Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #76  
Old 03-04-2017, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lawnboy01 View Post
I want to explain some info about my cast iron heads as I may have confused some.
1. They are solid, no water ports
2. They have the mildest port work Wagler offers
3. 34 mm intake 35mm exhaust valve

Solid heads are not for everyone. No, you're not going to run them on your street truck. I chose iron heads for reliability. We cracked two stock heads this season. So now we will be solid block and solid heads.

I'm only 20 over on bore. So I couldn't get the biggest valves available. So can flow numbers go up on the Wagler head? Yes, more flow just with bigger valves.

Port work. I have the mildest port work done. So could flow be increased with the ports opened way up? Yes, they would flow way more.

I've been getting some messages about how my heads don't flow much better than the Stock ported Socal head. Waste of money, right? NO! If I wanted more flow it would be easy. Bore the motor out and put bigger valves in and have Wagler extreme port them. Then I would a lot more flow. But remember flow doesn't = power!! I can only run a 3.0 smooth bore charger. So keep that in mind. Still not convinced that I didn't make a good choice in heads? Reliability! A maxed out stock head will not hold up in my opinion. Lots of cracked heads out there. Again, not bashing anyone's product. Stock heads that have been ported will work great on street trucks. No so great for my application. I will put money on the table that I will not crack a head this year with solid cast iron heads.

Now as far as the rumors of other heads coming out. There may be. I'll believe it when I see it. I needed heads now. So I feel I made a made the best choice in heads on the market. They are a great looking piece. Flow more air than anything I've ever owned. Should be way more reliable. And an important one for me, PPL legal


I imagine you will get a few years use out of them. For what you do that us the best option out there right now.


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  #77  
Old 03-04-2017, 01:57 PM
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I imagine you will get a few years use out of them. For what you do that us the best option out there right now.


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I would say the heads will easily outlast rest of the engine
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  #78  
Old 04-04-2017, 10:31 AM
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Did you run just wet heads last year and dry block? Or water in Block too?
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  #79  
Old 04-04-2017, 12:33 PM
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I ran wet heads on a dry block
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  #80  
Old 04-04-2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lawnboy01 View Post
I ran wet heads on a dry block
Ok, I am in the works with Freedom Racing Engines on putting together a .100" over, internally balanced, filled shortblock...but will not be able to purchase Wagler heads to go with it...so I will most likely be using my ported LLY heads on the shortblock and running coolant thru them.

Thanks
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  #81  
Old 04-04-2017, 01:12 PM
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I ran water from end to end. Not ideal but it worked
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  #82  
Old 04-04-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket View Post
Ok, I am in the works with Freedom Racing Engines on putting together a .100" over, internally balanced, filled shortblock...but will not be able to purchase Wagler heads to go with it...so I will most likely be using my ported LLY heads on the shortblock and running coolant thru them.

Thanks
I'm very happy your short block is in the works now.
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  #83  
Old 02-01-2018, 08:07 AM
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Just an update on the Wagler cast iron heads. After a full season on them, everything checked out. Sent them back to Waglers for inspection. Valve seats were in excellent condition. Surface of the head still flat, No warpage. All in all, a clean bill of health.
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  #84  
Old 02-01-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 04jimc View Post
Attachment 45258

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I guess I could give an update on ours too. After 2 seasons on our solid aluminum with ductile iron inserts, they are still flat. But we experienced an injector sealing issue this season that would surface after each pull, only at the 1500+hp power level class we dabble in, though. At limited pro stock power levels, never had an issue. Once cooled back down it would reseal. It was like the slightest copper washer leak u can imagine. I jerked them off right away in Nov to get them checked and we found that the injector 'pads' that the copper washer sits on are driving down thru the iron insert. I immediately contacted Jeremy and he said they have a fix for that issue. They have a new insert that replaces that aluminum pad with ductile iron.

Just some background on them, we basically got the first set from the new foundry but also the last set of aluminum sold to a puller. If we had waited another month or two we would have ended up with iron ones like Mike. But no big complaints yet, really.

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  #85  
Old 02-01-2018, 09:01 AM
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Do me a favor. Don’t say “ I jerked them off” anymore
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  #86  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:21 AM
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Do me a favor. Don’t say “ I jerked them off” anymore
LOL, but all the cool kids are doing it!
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  #87  
Old 02-27-2018, 05:59 AM
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New iron inserts for the injector pad & bore

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  #88  
Old 02-27-2018, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by diesel-max View Post
If d-bag browning is involved its bound to be fake, someone getting screwed or copied.

I thought this post might have been cool as soon as i seen dts i knew it was worthless.
So true!!
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  #89  
Old 02-27-2018, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Duramax racer 8 View Post
So true!!
I’m by no means a nut swinger for any diesel shop. But if you feel there is no useful information in this thread then by all means see your way out of it. This is for people that are trying to keep a Duramax alive while sled pulling.
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Last edited by lawnboy01; 02-27-2018 at 09:31 AM.
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  #90  
Old 02-27-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Duramax racer 8 View Post
So true!!
we are not here to beat a dead horse.

If people would like to compare factual information like charts and so on with lawnboy, i see no issue with that. there is no reason we cant be civil if lawnboy is. if you come in with crap like above or short statements, your post wont last. give something to back up what you are stating and discuss like adults.
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