Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 04-09-2018, 05:31 PM
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Merchant also sells HD return line bolts for the injector side. factory bolts are a 5mm Allen head and don’t have much head on them to grab. Can be a beeyotch to get torqued or even right sometimes. Merchants HD bolts have twice the head to dang near eliminate stripping. Plus, more likely to be able to reuse. Pull your valve cover and the return lines. If you don’t see a crack then replace your banjo seals, bolts, and probably a good idea to get new head side bolts as well for insurance. They’re cheap. Torque to spec and put it together. I’d recommend cycling some oil in it. Fill it, run it for a short period to warm up, and drain. Rotella Dino oil is cheap and is good. Maybe someone else will chime in if that’s not a good idea. Just could probably use a good flush.
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  #32  
Old 04-09-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBZ View Post
If it's a bad enough leak you should be able to see it. It's common for the return lines to crack and the seals to leak. It might even be as simple as a loose injector supply or return line fitting.

I attached a couple of pics of the return line and banjo bolt. There are also seals that go on there. There are lots of vendors on here and across the interweb to choose from.

I wouldn't run it any more than you need to till you fix it. As far as the oil leak, your rods were swimming so I wouldn't worry to much about that at this point because if your oil pressure doesn't come back your probably going to need a motor rebuild anyways.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
Merchant also sells HD return line bolts for the injector side. factory bolts are a 5mm Allen head and donít have much head on them to grab. Can be a beeyotch to get torqued or even right sometimes. Merchants HD bolts have twice the head to dang near eliminate stripping. Plus, more likely to be able to reuse. Pull your valve cover and the return lines. If you donít see a crack then replace your banjo seals, bolts, and probably a good idea to get new head side bolts as well for insurance. Theyíre cheap. Torque to spec and put it together. Iíd recommend cycling some oil in it. Fill it, run it for a short period to warm up, and drain. Rotella Dino oil is cheap and is good. Maybe someone else will chime in if thatís not a good idea. Just could probably use a good flush.
Thanks for the tips.

I'll probably change the oil and filters 2 or 3 times.... if everything is ok.
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2018, 06:55 PM
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Glad you found the culprit. Make sure your surgical clean on disassembly and reassembly and you'll be fine the lb7s are finicky
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2018, 06:57 PM
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Check your local laws, because you bought it from a used car dealer they may have to fix it. Here in California any dealer has to give a 30 day (? Mile) warranty on everything they sell. Even if they sell it as is.
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  #35  
Old 04-09-2018, 07:00 PM
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Good call Chris Perry if the law stands I'd go back and fight them to fix it or refund
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2002 Chevy 2500HD LB7 Duramax Summit White CCSB Grey (neutral) leather LT3 pkg OEM bra 4x4, Kennedy Twin Pump Filter Combo Kit, ISSPRO EV, PPE Boost Valve, DTS Built Allison, MikeL Cooler, ATS Billet Flexplate, DTS 3in DS IC pipe, Bill's 5in CAI (White), Big K&N, 4in to 7in black stack, Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC 315/75/16 on stock rims, Cognito P&I Brace kit, Sleeves, Energy Sway bar Kit, DD/Puller/Work truck



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  #36  
Old 04-09-2018, 07:28 PM
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I did sign the "sold as-is" waiver.... I dont know anything about PA laws for that kind of stuff. Anyone how how to look that up?
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  #37  
Old 04-09-2018, 07:41 PM
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I did a quick Google search, it says to give the state Bureau of Consumer Protection a call at +1-800-441-2555. the website said even if the vehicle was sold as is with no warranty, that if a problem that the dealer should have known about, was not disclosed to you they can be held responsible for the repair.
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7-6-17...New headgaskets, studs, Fed heads, and LDS replacement injectors @ 202,239 Miles
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  #38  
Old 04-09-2018, 08:17 PM
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Iíd say they 100% new about the issues. Brand new oil and filter along with no codes. You drove it for how long and had 5+ gallons of fuel and oil drained and multiple codes. Pretty shady if you ask me. Good luck
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  #39  
Old 04-11-2018, 10:44 PM
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Well, 4 different oil filters wrenches and 100 ft/lbs later, I finally got the oil filter off.
Finally got the fuel filter off too, except the wires for the water sensor broke off... where can I get another one??
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  #40  
Old 04-12-2018, 03:31 AM
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Just leave em off. Youíll be fine
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  #41  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:38 AM
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The wires for the plug at the bottom of the fuel filter?? Wont the engine go into limp mode incase there's water in the fuel?
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  #42  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MolonLabe420 View Post
The wires for the plug at the bottom of the fuel filter?? Wont the engine go into limp mode incase there's water in the fuel?
No.
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  #43  
Old 04-12-2018, 06:21 AM
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So if I put the sensor back in to plug the hole, It will run fine? Where do I get another one at? Is that an Autozone part or a dealership only part?

Do you think my truck is safe to start? is there anything else I should do or check before I put oil back in and start it up??

I dont think anyone answered this question for me earlier.... whats the easiest way to put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the engine?
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  #44  
Old 04-12-2018, 07:15 AM
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Just google "mechanical gauge port lb7" there's a lot of threads on it already.

Just put the oil in it and start it. Pressure will be back up until the crankcase fills up again. Theres a lot of good comments on this thread how to check for leaks.

You do know you have to prime that filter? If you don't know how. Google
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  #45  
Old 04-12-2018, 07:18 AM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...rese2-_-dorman

You can buy a sensor anywhere, it's not a dealer part. Your fine without it, it won't change how it runs one way or the other. Mines been off for a couple years.
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