There aren't a lot of things in our duramax trucks that we can say it easy and doesn't take long. Especially considering the fuel system components, like the cp3, fpr, or the lb7 injectors. But I found a much easier way of doing the fpr on these trucks that have cp3 pumps that shaved time and aggravation off when I replace the fpr so I'm gonna put it out there for guys that struggle or don't know how.
1/4 inch drive ratchet behind two 1/4 u joints back to back and a Allen head socket. Or if you still have torx bits a torx head attachment, I changed mine out on the weekend since allen's have a deeper shank and bit better. The first u joint gets around the flared plastic end of the fpr and the second lines up on the bit. Use u joints from Lowe's cause they have a good amount of resistance or you can do a couple wraps of electrical tape. Tie a piece of string or tie wire on the socket/ujoint where it connects so you can move it around and boom. Took less then ten minutes to get the bolts out.
Most time consuming part was the actual turbo inlet but I have a profab from rick so that took 20 minutes.
If someone need it I can do a fast write up on it
2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Yellow Top Optimas, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.
1/4 inch drive ratchet behind two 1/4 u joints back to back and a Allen head socket. Or if you still have torx bits a torx head attachment, I changed mine out on the weekend since allen's have a deeper shank and bit better. The first u joint gets around the flared plastic end of the fpr and the second lines up on the bit. Use u joints from Lowe's cause they have a good amount of resistance or you can do a couple wraps of electrical tape. Tie a piece of string or tie wire on the socket/ujoint where it connects so you can move it around and boom. Took less then ten minutes to get the bolts out.
Most time consuming part was the actual turbo inlet but I have a profab from rick so that took 20 minutes.
If someone need it I can do a fast write up on it
2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Yellow Top Optimas, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.