half way lifted.. Or just a bad rad cap.. If you take it and run the crap out of it does it blow coolant out the overflow?

 

[Black_Cloud]

Thanks for the input. Just walked out of Napa with a new cap, and a jug of coolant. Gonna fill it up and run it for a bit and see what it does, have to go on a 2 hour trip anyway. Will update with results.

 

[Black_Cloud]

Well, the new cap didn't seem to do anything. Hose is still hard after sitting. I also let the truck run for a bit with the cap off and noticed small bubbles at the bottom of the tank. Also, it does appear to be losing coolant, I can't keep the coolant level steady to save my life, weird thing is though, the overflow tube stays dry so I'm not 100% it's coming out of there? Is it pretty certain that the gaskets are bad or could it still be injector cups? I just don't want to spend any $ on things I don't need, money is tight right now. I guess the silver lining is the labor won't be much more if I have to do both at the same time.

 

[ArrBee]

Well, the new cap didn't seem to do anything. Hose is still hard after sitting. I also let the truck run for a bit with the cap off and noticed small bubbles at the bottom of the tank. Also, it does appear to be losing coolant, I can't keep the coolant level steady to save my life, weird thing is though, the overflow tube stays dry so I'm not 100% it's coming out of there? Is it pretty certain that the gaskets are bad or could it still be injector cups? I just don't want to spend any $ on things I don't need, money is tight right now. I guess the silver lining is the labor won't be much more if I have to do both at the same time.

You didn't reveal any of the truck's history, other than an approx odo reading.
If this is a "new to you" truck then there are many unknowns.
1) It seems to have been "topped off" with straight water, or you wouldn't have a frozen solid top hose.
2) If #1 above is true this has been going on for some time and you are obviously down to a very low concentration of anti freeze.
3) This may be PART or MOST of the reason that it was sold - maybe.

At that mileage it is quite possible that your water pump is gone/going.
As some of us (now, with 20/20 hindsight) know, if you are doing injectors it can be a good idea to do the water pump while the truck is apart.
Look for leaks just behind where the lower rad hose goes to the engine.
If you aren't familiar with the anatomy of Duramaxes it will seem STRANGE that the water pump is THERE and not immediately behind the fan with a belt drive.
Nope, it is gear driven from the rear and ONE of the studs that hold it in is hidden behind the harmonic balancer, so it is quite a strip job to get to and replace.
See other threads on water pump replacement, etc.
PART of the GOOD thing about doing these together is that once the fan is off and you have the valve covers removed you can do valve clearances, which you SHOULD at that mileage - easy to turn the engine over with the harmonic balance bolt and you can't get to that with the fan on.

I got a Gates pump and housing from Rock auto about a month ago for under $80 with shipping, so don't believe the older threads about water pumps costing several hundred $$s.
I don't have the number handy, but I posted it in one of the water pump threads.
EDIT:
Gates pump 42349BH
:END EDIT
It is a quiet pump, none of the noise that others have reported on other brand pumps.

Good luck.

EDIT: I had meant to say LOOSEN the harmonic balancer bolt and then tighten it back in LIGHTLY before getting too much else off.
I used the "bump the starter" method, which is probably frowned upon by some, but it worked.
After that I could disconnect the batteries and get to everything else.
With 20/20 hindsight I would probably do the water pump FIRST (assuming I knew it was bad BEFORE doing the injectors, I didn't know that).

 

[ArrBee]

BTW, injector replacement (here in Mass, but out from the big city) is in the $5,000 - $6,000 range at dealers' shops, a bit under $4,000 at small(er) time places.
Lincoln diesel service sells GOOD injector sets for $1750, if you add fuel lines another $550, you also need the install kit ($100 IIRC) and an $800 core deposit - so your outlay is likely around $3300 with shipping plus any tools you may want/need.
I added a return line for ~$65, which I didn't use.
Add $80 for a water pump if that is your coolant loss problem (likely).
So you will need some MONEEEeeeee for this whichever way you go, hopefully there is some elastic in your plastic.

This is a possibility for a week-end, a fairly long hard working week-end.
That you are getting a frozen top hose suggests that you don't have a heated garage to work in, so bundle up.
I was lucky, November in Mass is mild and the mosquitoes had left.
I didn't have to rush either, no need to use it for a 5 or 6 day week daily commute.

 

[Ne-max]

BTW, injector replacement (here in Mass, but out from the big city) is in the $5,000 - $6,000 range at dealers' shops, a bit under $4,000 at small(er) time places.
Lincoln diesel service sells GOOD injector sets for $1750, if you add fuel lines another $550, you also need the install kit ($100 IIRC) and an $800 core deposit - so your outlay is likely around $3300 with shipping plus any tools you may want/need.
I added a return line for ~$65, which I didn't use.
Add $80 for a water pump if that is your coolant loss problem (likely).
So you will need some MONEEEeeeee for this whichever way you go, hopefully there is some elastic in your plastic.

This is a possibility for a week-end, a fairly long hard working week-end.
That you are getting a frozen top hose suggests that you don't have a heated garage to work in, so bundle up.
I was lucky, November in Mass is mild and the mosquitoes had left.
I didn't have to rush either, no need to use it for a 5 or 6 day week daily commute.

You do NOT need the install kit.

