S&B oiled has never steered me wrong and I ran some really gross dusty oilfield roads with it. Oil it properly and run a sock and it worked good for me.
You can buy center hand cranks to you know! But my last RV my power for the jack came from my trailer plug so I could move it with no batteries in it when I put it in storage.
But if it’s going to interfere with your tailgate……then I guess not ideal.
Scored the other day and found a guy selling a new in the box still AFE CAI For $200!
Replaced my stock air box with it today-gained 5 psi of boost ?
Stock filter was a bit dirty but not that bad I didn’t think.
Got an FPR enroute and old one out. Gonna clean all the soot and dirt out of everything and windmill it back together and see what happens.
I believe buddy does have access to both another ECM and TCM.
By the looks of the hitch it’s already setup for a center rv style jack. Could even splurge and put an electric one on and ditch the peasant hand crank.
I tried tapping the cruise switch but nothing happened. Not 100% but I don’t believe the idle up will work with an engine code active.
TBH I was leaning towards a stuck FPR myself. It was the 64mA that was throwing me for a loop. Also when I tinned it to the 2000 rpm IIRC the fuel pressure did...
Have a look at the screenshot I posted above. It has everything in it. That was at an idle. But yes 64 desired and actual for mA, but rail at 5800ish desired but actual double that. Seems weird. The mA thing is what’s throwing me. I’m missing something basic here…..
Further questions to that if it doesn’t respond, Means it’s locked in limp mode or just doesn’t have communication with the FPR maybe? Both?
Is table B1016 supposed to be the current it max’s at in limp mode?
If so In my old stock LBZ tune it’s at 400 mA. In this truck it’s currently at 64mA...
Buddy is getting a P088 code on his stock ‘06 LBZ EC dually.
Hooked up his scan tool and his actual FRP is around 12k kpa, desired is around 6k kpa at idle where you want it.
FPR is at 64mA desired and actual, % was at 40% and no matter what you do with the pedal it doesn’t change and only...
Sure. Just curious why you still use the 4.54? If you change your vehicle to mpg it’s going to use the US measurement anyways.
Liters per 100 means nothing if you don’t know exactly how many liters you have in the tank. Super dumb.
I always use US MPG as I’m nowhere near old enough to remember Canadian mpg when people actively used it and the only place on this continent you’re gonna buy a gal of fuel is in the US so……lol!
Last time I hand calculated mine I was .5 mpg lower than the DIC. I can live with that. Changed some...