LBZ: Coolant leak after head gasket

fjcruiser

New member
Aug 24, 2016
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Hello, Just tackled head gaskets on my plow truck. Everything went pretty smooth except now I have a small drip from between the head and block on the rear of the passenger head... I know i'll be pulling it again BUT, i was wondering if anyone had this happen before?

Heads were cleaned, pressure checked and decked.
New GM bolts, followed new torque specs exactly.
Block was cleaned with mineral spirits and razor blades.
New C grade gaskets and I did put the correct ones on each side lol

I ran it for 15 minutes and noticed a small puddle and i doubt it's just gonna seal up on its own..

My best guess was maybe the edges of the crusty old block interfered with the new (seemingly different) gasket edges?


Thanks in Advance .
 

clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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Id clean very well before I pulled it back off.. And check egr/ heater connection on firewall
 

fjcruiser

New member
Aug 24, 2016
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Forgot to add EGR is deleted and I used a mirror to pinpoint it coming right from headgasket :(

I was careful and thought I had cleaned it thoroughly
 

830king

Member
Oct 24, 2013
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Central MN
Cleaning the block with a razor blade? I would think that would be real easy to nick the gasket surface.... that's just my opinion! I thought everyone used sandpaper on a block lubed with wd-40?

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Ne-max

I like turtles
Nov 15, 2011
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Cleaning the block with a razor blade? I would think that would be real easy to nick the gasket surface.... that's just my opinion! I thought everyone used sandpaper on a block lubed with wd-40?

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Never use sand paper
 

830king

Member
Oct 24, 2013
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Central MN
Never use sand paper
The gm procedure used to be 600 (I think) grit sandpaper and a straight block and wd-40, and do not take down to mirror finish. Maybe it changed....maybe I was misinformed? Maybe I'm just crazy and got confused with something else...lol

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fjcruiser

New member
Aug 24, 2016
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I used quite a few razors in a scraper and wd40 and then wiped it down with mineral spirits and then cleaned with brake Kleen. I'll pull it tomorrow and hopefully find where I went wrong I ran it more tonight and it starts puddling pretty quickly.

Such a shame, it fired up easily and ran so smooth I thought I had done a great job till this !
 

830king

Member
Oct 24, 2013
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Central MN
I used quite a few razors in a scraper and wd40 and then wiped it down with mineral spirits and then cleaned with brake Kleen. I'll pull it tomorrow and hopefully find where I went wrong I ran it more tonight and it starts puddling pretty quickly.

Such a shame, it fired up easily and ran so smooth I thought I had done a great job till this !
That sucks man. Hopefully you have better luck this time.

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duramaxnate

Professional Amateur
Feb 18, 2014
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www.mcfooracing.com
Just out of curiosity.. Did you clean out the bolt holes real good before installing studs? I had a couple of people forget to clean one hole out and the bolt appeared to be tight but hydro-locked with oil. When pulled back apart one stud was loose and the bolt hole was full of oil.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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Are you sure its not a leaking coolant line to the turbo? I have seen this and its seeps down and around the gasket and damn sure looks like it is coming from the head gasket.
 

fjcruiser

New member
Aug 24, 2016
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Just out of curiosity.. Did you clean out the bolt holes real good before installing studs? I had a couple of people forget to clean one hole out and the bolt appeared to be tight but hydro-locked with oil. When pulled back apart one stud was loose and the bolt hole was full of oil.


Yes I rigged up a small hose to my shop vac and suctioned each hole out I was worried about hydro locking a bolt.

I wish it was the turbo coolant line but the valley is dry and I can see it seeping out right at the side above starter.

I did find a TSB for the "Special Cleaning" procedure when using the new style head gaskets so it seems this is my fault for not cleaning it more rigorously.
Thanks
 

fjcruiser

New member
Aug 24, 2016
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Special Cleaning Requirements
For 2001-2006 vehicles produced with the first generation head gasket, special attention must be given to the cleaning of the engine block and cylinder head surfaces when servicing with a second generation gasket. The crimped areas (1) on the first generation gasket may, over time, allow corrosion buildup where they contact the block and cylinder head surfaces. The second generation gasket has raised ribs that seal at these crimped areas (1). A special cleaning procedure is required to ensure proper sealing.
Cleaning Procedure
1. Remove the old head gasket using service manual procedures. Save the gasket for reference until the repair is completed. 2. Place clean rags in the cylinder bores and pushrod openings in order to keep out debris. 3. Use the J-28410 or equivalent to carefully clean the gasket sealing surface of large sealing or corrosion matter. When scraping, take care not to scratch or gouge the metal surfaces. Do not push the debris into oil, coolant, and combustion openings or bolt holes. 4. Inspect the gasket sealing surfaces for corrosion, especially in the areas that were in contact with the crimped tabs of the first generation head gasket. If corrosion is present, continue with the rest of the steps in this procedure for proper cleaning. If the sealing surface is sufficiently clean and smooth, use the revised torque specification listed towards the end of this bulletin and continue with published service manual procedures to complete the repair. 5. For surfaces that have corrosion or pitting, wrap a piece of flat steel (4"x 2" or larger) with 600 grit wet grade sand paper. Using Moisture Displacing Lubricant, P/N 88862629 (in Canada, use 89020803) or equivalent, wet sand the block surface to remove any remaining gasket material or corrosion. Do not use any paper coarser than 600 grit.
Notice
- Do not use any power type sanding devices. - Do not use a wire brush or wheel to clean gasket surfaces. - Do not use chemical cleaning agents on gasket surfaces.
6. Take care to keep the sanding block parallel to the block surface and evenly sand the sealing surface. Some areas of corrosion will still show a stain. Do not attempt to wet sand these areas down to a shiny metal surface. 7. Change the sanding paper when it becomes clogged. Carefully and frequently wipe the surface, using a clean cloth each time, to prevent sanding debris from building up and contaminating the oil and coolant cavities. 8. Clean the bolt threads and holes and remove the rags from the bore cavities and pushrod openings. 9. Repeat the above cleaning procedure on the cylinder head gasket surface. 10. Clean the engine block and cylinder head gasket surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner, P/N 88862650 (in Canada, use 88901247) or equivalent, to remove any traces of oil or debris. 11. Using the revised head bolt torque specification below, reassemble the engine with NEW M12 cylinder head bolts according to service manual procedures.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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NE Oregon
All I do when doing head gaskets is a wire cup lighly on a 4" grinder and it works great. done a couple dozen sets and no issues. and have the heads surfaced.