 

[Awenta]

Yes... a hard upper radiator hose means it's frozen... :spit:

What does the haze smell like?


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[Slowmax]

Yes... a hard upper radiator hose means it's frozen... :spit:

What does the haze smell like?


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I have literally read that post, a few time's trying to figure out his logic on that one. :cool2:

 

[07keo02]

I would not jump ton the conclusion that you have injector issues. Does the haze smell like raw diesel or coolant? Start there.

 

[ArrBee]

You do NOT need the install kit.

For the sake of saving what ? 4% or so...
My TIME is worth more than that if I have to tear it apart again to find a leak.

Sure, reuse all the old seals and O rings.
Then do it all again WITH new seals and O-rings when it leaks like a strainer.

Not the way I do things, penny wise, etc.

Do it right or do it twice (2nd time ,,,THEN you'll do it right).

 

[Slowmax]

For the sake of saving what ? 4% or so...
My TIME is worth more than that if I have to tear it apart again to find a leak.

Sure, reuse all the old seals and O rings.
Then do it all again WITH new seals and O-rings when it leaks like a strainer.

Not the way I do things, penny wise, etc.

Do it right or do it twice (2nd time ,,,THEN you'll do it right).

Straight off of Lincoln Diesel Specialties, when you purchase a set of injector's from them. "We include the Injector Seal Kit FREE. (Copper Washers, O-rings and Return Line Banjo Seals) ". OP need's to perform a proper diagnosis, and report back with data. Then we can point him in the correct direction. :thumb:

 

[Awenta]

Straight off of Lincoln Diesel Specialties, when you purchase a set of injector's from them. "We include the Injector Seal Kit FREE. (Copper Washers, O-rings and Return Line Banjo Seals) ". OP need's to perform a proper diagnosis, and report back with data. Then we can point him in the correct direction. :thumb:

It's just a water pump :rofl: :spit:


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[ArrBee]

Straight off of Lincoln Diesel Specialties, when you purchase a set of injector's from them. "We include the Injector Seal Kit FREE. (Copper Washers, O-rings and Return Line Banjo Seals) ". OP need's to perform a proper diagnosis, and report back with data. Then we can point him in the correct direction. :thumb:

Yes, and what it DOESN'T call out specifically in that quote is the banjo seals at the ends of the return lines, or the ones at the FCM, or the lower valve cover seals.
i.e. they include ONLY the ones AT the injector within each injector package.
This is entirely appropriate, the seals required "per injector" are included with each injector - but NOT any others.
My lower valve cover seals were in fair shape, I could have re-used them but - again, for a small additional cost while it is all apart, why NOT do it right ?
I forget what else is in their "Master install kit" other than 16 orange O-rings (in case you pull out all 8 cups) and a couple of micro tubes of red lock-tite.

WRT getting a proper diagnosis;
See other threads on how to get balance rates without paying a dealer for a 1 hour minimum diagnosis time.
Torque plus (android ONLY, there is no ios version) app is one way, Scan Gauge II X-gauges is another.

The age and mileage supports the O/P's notion that injectors and water pump are due, probably PAST due.

 

[Awenta]

Did you come here to troll today?

You don't need to break the ficm or the outer return line seals to change the injectors. So why change them?


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[ArrBee]

How else do you get the FICM out of the way to get at the passenger side valve covers ?
I wanted to CHECK the return lines and CLEAN them, I couldn't do that by just taking out the banjo bolts to the injectors.
So , IMAO new seals are NEEDED for the FICM and ends of fuel return lines.
The alternative is to "go cheap" and reuse everything.

Not here to troll, just offering the O/P some tips to help understand what probably lays ahead.
I hadn't expected to have to defend my decisions and opinions against those who are here to nit pick my approach.
Sure, there are short cuts, mine is not the way of "Make do", although I believe in "reuse, return, recycle" as a principle.

Don't get me started on the question of ball end allen hex wrenches for the 46 5mm socket head bolts (-:
Those WILL burr them out.

 

[Awenta]

Take the clamps off the rubber hose and pull them off along with the ficm.


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[PureHybrid]

How else do you get the FICM out of the way to get at the passenger side valve covers ?
I wanted to CHECK the return lines and CLEAN them, I couldn't do that by just taking out the banjo bolts to the injectors.
So , IMAO new seals are NEEDED for the FICM and ends of fuel return lines.
The alternative is to "go cheap" and reuse everything.

Not here to troll, just offering the O/P some tips to help understand what probably lays ahead.
I hadn't expected to have to defend my decisions and opinions against those who are here to nit pick my approach.
Sure, there are short cuts, mine is not the way of "Make do", although I believe in "reuse, return, recycle" as a principle.

Don't get me started on the question of ball end allen hex wrenches for the 46 5mm socket head bolts (-:
Those WILL burr them out.

Speaking of nitpicking, it's "Reduce, reuse, recycle"

 

[ArrBee]

Take the clamps off the rubber hose and pull them off along with the ficm.


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On a 15 year old vehicle those hoses are probably weak, pulling them off would likely damage them enough to make reusing them VERY unwise.
If the philosophy is to AVOID using new seals, whatever the co$t in dollars and/or time, then sure, pull those hoses off.

Since the O/P hasn't posted again in a while I'm guessing {Yes, GUESSING} that it is laid up for the winter without a diagnosis.

 

[Awenta]

Thank you


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